Akhbaar

July, 2009

Sarkar  gir gai! Sarkar  gir gai! The government has fallen!’

At Amira Kadal, a young newspaper vendor was screaming at the top of his voice. The paper was selling briskly. Only paces away from him, on the same pavement, a distraught looking old man, another newspaper vendor, was trying to grab the attention of faceless morning crowd. He was beating the palm of his one hand on his head while the other hand was pointed towards his young competitor.

Ha yemis kya sa gao! Ha yemis ha’sa niyn ra’tith! What is wrong with him? They will get him! The government hasn’t fallen. He is lying through his teeth. Look at him. Stop him.’

People kept walking. He competitor kept making the pitch.

Previous day, the Chief Minister of the state, amid an uproar, had angrily walked out of the assembly house and later submitted his resignation. The resignation was rejected by the governor and the government did not fall.

Birch tree, Burza

A Birch tree (called Burz’e Kul) at Sonamarg.
A ‘murder’ atop Birch tree.
(Murder, that’s what a group of crows is called) These mountain crows are known as ‘De’v Kaw‘ or ‘god crow’. (more of them later)
Birch bark or Burza. In old days, when there was no paper, Birch was used for writing. A lot of ancient Kashmiri manuscripts are preserved on burza. [Restoration of these works]

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Jajeer

The thing that goes: good good good

A Kashmiri with his Hookah.

If he coughs, he takes another drag. ‘It is good. Relieves the cough. Clears the chest. Just like a medicine.’ Takes another drag. Good Good Good.

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Jahamuk tamok
Tobacco from Jaham (ie, splendid tobacco).
Jaham tobacco is said to be the finest in the valley

– A Dictionary Of Kashmiri Proverbs and Sayings
(1885)
J. H. Knowles
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Photographs are by my father.

Along with TV

[Cross posted at my other blog

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“The hiss of TV static denotes remnant radiation that still lingers from the big bang 14.5 billion years ago.”

 – National Geographic, February 2003September 2009 marks the 50th year of dear old national broadcaster Doordarshan. 

Yeah, it’s kind of hard to believe, I told my Uncle about it and he didn’t believe it. He thought Doordarshan must have started in 1960s, it should only be around 40 years old. 

According to wiki:

Doordarshan had a modest beginning with the experimental telecast starting in Delhi in September 1959 with a small transmitter and a makeshift studio. The regular daily transmission started in 1965 as a part of All India Radio. The television service was extended to Bombay and Amritsar in 1972. Till 1975, seven Indian cities had television service and Doordarshan remained the only television channel in India. Television services were separated from radio in 1976. […] 

In my own state, J&K, the broadcast started only as late as 1973 with an experimental broadcast. In the beginning you could only catch it in Chief Minister’s cabin on his private television. In 1973, the famous (I find it kind of ugly) Tv tower atop Shankaracharya Hill cropped up, by November it was fully functional. Also by then, in 1973, Doordarshan had already got its famous signature tune.

National telecasts were introduced in 1982. In the same year, colour TV was introduced in the Indian market with the live telecast of the Independence Day speech by then prime minister Indira Gandhi on 15 August 1982, followed by the 1982 Asian Games being held in Delhi.

Another big TV event of the decade was year 1984 nationally televised (in color) funeral of Indira Gandhi; people had documentaries and Bhajans playing all day long. In 1985, Doordarshan accepted commercial advertising for the first time. Hum Log became a rage. Still television was something that needed to be turned off. When there was no signal, there was static noise. People decorated their television sets with television covers. Some sets came with shutters no less. A couple of years later, in 1990, February 13th to be exact, Lassa Kaul, Station Director of Doordarshan Srinagar was shot dead by militants right outside his house in Srinagar. Still, listening to News on Doordarshan, you couldn’t tell Srinagar from Modinagar. Everything was normal. These were days like any other. For news people turned to BBC radio. People said there were some strange signals coming from PTV. But it wasn’t easy to catch PTV in the valley. I learn’t a technique – drive two nails, inch apart, into the wall just over the television set, attach two wires to the nails and use the nails as antenna. We tried. It didn’t work. I was learning to love Mile Sur Mera Tumhara. My folks were packing the bags. We left. TV came along with us. But the bigger one, a Philips B&W with wooden cabinet, had to be left at the relatives for some years, we had no space for it. Space was never enough ever since. In Jammu, I finally caught up with PTV.They were playing Jaws. I remember the night, we were sleeping under the dark open sky on mats spread on still warm cemented rooftop.  It was fun. But the blue light of Tv attracted moths and other strange insects. I hadn’t seen such insects in the valley. Tv wouldn’t burn the moth. Still they came. Still more came. From the rooftop, I could see the bright electric lights of distant Trikuta hillform a deformed inverted V.

On 26 November 2008, late at night, when all the other news channels were on the frontier of information war front, I found classical music playing on Doordarshan. It was just another day. It made sense. Back in my state, in the afternoon of 27th, people must have picked up national dailies, front page (fixed hurriedly late in the morning ) was right, it had the right big news but inside, people got to read international news dated 25th – they read about things that happened on some part of earth on 24th. I don’t think you can now see the inverted V that clearly from the city now.

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Vinayak Tchoram Ti Aathwaar

It’s ‘Vinayak Tchoram Ti Aathwaar‘ and it’s not ‘Vinayak tchoram ti aathwaar‘ because 4th of this month is missing in Kashmiri calender. How do dates go missing? Don’t ask me! ‘Vinayak tchoram ti aathwaar‘ is my exact birthday and not my angreez birthday, which according to Georgian calender is 22nd.

It is Aathwaar, Sunday, today and it’s Ganesh Chaturthi all over India but today is 3rd. 4th, tchoram, is missing. Based on my own personal calculation,’Vinayak Tchoram Ti Aathwaar‘ (real one) comes once every eleven years or so. I have some distant uncles who, instead of saying my name, just exclaim, ‘Vinayak tchoram ti aathwaar!’ whenever, every odd year,  we meet. My folks stopped ‘giving’ Punn with my birth . It would have been difficult to manage two things. Yeah I like that old Dung-Roth-Gold story for the day. Which reminds me, is His birthday also missing? O’ Doesn’t matter. But my birthday is ‘missing’ this year. Okay, not entirely missing  as the ‘Morning Birthday Pooza‘ has been moved to 3rd. So the birthday is on treyum. How do dates move? Don’t ask me! How do birthdays go missing? Don’t ask me! Must be a celestial mystery. It can all become very confusing. How does one keep track? I get phone calls. Just like I get phone calls on 8ths, Aaethams (How many of them are there in a month anyway?). Don’t eat this. Don’t eat that. Okay. (But I do eat that sometimes)
So again, how can a Birthday go missing. Explain that to my defiant body cells. Receding hairline. White, that started years ago. Is that a belly? Crazy nostril hair. Is that a hair in my ear? A single strand of hair. A bouin. What does it think? Yeh Shadipur nahi, Kanpur hai! Stop. They must have made some mistake at Vicharnag, all they do is talk and drink Kehwa, instead they should be doing some VicharVimarsh and cross checking their numbers. Recalculate the dates, match calculations, get on line and tell me, ‘Tchoram cha Raawaan?’ Is 4th missing?

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Ignore.
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Image: Ganpatyaar

An incident

“Some Punjabis, probably soldiers, had come to a fair for no good intention, and soon were at their game, molesting some Hindu women, who had come to worship; but no one in the crowd came forward to protect these women. Fortunately, however, some Mission Schoolboys arrived on the scene, and they at once fell upon these hooligans and smote them hip and thigh. And when the crowd perceived which way the battle was going, it joined very wisely the winning side. As this little affair happened at the shrine of the goddess of murder, I asked the staff and boys which side the goddess took in the fight? This question was rather a poser, for some said that the goddess was on the side of those who attacked the women, and others maintained that she sided with the schoolboys. Opinions were divided on this important subject until a Solomon solved the difficulty by explaining that as Kali was the goddess of murder and blood, she would naturally side with the party which shed the most blood, and that honour certainly fell to the Mission School boys. This decision pleased and comforted us all.”

– from “Beyond The Pir Panjal: Life and Missionary Enterprise in Kashmir” (1912 ) By Ernest F. Neve. The boys were from the newly opened Christian Missionary School (CMS) now simply known as Tyndale Biscoe School after the name of its legendary principal – Rev. Cecil Tyndale-Biscoe. Neve actually quotes words of Biscoe describing the incident.

Pandit Women, 19th century group photograph

They had names like:
Arandati, Soomawati, Kud’maal, Yembarzal, Umbrawati, Maat’kuj, Indrawati, Janki’maal, Ri’tch’maal, Kong’maal, Durgawai, Battin’ded, mather’ded, Raaj’ryen, Sang’maal, Tarawati – (Tara, Tarawati, Taeer) and Savidaan’ded (she was always alert, hence the name. Once she even caught a thief who had cat crawled up the walls and into the house through a window. When alert Savidaan’ded saw the thief, she offered him food, fed him, pointed the spots where to find the gold and other precious things. He thanked her, told her she was a great and pious lady who fed a poor man like him. She said it was nothing, all God’s will. Then just as he thanked her once more, turned and started to climb down the window, she pushed him, sending him into a free fall, he fell down – Second floor, first floor and hit the ground, it broke his legs. Then she raised an alarm.)

Next generation, their daughter and daughter-in-laws had names like Lata’showri, Janki’showri and so on.

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Came across this rare vintage  group photo of Kashmiri Pandit woman at columbia.edu . Probably late 19th century. A line at the bottom of the photograph written in French read: Femmes Cachemiriermes. Caste des Pundites.
The line helped identify that the women in this photograph are Pandit but I had my doubts, for one, there are too many ear ring, and all important dejhoor does not seem to be one of the ear rings, no bindi on forehead (only one, standing second from right, appears to sport one ), dress is too designer. A cursory look and they seem Muslim.

I showed this photograph to my mother and ‘Muslim’ was her verdict. I pointed out the french caption. My mother looked at the picture more carefully and changed her verdict. They are definitely Pandit woman, the definitive proof, their Pheran has Laad, a fold down towards the bottom of their dress.

Then I asked my mother to give me some names.

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Sheer joy of Sheer Chai or Noon Chai

 
Sheer Chai and Kulch’e. Noon Chai, salt tea for afternoons. Pandits are more likely to call it Sheer Chai.
 
Sheer Chai gets its pinkish hue from baking soda.

When I was a kid, I used to love Kehwa. I would look forward to it any given morning and Sheer Chai, it was that strange looking tea that old women drank, with much delight, in late afternoons. Sitting in group, chatting, at ease holding steaming brass khos with the edge of their sari, they would sip Sheer Chai after their long chores and toils in kitchen were over. They ask me. No, this not for me, why don’t you make Kehwa, now that I will have anydayanytime. That was then. Now, I keep looking forward to a cup of salty Sheer Chai, with malai. They hold stainless steel cup now, but still like that. Now too, it’s a special brew for rare little get-togethers or it’s just something you may say yes to one lazy one afternoon and it will come to you. I like to think that I have developed a taste for it. At first they, the makers, the women, mothers, aunts, grandmothers, were surprised, now its okay. But still, I don’t think Sheer Chai is okay for mornings. Not in the morning. Sweet Kehwa is still fine for mornings.

funny, pandit, wit

One day, while hearing a petition, I noticed an elderly Hindu villager standing on his head. He remained in that position for nearly half an hour, when I asked him his business. He then explained that his affairs were in so confused a state that he did not know whether he was standing on his head or his heels.

Walter Roper Lawrence mentions this incident in his The Valley of Kashmir (1895). And in another incident recounted by Lawrence:

A Pandit, whose petition had been three times rejected, appeared a fourth time, and I told him that if he presented another petition I should have to report him to the local official. The next day the Pandit appeared with a paper in his hand ; he was at once ordered to be removed, but explained that it was not a petition but a poem which he wished to present. The poem recited his grievances.

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roof, Hari Parbat

Sometimes in the villages one finds the roofs of the larger houses and of the shrines {zidrafs) made of birch bark with a layer of earth above it. This forms an excellent roof, and in the spring the housetops are covered with iris, purple, white, and yellow, with the red Turk’s head and the Crown Imperial lilies. In the city nearly all the houses of well-to-do people are roofed with the birch bark and earth, so that looking down on Srinagar from the Hari-Parbat hill one sees miles of verdant roofing.

– “The Valley of Kashmir” (1895) by Walter Rooper Lawrence
Photograph: View of Srinagar city down from temple at Hari Parbat. June 2008

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