Birth and Journey of Vitasta – mother river of Kashmir

Guest post by Late Manmohan Munshi ji detailing the story of Vitasta river. He had shared it with me a decade back and wanted me to publish it by adding detailed maps, images and illustrations. It was quite a task, I wasn’t sure if I could do it and then I forgot about it, but I think the work is finally complete. Manmohan Munshi ji passed away last year.

According to Nilmatpurana it was Sati daughter of Himal Parvata consort of Shiva who was called Uma in Vaisvara Antra and is the same goddess as Vitasta and the same is Kasmira. The Goddess Vitasta is verily the holy river remover of all sins. People who offer their bodies to, or die within its water in their bellies reach heaven without any hindrance. Those persons who take bath in Vitasta do not see even in dreams the tortures of Hell. Vitasta gives protection with her hands to the evil doing sinners falling into the hell. Fire of hell is pacified with cool outpourings of the drops sent from the waves of Vitas carried by the wind,. A person merely listening to the glory of Vitasta goes free from sins. The only thing that Ganga has more that of Vitasta are the heaps of bones of human beings all other things are equal. The river draining the entire Kashmir Valley called by Kashmiris as “Vyath” is the direct derivative of the original Sanskrit name Vitasta. The intermediary Prakit from Vidasta was altered by Greeks to Hydaspes. Vitasta is also mentioned in the river names of Rigveda. In Vayupurana, Vitasta has been referred as Biloda and Wular Lake as Bilodia situated south of Dumra Lohita ( Nanga Parbat)- The king of mountains. The present name Jhelum River has been adopted from the city of Jhelum besides which it flows in Pakistan . The name was brought to Kashmir by European travelers and found its way in official use otherwise the river is still known to the natives as Vyath.

The river Vitasta can be considered to have formed at the confluence of [i]Harspatha(Arapat), [ii] Bringa (bring) and [iii] Sandran[older name not known]. But the old holy scriptures have traced the origin of Vitasta to a more specific source. As already stated in Nilmata Purana, Harcaritacintamani and subsequently quoted in latter references Vitasta is a manifestation of goddess Parvati. After Satisar(Parvati’s lake ) was drained of its water and demon Jalodbava destroyed by Vishnu, Brahma and Maheshvara, at the request of sage Kasyapa Maheshvara persuaded Parvati to show herself in Kashmir in the form of a river to purify the Manavs (humans) from the unholy contact of Pisachas . The goddess assumed the form of an underground river and asked Shiva to make an opening by which she could come to the surface in the form of a river. Shiva by striking the ground with his trisul on 13th of Badra Shuakula Paksha from which the river gushed forth receiving the name of Vitasta, after the measure of the ditch of one Vitasti. Since then the birthday of Vitasta is celebrated on on 13th Badra Shakula Paksha. The spring from where the goddess flowed in river form became known by several names Nilanaga (Abode of Nila), Nila Kunda, Sulaghata(Trisul thrust) or simply Vitasta. The name of Varnag /Veri nag seems to have adopted at a latter stage probably after the administrative unit of Var Pargana. It is said that Vitasta disappeared from fear of defilement from the contact of Sinful men but reappeared second time by the prayers of Kasyapa at Panchasta (Panzath) in Devsar Pargana., disappeared again and reappeared at Narasima. The Goddess was finally induced to stay permanently when Kasyapa secured for her the company of Lakshmi in the form of Visoka (Vesheu) and Ganga in the form Sindhu(Sind River) [not to be confused with Indus. Sachi consort of Indra as Haraspatha(Arpat), Aditi the mother of the gods as Trikoti [probably Sandran] and Ditti as [Chandravati] mother of Datiyas [close to verinag, probably Bring]. According to another legend Vitasta made her second appearance at Vitastatra (Vethvatur) close to Verinag. Clear mention of Nilanaga (Verinag) as the birth place of Vitasta by Kalhana leaves no doubt about the tradition prevailing in his time.

The rivulet of Bring is fed by springs of Trisandhya, Ardanarisvsra, and Kapartesvara(Koter). Akasvala(Achibal) feed the Harspatha (Arpat). Lidari which derives its waters from the glaciers of Koenjar and Gashbrar (Kolahoi glacier), Lakes of Shushramnaga (Sheeshnag), Tarsar, and springs of Machbawan(Matan) and other sources joins the Vitasta slightly down stream of Anantnag and flows in a single channel except in Srinagar City. In its north westerly course between Anantnag and Baramulla a distance of about 90 Kilometers , the river bed falls slightly less than seven meters in elevation. Islands if any are sandy and temporary except the one at the present Vitasta-Sindhusamgama near Shadipur which was artificially built.

The most conspicuous meander of the river is located immediately south of Gopadri (Shankracharya hill) round the flood prone locality of Shivpura. The course of Vitasta has not changed during the historic times except at the Vitasta-Sindhusamgama where it was altered by Suyya the able engineer of King Avantivarman in the 9th century.Between Mahpadamsaras (Wular Lake) and Huskapura (Uskar) Vitasta flows in a south westerly direction and beyond Uskar in a west-noth-westrly direction upto Muzafrabad Kohala aree where it is joined by Krashna (Kishenganga)river. At Wular and Muzafrabad Vitasta abruptly makes south westerly due to the Synataxial bend of the western Himalayas in common with other rivers of the region. Downstream of Anantnag is located Vijayeksetra,(modern Vijbror) one of the holiest sires where temples of Shiva, Vajesvara, Vishnochakradara Ashokvehara and numerous viharas and agarharas and a university of learning [where students- scolars from countries beyond Kasmira used to come for study of Shastras, astronomy astrology and other subjects]once flourished.

United waters of(i) Visoka (Vesheu) issuing from Kramasaras (KonsarNag) also known as VishnuPad near the tirtha of Naubandana where Vishnu, Brahma and Mashevara took positions to destroy the demon Jalodbhava and (ii)Ramanatvi (Rembyar)originating near Bhab and Nandan sars join the Vitasta along the left bank as Gambhira (the deep) at Gambhira Samgama (Sangum) below Vijbror where king Chandrapida built a Vishnu temple Gamirsvamin of which no trace is left now A few kilometers downstream of Sangum Vitasta is joined by a relatively smaller stream Chaturvedi (Narastan nala ) Below the confluence of this stream King Awantivarman founded his capital at Awantipura and built two temples Avantisvamin and Avantisvara dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva respectively. Both of these and like other temples of the valley Were vandalized by by Skindar butshikan at the end of 14 th Century. The ruins at present are testimonies to their former glory. Some of the carved stones from these temples have been used in foundation and plinth of nearby Muslim Ziarats.

Further downstream Vitasta is joined along the left bank by Ramshu (Ramu or Kakpor Kol) rising in the Pantsal mountains by the side of the forgotten temple of Gangodbheda or Bhedagiri(Badbrar) one of the few Sarasvati temples of Kashmir. At the present village of Kakpor ruins of an old temple believed by some authorities of the time of King Khagendra the founder of Khagendapura (Kakpor) and by others as remains of the Utplasvamin, a Vishnu temple built by Utpla an uncle of King Cippatajayapida . In case the former identification is correct the ruins can be one of the oldest in Kashmir, if the latter is correct can be of the ninth century . Just opposite Kakpor on the right bank of the river is the saffron karewah and small township to Lalitpura(Letpur) founded by architect of Laltaditya. North of Lalitpur in former Viha Pargana a number of ruins of old Hindu temples at Barsu, Ladhu, Balhom some converted to Muslim Ziarats can be traced even today. The Vishnu temple of Padmasvamin built by Padma another uncle of King Cippatajayapida at Padmapura (Pampore) is also now in ruins. Stones from its ruins have been used in the construction of Muslim Ziarats.. Another Vishnu temple by the name of Samarasvamin on the left bank of the river opposite Panduchak was built by Samara a minister of King Avantivarman of which no trace is seen now. Close to Panduchak in Viha pargana is the Tirtha of Takshakanaga at Jeyyavana (Zewan ) and is visited by devotees even today especially at the time of solar eclipses .Further downstream is the temple of Merudasvamin built by Meruda a minister of King Partha.

It is believed that the City of Srinagari (Srinagar) capital of Kasmira was founded by Emperor Ashoka At Pandrethan – the present cantonment of Badami Bagh when Pravarasena ii shifted the capital to Pravapura [the high ground between Kasurikabla(Khodbal) and Harparvata(Hariparbat) the old capital came to be known as Puranadisthana. The ruins of other Hindu temples around Pandrethan were seen till beginning of early twentieth century About two Kilometers north of Puranadisthana is the hill of Gopdari also known as Jeyesthirudrarodrakhyparvata (Shankracharia Hill) top of which stands the temple of Jyestherudra (Shankrcharya temple) believed to have been originally built by Jaluka of which only the outer plinth remains. King Gopadiya rebuilt the temple at a later date and also viharas of Guphra (Gupkar). The temple was repaired again by King Zainulabdin the pious muislim ruler of Kashmir in 15th Century and also by Dogra rulers of Kashmir since early 20th century since then it is looked after by the Dharmarth trust. It is believed that the temple was approachable by a stone staircase from Sudhkshikheta (Shurayar). The stone steps were removed and built into Pathar Masjid o0jn the left bank of the river near Mujahid Manzil during the 17 th century by Noor Jehan ,queen of Emperor Jahangir.

Vitasta is joined by along its right bank by Mari or Mahasirat(Tsuntkol) issuing from Jeyarudrasaras (Dal Lake) at Marisamgama which was considered as a holy Tirtha in ancient times . The island formed between Vitasta Tsuntkol and latter’s southerly flowing branch was known by the name of Maksvamin and had a Vishnu temple by the same name of which no trace is left today. Opposite the Marisamgama on the left bank of Vitasta Kippitiska or Kutkulia (Kutkol) leaves the Vitasta and after flowing in a north westerly direction bifurcates into two the right one falls back into Vitasta above Safakadal and and the left one joins Duddhaganga (Dudganga or Chat Kol) which also falls into Vitasta near Chatabal. The area between Vitasta and Kutkolia was known by the name of Katol. It is not very clear if the Kutkolia is a natural channel or manmade. It may have been build by Hindu Rulers as a defense moat after Srinagar started spreading along the left bank of Vitasta.

Below the Marisamgama at the present Malyar Ghat stood the temple of Vardamanesa of which nothing is left today . A Linga serving as lamp post in a nearby Mosque believed to be from the original Vardamanesa temple was removed and installed in Malyar Temple in 1818. Immediately below Habakadal Bridge on the right bank is the Somyar temple, site of the ancient Somatirtha . Similarly situated on the left bank is Purushyar the site of ancient temple of SadaSiva. Between Haba Kadal and Fatehkadal on the right bank of Vitasta is the locality of Narparistan near Malikangan, stood the temple of Naresheri which was converted into a Ziarat during the muslim rule. Further downstream between Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal also along the same bank was bank was located the temple of Kalisheri which was destroyed and rebuilt as ziarat of Shah Hamdan by Sikandar Butshikan. The oldest bridge over the Vitasta in the City was known as Mahasetu it was a boat bridge like a modern poonton bridge which could be removed during emergencies like war etc. At the location of the Mahasetu Zainulabdin built the first permanent timber bridge across the Vitasta in 15 th century which came to be known as Zaina Kadal and other muslim rulers followed by building a number of timber bridges in the city and elsewhere across the Vitasta. Again on the right bank of the river betwen Zainakadal and Alikadal is the tomb of the queen of Sikandar Buthshikan and burial place for other muslim rulers known as Mazar Salatin. The Tomb which is built entirely of bricks very similar in architecture to the tomb of Bibi Jawandi at Uchchh Sharif near Multan in Pakistan. Its foundations & embankments on the riverside and material used in the surrounding walls betray it to be site of an ancient Hindu temple.

Further downstream on the same bank of the river almost touching the bridge is the Ziarat of Wyusi sahaib which also due to its foundations,embankments and the entrance appears to be site of an original Hindu temple. Nothing is known about the antiquity of these two temples/shrines. Near the locality of Chatabal confluence of Dudhaganga (Dudganga or Chata Kol) [issuing from the Pantsal Mountains] with Vitasta was the site Tirtha of Dudhagangasamgama now completely forgotten. The other temples and hindu shrines, namely Hanuman Mandir, Ghadadhar Kharyar,Malyar Raghunath temple are relatively of recent construction. However it is possible that a few of these temples like Ganpatyar were rebuilt at ancient sites.

Between Srinagar and Shadipur the Vitasta is not joined by any major tributary except the Sukhnag along the left bank. The Sindhu(Sind river) rising from the Great Himalaya Range south east of Amreshvara ( Amarnathji Cave) joined by glacier fed streams of Panjtarangini (Panjtarni), Amurveth(Amravati), Nehnar etc, outflows of of the lakes of Utrasaras or Utraganga(Gangabal), Koladuga,(Nandkol) springs of Sodara (Naranag) uniting into Kankavahini (krenk nadi) flowing in Nandiksetra at the foot of Harmukh mountains by the sides of Buthesvara, Jyesterudra, Ciramokana, at Kankpura (Kangan) used to meet Vitasta at Vitasta-Sindhu Samgama till the ninth century. Immediately west of the gap of Badrakhel nala between the Vudars (karewas) of Parihaspura (Paraspur) and Trigami (Trigom) close to the sites of ruined temples Vishunosvamin, Vinayaswamin about 5 Kms south west of the present confluence at Sundribavana (Naran bagh) near Parihaspura was founded by Lalitaditya as his capital which according to Kalhana excelled heaven. Lalitaditya whom Kalhana has called “Indra of the earth “ built numerous other temples Parihaskesva with the image ofVishnu in silver pearls, Mukhtakesva with golden image of Vishnu, Mahavara with Vishn’s image in golden armour. And silver image of Goverdandhara, Bradbuddha numerous viharas ,agarharas and palaces. Even his queen Kamlavati built Kamlahatta with silver image of Kamalakesva. One of Lalitaditya ‘s ministers Mitrasarmamn installed the Shivlinga of Mitresvara. Needless to say that the site of the capital Parihaspura and numerous temples was apparently chosen for proximity to Vitasta-sindhusamgama, the former being regarded as manifestation of Yamuna and the latter that of Ganga. Suyya the able engineer of King Avantivarman by his expertise shifted the location of Vitasta-Sindhu Samgama from Parihaspura to the vicinity of Sundribhavana by forcing the course of Vitasta north eastwards by construction of embankments to reclaim cultivable land fromfrom Nambals (marshes) and flood prone areas. A Vishnu temple by the name of Yogasvamin was also built by Suyya at Sundribhavana at the instance of King Avativarman. The material from the ruins of the said temple seem to have used for building of the solid masonry walls of the island with a solitary chinar tree at the present confluence [referred as Prayaga in the Vitasta Mahatmaya ] at a latter date.

Beyond the Sangama, Vitasta continues to flow north west wards by the side of Vaskur village [Rupbhawani’s shrine) and receives the outflow of Manasaras (Manasbal Lake) at Sumbal, and after passing Jayapura (Indrakoot) enters the Mahapadmasaras (Wular lake). The ruins of the ancient buildings and temples at Jayapura founded by King Jayapida on an island like raised ground among the nambals (marshes) south of Sumbhal were seen up o the middle of 20th century. King Jayapida also built the castle of Bayokota on the peninsulalike ridge Dwarpati with three images of Buddah and a temple of Jaya devi. According to Kalhana inner town of the castle excelled heaven in beauty. According to an ancient legend the site of Mahapadamsars was occupied by a wicked Naga Sadangula who was exiled by the Naga king Nila to Darvisara . The site left dry was occupied by the township of Chandrapura ruled by the king Visvagavas.. Mahapadma Naga in the disguise of a Brahman approached Visvagavas and after securing the king’s permission to reside in the city appeared in his true form with the result that the king and his subjects had to migrate westwards to a new town of Visvagaspura.

At present Vitasta enters Mahapadamsars (Wular lake) at the north eastern corner and leaves it at the south western corner near Suyyapura (sopore). A glance from a high mound will show that a peninsula like ridge projects into the lake . Due to continuous deposition of silts from Vitasta along the eastern side of the lake has resulted in turning the eastern side of the lake into marshes and swamps and shrinkage of the clear water area of the lake. Similar silting relatively on a smaller scale going along its northern fringes of the lake by Madhumati stream (Bandpur Nala). It can also be summarized from the fact that waters of Vitasta are silty at the inflow (especially during rains ) and clear at the outflow near Sopore. The scientific reason for this being that transporting capacity of water is directly proportional to the velocity of the current. When any river enters a lake the velocity of its current drops ,resulting in deposition of silts in stagnant and relatively low velocity of water It is corroborated from the historical facts that man made island of Jainalanka (Zainlank) which according to Jonaraja was surrounded by waters and at present is surrounded by marshes and dry land . If the silting of Wular is not checked, the great and biggest fresh water lake in the state will be reduced to a marshy land similar to Anchar,Hokarsar or Pambsar with river slowly meandering through it. In case Wular has to be preserved for future generations, an alternative between Sumbal and downstream of Sopore by passing the lake which existed in the past has to be rejuvenated through which the waters of the river will have to be regulated by a barrage/ veer during heavy rains, floods or whenever the water of the river will turn muddy thus saving the Wular lake from silting. The silts of Bandipur nala can be prevented from entering Wular Lake by construction of a cofferdam and the silts thus accumulated upstream of the dam can be removed from time to time for construction purposes.

Downstream of Suyyapura (Sopore ) in Kashmir valley Vitasta receives its last major tributary along its right bank the Pahara (Pohur) draining the north western corner of the valley and being of steeper gradient and faster current than Vitasta deposits silts in the latter’s bed resulting in rise of the water level upstream. However from time to time at the site of confluence of Pahara with Vitasta silts have been removed by dredging in the recent past. Vitasta after leaving the last major town of the valley Baramula enters its mountainous course at Huskapura(Uksur) beyond which it becomes unsuitable for navigation. The name Vaharamula (Baramula or Varmul) has been derived from the ancient Tirtha of Vishnu -Adi -Vahara where Vishnu was worshiped since time immemorial as a medieval boar. On western extremity of the town near KothiTirtha till very recently a number of ruins were seen but not much is known about their antiquity.

Between Uskar and Uri, Vitasta flows in a south westerly direction and beyond somewhatin a north Westerly direction upto Muzafrabad where it is joined by Krashna (Kishen Ganga) Kunar, Kahgan follows a southerly course up to Mangla near Jhelum forming the boundary between West Punjab and State of Jammu & Kashmir. From Mangla onwards Vitasta again heads in a south westerly direction before meeting Chandrabhaga( Chenab) near Jang-Sadar.

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