Question Answer on Pandit Re-settlement in Valley


Originally written for Economic And Political Weekly as a web exclusive, 21 May, 2016

The Pandit Questions


There are areas in Kashmir where Shias live.
There are areas in Kashmir where Sunnis live.
There are areas in Kashmir where Sikhs live.
There are areas in Kashmir where Armies live.
There are areas in Kashmir where Terrorists live.
Areas marked and divided like compost bin.
Some houses there are even for Tibetan, Uzbek, Afghan and Iranian refugees.
They all have houses in Kashmir from which we often hear talk of war and peace.
Now, if you ask, “But, where do Pandits live in Kashmir?”
“I have heard three live about a mile from here, two a mile after that, seen them with my own eyes and the remaining—they all live in our heart.”
So lease me your big heart for a minute or two, I need to use the loo.

I recently had a long question and answer session with Michael Thomas of Pipal Presss on the “Pandit” question. He is working on a small docu-book based on his experiences of Kashmir. He has brought out similar books on his travels in Kutch and Chhattisgarh.

I met him in Kashmir and we did some travelling together. We have been discussing Kashmir a lot and given the current direction in which the ruling party is approaching the question of rehabilitation of Kashmiri Pandits (KPs), the usual Pandit questions came up.

Michael: Is the “Migrant Immovable Property Act” of 1997 still in force? On my last visit I saw a number of large empty Hindu houses and the wrecks. I wonder if others have been sold by agreement to Kashmiri Muslims and perhaps squatters occupy others.

Vinayak: The act is still in place. But people have found a legal loophole. Most of the sales that are happening now are essentially not sale, but transfer of ownership using guardianship of the property. KPs are transferring the “power of attorney.” Payment is usually done in cash. Which means it is mostly “black money.”

Also, a lot of property has been illegally occupied, with the Pandits getting almost no redressal and support from government, local police and lawyers. Most cases are tied up in lengthy paper work. All that one has to do in court is prove that the person is not a “migrant” and the sale is considered legal. Given that a lot of offices in the 90s were burnt down by terrorists, papers about ownership are often reported “lost” by various departments. I have relatives who are facing this issue.

Michael: It seems that Narendra Modi wants Pandit Hindu families to return to Kashmir as they are Kashmiri by birth. There has been talk of resettling in their old homes and the formation of three “colonies” (ghettoes in my view). It has been suggested to me that this is the propaganda of Bharatiya Janata Party/Kashmir Peoples Democratic Party (with the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) in the background) but on the other hand, that Pandit Hindus really wish to return to their homeland provided the terms are right. It strikes me that a lot of time has passed since the diaspora and things are different as families have settled in Delhi, the Middle East and in the United States. What is your opinion?

Vinayak: Yes, definitely the push is coming from the RSS. A lot of Pandits would like “colonies.” I would like the “colonies” to be there. But, what is a “colony”? If a Bengali moves to Delhi, he would know Bengalis stay around Chittaranjan Park, and in the beginning would prefer living there. If a Gujarati goes to the United Kingdom he would know the areas where he would be comfortable…he would seek Wembley. Sikhs will be in Southhall. Pakistanis would be in Bradford.

But, no one would say British are doing it deliberately. Or, that these are ghettos. It is the way societies work. Why else would there be a Jew town in Kochi, which incidentally now has a lot of Kashmiri Muslims. And yes, eventually, people move out.

But somehow when Pandits talk about living together in certain areas, the cause is seen as “insult” by Kashmiri Muslims because it would means Pandits are “distinct” and not comfortable living with Muslims. It is kind of ironic that those opposing “colonies” think Pandits to be Jews who displaced Palestinians.

I am not some third generation Kashmiri who wants land to live in Kashmir, I was born there. Yes, with time not many would be able to make this claim.

Those in Kashmir who oppose the move know this. They do not care if the colonies are “composite” or “exclusive,” the word “colony” rattles them, as if confusing it with colonisation.

And these Kashmiris are the same people who on moving to Delhi would prefer living in a Muslim majority area and not in an area where someone like Praveen Togadia is worshipped. And they want Pandits to move back to their old houses and keep the head down when a hate speech is made from the local mosque.

Given the recent history of the two communities, one cannot blame Pandits for not wanting to immediately live among them. I am okay with separate colonies, even as I would personally prefer to live in a mixed society. No one has the right to dictate to Pandits where they should live in Kashmir.

Michael: Recently I saw an article, which described Kashmir as a “junction of conflicts.” This fits with my emerging view and I can see no way out. It is as if Kashmir has a hand on the self-destruct button and would not compromise so that it can let go. It follows that India will continue to “control” Kashmir. Any comments?

Vinayak: I agree. Every party to this conflict has convinced themselves they have already invested too much and now are unable to step back. Conflict is now an industry in Kashmir. Too many people are profiting, from power hungry politicians, greedy bureaucrats, crazy Mulla religious heads, theorising academicians and “4th Estate.”

India is not going out of Kashmir. Indian security apparatus can be moved out. Army can be moved back to borders, a truth and reconciliation process can be started but both sides have to accept they have been unable to change the stance of the other party.

Kashmiri people need to stop confusing freedom with Sharia. Pakistan needs to stop its Jihad factories. India needs to reign in on its band of justice. If the history of the subcontinent tells us anything, it is this—there is only one idea really worth striving for in these lands and that is the idea on which India was founded.

Michael: If Modi is proposing three new colonies it sounds as though they are exclusively for Pandits, which would be a ghetto in my view because of its exclusivity. Do you think that is what he is proposing and if so do you think it is a good solution?

Vinayak: I think what they are proposing are “exclusive” townships. It will include Hindus and Muslims who were forced to migrate. Anyway, the concept of exclusivity is not new to Kashmir. Article 370 ensures that only Kashmiris can buy land in Kashmir. Hasn’t that exclusivity already made Kashmir a “ghetto” inside India?

I think what Geelani and his ilk are preaching to fellow Kashmiris is that if Pandits are settling in an exclusive area, even if it is very small, in the long run there will be more Pandits living in Kashmir, living in a certain area. Given that they are ready to keep the conflict going for a very long time. In the eventual solution of Kashmir, the Pandit area would mean division of Kashmir along religious lines…something akin to the two-nation theory that led to Pakistan. It is this fear that makes them oppose it.

This parallel with the two-nation theory is what is also stopping RSS to fully back Pandits on this. This would in a way be their approval of Jinnah’s theory. So, they are just using Pandits as a stick for beating Kashmiri Muslims.

I do not support “exclusive” townships but I do believe it is not for the majority community to dictate the terms on which we would return.

Michael: Finally, can you define “goondaism” for me please? I have a rough idea which is probably wrong!

Vinayak: By “goonda,” we mean in India essentially a person who will have his way purely based on his power to create violence. “Goondaism” is the way the majority community would like to have its wishes fulfilled by issuing threats of violence. They should not dictate to Pandits which kind of pandit is allowed back in Kashmir and which is not allowed.

In 1990, the Pandits that moved out were all kind of people, there were RSS supporters, there were communists, there were secularists, there were “Kashmiriyatists,” there were farmers, there were civil servants, there were religious conservatives and there were even atheists. Now, Geelani and his tribe are saying only good Pandits, the Pandits who would essentially keep quiet about political matters is the only kind that can survive in Kashmir.

Why?

When Pandits return, the people who return would be the same mixed set. Even though I have no love for RSS or BJP, but even their supporters have the right to return. “Goondaism” will only beget “goondaism” and it should in no way be encouraged.

Michael: One final question. If your family wanted to repossess the family home can they? That is to say, is the “power of attorney” reversible?

Vinayak: Legally, they do not have a purchase deed, so I guess it is reversible. There is even an extra piece of land which we just left with another good old neighbour without any paperwork…and that was a decade before 1990. I cannot think of moving any of them out and repossess the land. It would be another forceful displacement, this time for another set of Kashmiris.

If exclusive colonies are a bad idea, moving existing owners out and putting Pandits in their old house for the sake of creating mixed colonies is a worse idea. There would be a lot more bad blood among communities. But, returning of property that is forcefully occupied is another matter.

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“Hero Stone”, Mattan

I must have been 6 or 7 when I first visited the spring at Mattan. My Nani took me there. She told the old story about the royal fish with golden earring. I saw people swimming in the spring, swimming to a platform in center of the pool and praying. From a distance, I never could see what exactly was in the center besides the Shiv Ling. I couldn’t swim. This year I again visited the place. The fish were there. No swimmers. Winter. I still can’t swim. But, now I could see. In the center, besides the Shiv Ling, is another slab. When I was a kid no one could have told me what it was. Yet, now I know. It’s no god. In the center is another one of those anonymous “Hero Stones” of Kashmir, memorial in honor of death of a warrior in battle. Somehow, there is not a single academic research paper on study of memorial stones still strewn all across Kashmir valley.

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Yiyem Nate Hai Maaras Paan

Bharti Raina sings kalaam of Rahim Saeb Sopori. She learnt this song as a kid from her music teacher Indira Kachroo, who used to live near Regina Cinema, Baramulla. She had last sung it in 9th standard while on an all Girl’s guide camp to Harwan. That was a long time ago.

video link

Biloreen saaq,

Biloreen saaq, seemeen tan, samman seena, sareen nasreen,
Jabbeen chuy aayeena aayeen ajab taaza jilaa, Jaa’noo

~ Rasul Mir, 19th century

Crystal Legs
Body Mercury
Jasmine Bosom
Daffodil Butt
Forehead,
a wondrous
polished
mirror,
my love

Those Stones of Burzahom


The is the last piece of 2nd set of my Kashmir travelogue. 3rd set to start soon. 

First dig. Burzahom
1935

Many a discoveries in Kashmir were purely accidental. Among the many is the discovery of Burzahom.

In 1932, Helmut de Terra arrived in Kashmir valley on a geological study tour. On a clear spring day, he undertook an excursion on the river Jhelum. Travelling along the river bank, at one place, he noticed a strange object emerging from the river bank. On close inspection he realized it was a stone knife made of volcanic rock and fashioned like old Paleolithic Levallois blades. It was the first such discovery in the valley, in fact, first sign of Stone Age man ever found in the Himalayan region.

De Terra was to return to Kashmir many times looking for more signs. In 1935 , De Terra with T. T. Paterson as part of Yale-Cambridge University Expedition, finally arrived on the curious stone mounds atop Yanderhom Karewa about 10 Kms north-east of Srinagar, just above the marshy flood-plain of the river Jhelum. To the discoverers it was obvious that the stones were menhirs. In subsequent did, stone axes, pestles and bone tool were found.

The flood plain is now where people live. While the stones still stand, next to a cricket field.

Road to Burzahom 

The burial pits discovered in 1960s 
Burial pit. Burzahom. 1962 . From 1960 to 1971 extensive digging was carried out by T.N. Khazanchi to discover the cultural remains of a civilization.

The people who live around the area believe the pits to be dwellings of Jinns and consider the place to be haunted. Some people come and tie threads on the steel mesh, making wishes.

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Arni Rang Gom


I tell her a nightmare about loss. She sings me an old song about a man who went missing. I stitch a little dream. In our songs, we are home.

Video link
Living in another city, miles away, my wife singing me Arnimaal.

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Here are the lyrics and translation from T.N. Raina

arni rang gom shraavuni heeye
kar yiye darshun deeye
The pallor of fading flowers has fallen
On the midsummer jasmine bloom in me
O, won’t I behold his form again?
shaama swondury paaman laajis
aama taavan kotaah gaajis
naam paagaama tas kus neeye
kar yiye darshun deeye
My love has made me suffer jibes,
Given many a burn to sear my soul
Who will bear my message to him?
O won’t I behold his form again?
kanda naabada aarud mutui
fanfa karith tsolum kotui
khanda kary nam lookan theeye
kar yiye darshun deeye
Worshipped by me as my old, my god,
Why did he slip away by stealth,
Leaving me a prey to public taunts?
O won’t I behold his form again?
suli vwothav sangarmaalan
lala tshaandon kohan ta baalan
pararaan chhas by tihinzi zeeye
kar yiye darshun deeye
Let’s go at break of dawn,
And look for my love over hill and dale
I wait for his restoring touch.

O won’t I behold his form again?
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Ode to Mandul

Brian Brake. 1950s

I have always been a man susceptible to stupidity. In my house, tales are told of my stupidity. One time, during a wedding someone sent me to buy 25 kilos of paneer, I came back with 25 kilos of Dahi. At moments like these, someone would usually quick, “tchay ne’nay mandul chatith, tchay tari nee fikri! Someone would cut off your ass and you wouldn’t notice.” It is a nice Kashmiri way of saying, ” You so dumb!” I never understood why Dodhwol, or anyone, would be interested in cutting off someone’s ass. However, I understood one thing clearly over the years: if there’s one thing Kashimiris value more than their brain, it is their ass. Mandul, the ass, is intrinsic part of conversations in Kashmiri. You can’t talk to a Kashmiri without him pointing to the ass. You could be discussing black holes seriously using arguments from Stephen Hawking, and someone would respond with, “Tchay chay ni Mandlitch paaye! You don’t know ass!” End of discussion.

Why is Mandul so central to Kashmiri conversations? Why is Mandul center of Kashmiri lingual anatomy? Mandlu is even a Kashmiri surname! And it is seldom erotically used while speaking. Even though we have a 9th century Kashmiri poetess named Vikatanitamba, (vikaTa=horrible, nitamba=buttock) who wrote erotica.

The Mandul is mentioned in old Kashmiri sayings like:

Soyi seeth mandul chhalun
Wash ass with nettle
Keep bad company
Panzis Dap’ya Ponz zah mandul chhui wazul
Will a monkey tell another monkey that his butt is red?

Pot calling the kettle black

However, in general language Mandul is used more freely.

[Behiv manḍüjü karith, ti boziv. Sit on you ass and listen]

Here’s a little list of ways in which Mandul is invoked in Kashmiri language, often in our intelligent discussions about Kashmir:

mandul ne’nay chatith

You are so dumb, someone would cut off your ass and you wouldn’t even notice.

Following two are best discussion enders

Tchay chay ni Mandlitch paaye


You are trying to sound intelligent but you don’t even know your own ass

If you want to go next level, say

Mandals chui Ghiss lore

There’s shit on your ass and you can’t even see that

Or, vunyi chuy Mandul oudruy

Your ass is still wet. Yet are yet to come of age, yet talk big.

Or even,

Mandul ye chalith

Wash your ass. You stink.

These lines are usually used if someone has got


Mandlas Kijj

Itchy ass. Deployed if a person is trying to be smart ass.

Or

Mandlas Kyom

Wormy Ass
If a person is fickly and won’t sit at one place.

Or, the next level

Mandlas chi chott kyom

Tape wormy ass

The lines often end with the other party getting

Mandlas tatur

Ass inflammation

Mandul woshlun

Ass gone red like monkey

Mandul Asmanas gasun

Bending down.

Mandlas Pyeth kaduss preth

Kick on his ass

To avoid it all, you need

Mandlas aaych

Ass that has an eye. Be super smart.

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Nabas Mandul Havun

In rural Kashmir, among Pandit families involved with farming, if one wanted to make rains stop, one would pick a kid and face it’s shining ass to the sky. Yes, that would make the rain stop. Indra Dev be happy. One of those Kashmiri things. They would mock the gods: “We are not afraid. My kid washes his butt with your rain!”

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Paanch Azaan


video link

1:19 min. Made over two years.

Act 1
Manasbal
 […crowds of worshippers used to fall down and rise at prayers, imitating the high waves…]
~ Dvitīyā Rājataraṅginī, Jonaraja describing Muslims at prayer.
Act 2
Nagin Lake
the man said there are now so many mosques in his area, new Ahle Hadees, competing Barelvi, then the older ones and many more. But, inside empty. Only loudspeakers. It gives him headaches. He then left for his Namaaz.
Act 3
Silent prayer.
Act 4
Village Tullamulla
She said there’s a hawan going on somewhere nearby. Some one is praying. Indrakshi Stotram. Let’s go. A CRPF guy standing next to a pile of stones corrects her, “Namaaz”. It is Friday. He is waiting for stone pelters.
“When he (Jayapida) was appropriating (the land of) Tulamulya, he heard, while on the bank of the Candrabhaga, that a hundred Brahmans less one had sought death in the water of that (stream).”
And with their magic prayers they broke 9th century King Jayapida’s head and caused his death. So say’s Kalhana.
Act 5
Pampore
February 20, 2016
Two terrorists take over a JKEDI building shoddily built atop the 11th Century AD King Jayasimha’s Simhapora, burying history under concrete. [link]
While the gun battle starts, in nearby village, the priest in the mosque asks people to answer the call of Muslim blood.
Army diverts the cars to take an alternate route to reach Srinagar.
We are stuck in a car near village Kunmoh, the birth place of 11th-century Kashmiri poet Bilhana.

I ask her if she is afraid.

She answers, “No.”

I ask her, “why?”

“I don’t know, “she replies.

Even now, knowing death is quickly closing in, 
my thought leaves the gods and is drawn to her in awe.
What can I do? My thought is obsessed: “She is my love!”
~ Bilhana.
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A Kashmiri dust storm that blows in Rajasthan

I got married in February. Half the marriage functions were held in Jammu where my family is now based post forced eviction from Kashmir in 1990. Other half of marriage was held in Delhi where my wife’s family is based due to the same events of 1990. A Muslim friend from Srinagar who attended my marriage couldn’t help but notice on a sad note this “scattering” of a Kashmiri community. “Chakravun” is the exact word used for scatter by all Kashmiris.

Aap logo kay saath accha nahi hua. You people had it rough, ” the Mehendiwalla hired in Jammu chirped while putting henna on hands of an aunt. As often is the case, the Mehendiwalla turned out to be a migrant worker from Rajasthan. He then proceeded to prove how well he understood the Kashmiri Pandit story.

“Nehru….Jagmohan…”

Most people present were surprised and delighted that people now know the story. Pandits always feel people are oblivious to their story. People asked him how come he knows all this.

He gave his source, “I saw it on that Zee TV special about pandits of Kashmir. And that video by Anupam Kher.” 

Everyone thanked Anupam Kher for telling their story, as it is. “Truth”, they call it.

It was the Hindi TV news channels that did the work. I was already having a tough time convincing people that what Anupam Kher is doing with Kashmiri Pandit story is wrong. It has been conveniently molded into a handy weapon for communal political ends that in no way redress the genuine issues faced by Kashmiri Pandits. So, where is this weapon getting used, how and why?

A month later, I was in Rajasthan with my wife. In Udaipur, a local shopkeeper guessed from my looks that I was a Kashmiri. He said I looked like the guy who runs the shop next to him. The next shop was of Kashmiri handicrafts and shawls. The two were good friends.

On entering Jodhpur, I could see that a lot of walls had an appeal painted on them,”Gow Mata kay hatiyaro ko phansee do. Hang the killers of Mother Cow.”

While leaving the city, I asked the driver to stop for tea. Just outside the city on way to Jaisalmer, we stopped at a local roadside tea stall. As I ordered tea, a middle-aged man sitting on a plank under a tarpaulin shed called out to me. I turned around to see it was in fact a gathering, a bunch of men with nothing else to do, just sitting and talking. I was going to be the topic. I greeted the man with a smile and walked to them. I sat down and we talked.

“Where are you from?”

Over the last many years, I have answered this question in a lot of different places all over India. Earlier on hearing Kashmir, conversation would be about “Halaat kaisey hai” and ‘Terrorism”. However, since last few years, conversations are becoming more invasive.

“ Dharam. Jaat. Gotra.”

Everything was asked.

“I am a Kashmiri Pandit”

On hearing the words, what followed was a discourse in which the doctor had finally found the patient about which he had read and studied a lot. The man proceeded to diagnose Kashmir and kept testing my pulse to look for a communal beat.

It was the usual report: Nehru was a dumb idiot, UN was not needed, Brahmins were always weak, Jagmohan saved the Pandits, Muslims can’t be trusted. What they did to you was wrong!

Aap log sadak par aa gaye.

I couldn’t help pointing out, I was traveling in a car, he was sitting by the roadside.

It was obvious he was performing to an audience that had gathered. He was the local genius who sits under the banyan tree dispensing wisdom. It was the Sangh narrative.

I wasn’t biting. I tried to reason. But, it was as if the man was on some drug.

He offered the medicine.

“Modi will get you back. Just see. We are all with you.”

I told him Modi was no good for me.

He suggested, “Go back. Answer them in same language. Kill your neighbours. Take back your homes.”

The narratives in which all Kashmiri Muslims are seen as perpetrators of ethnic cleansing is at work here.

I laughed and asked, “You mean everyone?”

“You can’t trust them.”

I must have laughed nervously for my driver now intervened as the casual banter was taking a heated turn.

Kya Bakwaas kar rahe ho?

My driver was a Muslim from Mount Abu. For entire length of the journey, he only played Muslim religious songs in the car. He had been listening to the sermon silently till now. The man offering the sermon was suddenly aware of the presence of a certain other.

“Tum kaha say ho bhai? Where are you from?”

Ajju Bhai, the driver was not going to play along.

“Calcutta say! Tu kya kar lega? Calcutta! What is it to you? Chalo Sir, we have a long distance to cover.”

I couldn’t leave with doing a bit of a performance of my own. All that people understand these days is acting.

The secular performance, “Log kharab nahi hotey. Halaat hotey hai. People are not bad, time is.”

Back in the car, Ajju Bhai explained, “These guys are Jokes.”

“These guys?”

“They are all low castes. Men with too much time and no work. We don’t even talk to them. And this is not a good time to discuss such matter.”

Ajju Bhai it seems was an expert on Manusmriti. His opinion on caste was another debatable topic, however, I could see the talk at the tea shop has impacted him in a different way. The way it is supposed to: cause a little burn. It was no play. He told me that the previous night there had been minor rioting in Jodhpur city. He had been up half the night keeping a vigil in the streets where Muslims live. It all started when head of a cow was reportedly found outside a temple. Soon, a crowd was stoning the Muslim shops. Few men were arrested.

Far away Kashmir was just a fuel in such local stories.

We reached Jaisalmer. I wasn’t looking for a guide. At a tea stall, a man with Sandalwood tilak on his forehead offered to show me the fabled Yellow city. From the talks he seemed like another performer. I hired him. The man selling the tea exclaimed, “Kaha say pakad liya! Where did you find him!”

Ten minutes into the tour, it became obvious that the man’s brain is littered with Saffron bombs. Explaining the Gadisar lake, he reached Israel and claimed Jews are actually Hindus too.

“Where are you from? Dharam. Jaat. Gotra.”

When I gave him the answers, he pulled out a rudraksha necklace from around his neck and claimed to be a “first class Brahmin”.

The usual narrative started, “Nehru idiot…”

Mr. Purohit, the guide, claimed to be a VHP worker having worked for them for more than fifteen years. The delight of being part of a secret group reflected like a glint in his eyes.

“Caste has weakened Hinduism. I don’t believe in it. We believe in Sanatan Dharam.”

I asked him if he was okay with a Brahmin marrying outside the caste. He evaded the question, continued to prove Yahoods were actually Yadavs, so part of Sanatan Dharam.

There’s a small ill-maintained crafts museum just next to the lake. The guide thundered how Indians neglect history. He claimed Muslim fakirs had predicted fall of Hindu empire in Rajasthan. How foreigners will walk like bulls in its streets. I looked around and saw a foreign tourist was keenly trying to make sense of the sermon. The guide claimed the local VHP unit works closely with the intelligence unit of the state, reporting on smugglers and other threats. He believed he had some power. He believed he could put a spell on politicians and make them lose. “I will give them all cancer.”

We reached a square in the fort city, he exclaimed out aloud, “Make way! This here is an intelligence agent from Kashmir.” 


I couldn’t help but chuckle at his antics. In Kashmir, in certain circles, a Kashmiri Pandit was and is always an intelligence agent.

“Aap logo kay saath acha nahi hua”

Again, I could see who the audience of Kashmiri Pandit story was. Where the daggers were getting sharpened.

We reached top of the fort. Purohit climbed on top of a view point next to a rusty cannon and pointed out at a Haveli the owner of which in old days had molested an entire Brahmin village. He turned around and claimed there’s only one real hero in India: Nathuram Godse. He screamed it at the top of his lung.

He showed me the Jain temple inside the fort city. Proudly he pointed out the Ganesh inside the Jain temple. With a sly nudge he pointed out the stones in “Kamasutra” pose. Then insisted I visit the old Hindu temple too.

On the way down he claimed to be a Kabirpanthi. I told him I didn’t know that Kabirpanthis were also members of VHP. I left the thread, didn’t want to offend Kabir.

Outside the shop, Ajju Bhai caught up with us. Purohit’s language changed. He and Ajju Bhai got along well. I told them to drop me and my wife at the famous Bhang Shop. Ajju Bhai was a little annoyed. He only believed in Zarda. Purohit proceeded to sing a hindi paean about the benefit of Bhang. I couldn’t understand it. They laughed.

We left Jaisalmer and headed back for Udaipur via Barmer. It was late at night when we stopped again for tea. I was hungry and asked if anything could be had. He had only tea to offer. I noticed a 786 in the shop name. Ajju Bhai probably noticed it too. His language changed. He now talked with a heavy tinge of Urdu with the shop owner. As if to tell the owner that he is a Muslim too. The owner of teashop was from Gujarat. He used to work in diamond industry but due to heavy loss in business had to leave everything. He was starting over again. I could see, behind the shop he had setup a little house. His infant child was in a makeshift cradle. His wife, head and face all covered, walked out to us with a big plate of papaya.

“How much for the papaya?”

“No charge for that. You asked for food. We had nothing. Just this papaya. We offered you half.”

In house of a dispossessed man, I finally found some respite from Kashmir.

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The piece was later republished on EPW, 07 May, 2016.

Republished by raiot.in

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