Ruins around Jammu

From the incredible collection of Man Mohan Munshi Ji.

Carving of Hanuman on a boulder in Dry river bed near Billawar (formerly Vallapura)
in Kathua District

Next six photographs are of temple ruins at Chediai (North of Tikri on Jammu-Srinagar Highway). Needless to say that the site is in need of restoration and preservation.

A channel for water erected on arches for a waterfall( now dry)
Statues of Lord Shiva and Parvati  mounted on Nandi and Garuda
Lord Kama (Hindu God of love ) mounted on peacock
Lord Vishnu and Brahama. And Vishnu as Matsya Avatar
Unidentified. [Right one is probably Krishna riding Kalia the serpent]
A  Pillar partly broken

Next set of photographs are of other places of interest around Jammu.

Temple of Sankpal (a local Deity) close to Sanna Sar
Temple at Cheni( architecture resembling to that of Kirmachi)
What is left of Basoli Palace cum fort
Riasi Fort recently renovated

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To the Library

While growing up, a visit to the public library was a monthly affair. My grandfather would take me with him to the library to borrow and return books. While he would pick his books, I would walk around its dark, cool alleys lined with rows of books, unordered, picking books that would interest me, reading a passage, picking torn, single, yellowed pages that usually lay at the bottom of the pile, or lay hurriedly buried between other books. Reading, with a feeling that I could easily spend my life there. Books, so many of them. What more can life offer, I would think. My grandfather would invariable pick on history, fiction – short stories and novels, Indian and non-Indian, essays – on politics and literature, poetry, theosophy, philosophy and religion. On a membership card which let him borrow at most three or four books, in any odd combination of these picks, any given month, a bunch of books would invariable find their way to me. While my grandfather would take notes in a diary, scribbling a line or a passage of his linking from a book (my father lamenting his father’s bad memory), I slowly mastered the ability to finish a month’s quota of books in a week and still be hungry for more, ready to goad him into visiting the dingy old library again.

Jammu is an old city. Or rather now a city of the old.

During last couple of years, on my in-frequent trips back to the city, going through his book shelf, I realized my grandfather’s pick had gone down to mostly books like ‘Vairagya Satakam’ by Bhartari and maybe a book on Kashmir. Checking the library card told me his trips to the library weren’t religiously regular anymore. 

Last week, on my most recent short trip to the city, he complained about watery eyes and blurred vision. Not to be outdone, I told him I have the same problem somedays. I am told on some days he forgets that he has already had lunch. I am told only on some days it is because of memory, rest of the time he is in fact hungry. Decade and a half of diabetes (which he has managed quite well with his active and clean lifestyle) and two operations for cerebral hemorrhage, second one just after a trip to Kashmir a couple of years ago, have taken a toll on his health.

Still. At Menzraat function of a cousin sister, pulling me aside, an uncle told me to accompany my grandfather to the banquet hall and have him eat something. So I slow walked with my grandfather to the hall, taking one step at a time, climbing stairs, him holding my hand. Inside, as I prepared to have a plate ready for him, I asked him what would he like to have. He smiled and took the thumb of his right hand to his mouth. Confused for a moment, I realized he was signing for booze. Signalling again, he asked, ‘Where are they drinking tonight?’ He wanted to know where were the men of the house drinking.  In a typical Kashmiri manner, most of the drink on such family events is done in private, away from the women and elders, probably in some corner room next to the kitchen. As I laughed my heart out, I walked my grandfather, a life long ‘almost teetotaller’, who was now in a celebratory mode looking to ‘wet his beak’, and led him straight to the lair of drinkers.

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This time I had the opportunity to re-visit the library with an Uncle, my Mamaji, who wanted me to check out some old photographs of Jammu that were shown in a recent exhibition at Kala Kendar of Jammu (apparently it had a surprisingly good response from the city dwellers) and that are now placed in the ‘Reference Section’ of the library. The last time I remember going out on such an outing with Mamaji on his Scooter, we were in Kashmir, I must have been seven and he took me to surprise trip to ‘Exhibition Ground’ where I got to see ‘maut ka kuan‘ and cocoons getting boiled for silk.

This trip wasn’t as dramatic but it was just as fun. My Mamaji had reference of someone, a reference always helps in such endeavors, but that someone had since been transferred to some other office. The new person in his seat, wasn’t in office, so to see (and possibly photograph the collection) instead we had to deal with two kindly looking aunties who (probably intimidated by a camera and beguiled by my ‘educated’ air)  kept asking if I hadn’t photographed their official desk that had a bunch of tiffin boxes, half-open, placed over newspapers. It was almost lunch time. I told them it is understandable. They thought I was from some cable channel or such. (Ah! My educated air!)

I told them the purpose of the visit. There were complications. In absence of  a senior officer they couldn’t let me photograph the collection. They had strict orders prohibiting it. In Jammu, photography is prohibited even in exhibitions. The reason, an old official one: if we let everyone have what we have, who will come to us. And so history remains in offices.

It told them I understood and dropped my camera next to a tiffin. As we discussed copyright issues, some how conversation took an interesting turn (actually you just have to say, ‘Look at west’ ). One of the women went to tell an anecdote that according to her summed up the issue: Tagore went to America, to its most famous library, and asked them to show him their most prized possession. They brought forth a book bound in golden (or something precious like that, she added in after thought). Tagore (that should be Vivekananda, was my early-thought) was expecting to see a Bible or something from the west, but he was astonished, and beaming with pride, to see The Bhagavad Gita. ‘We don’t care about out things,’ the woman added as she passed a big thickly bound catalogue of old images.

It was a collection photographs shot by lesser known Raj era photographers Herzog & Higgins and dated early 1920s. The collection has some incredible photographs of old Jammu – Mubarak Mandi, Raghunath temple, Tawi and some rare panoramic shot of Jammu city. Sadly, most of these panoramic shots are, for the sake of convince, cut into two in the pages of the book.

Another collection of old photographs included photographs of a royal marriage – Maharaja of Jammu & Kashmir on an invite to some other Kingdom (Kishangarh?). Kings shooting, riding elephants, stuff like that.

I was kind of disappointed that I couldn’t capture some of the incredible scenes I saw (those in the city must check it out). There were places I could recognize like the old secretariat at Mubarak Mandi, for sometime in early 90s, we lived in old area surrounding this place, view from Tawi river (although its sparseness was shocking), my father’s childhood favorite Ragunath Mandir ( but with a view an ancient water tank that is long gone).

I realize like most urban spaces in this region, Jammu too is essentially built upon an ancient tomb. A tomb not only whose last traces are getting fast buried but even the memory of which is fast fading, buried in forced apathy.

As I start to walk out of the library, one of the kindly women suggested that we should go to Kala Kendar where some of the old photographs are still on display. So my uncle kick stated his scooter and we were on our way to a building that all this time I believed to be a government hotel or a tourist center.

Ranbir Public Library, Kachi Chawni
The way to reference section
Inside

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Kiramchi Temples, Udhampur

Some beautiful photographs of the old temple sent-in by Man Mohan Munshi Ji.
He writes about these monuments:  located north of Udhampur town resembling architecture of Orissa temples. Besides other views it is believed that the said temples were erected by artisans from eastern India who accompanied Lataditya Mukipida on his return journey after conquering Eastern India.

 

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Arms of Clock

Come summer holidays and Sheebu, a bit to her displeasure, would watch her top ranking in the hierarchy of children go a notch down. In summer the cousins, or whoever we thought of as cousins, would arrive. Chotu, because of an eight month advantage, would be declared eldest and naturally would take upon herself to take of organizing activities. Chotu’s idea of fun activities was based around the game of ‘Teacher-Teacher’ which meant group reading of school text books and taxing mental exercises.

‘What’s the Time Now? Vinny, when will you learn to read the time? Badi sui kidhar hai? Choti sui kidhaar? Concentrate! When will you learn the difference between ponay gyarah and sawah gyarah?’
‘Chotu, I am confused. Ek hi sui dekh rahi hai!’
‘Gadhay, Barah baj gaye hai. Isliye.’

Even though silent Nidhi topped most of these activities, for obvious reasons, these games couldn’t hold our interest for long. Much to Sheebu’s delight, after a day or two, everyone would be back under her wing and back to games that involved chasing cats, going on adventures round the yard looking for kittens, puppies, roosters and ghosts, antagonizing our parents, chasing each other around the house for no reason, pulling each other’s legs, fueling our tiny egos, getting physically hurt, name calling, pukki-katti, in other words – raising hell. In summer, the old house, our one big heaven, would reverb with the sound of life, sound of children, our sound.

With summer arrived Goldie ‘The Biter’? Her arrival would make life easy for Megha ‘The Screamer’ as we now had someone better to pick on. Ironically, Megha was to become the victim of one of the best bites by Goldie, a memory of which she still carries on her shoulder.

With summer arrived Littu and her wild giggle that could be triggered easily even by silliest jokes. Tagging along would be her kid brother Nishu ‘The Sikh’, only five but already world renowned in Chattabal for his violent temper and a foul mouth, a side-effect, we kids believed, of spending too much time in Jammu. It was said that he once pulled the dangling Dejhoor of a teacher at M.DASS school so hard that the teacher’s ear got torn. But to us, hardly pint-sized, he seemed surprisingly harmless, except for the time when he broke my bat with two clean strokes on the cemented floor just because he felt like it, he amused us, and with his constant profane chant of ‘Mai’yava’, he was a source of some amusement even to the elders.

In summer would arrive little Rahul, who once gulped down a peg off a bottle of Selenium Sulfide Shampoo, probably because it smelled intoxicating and looked yummy too. Or was it Dettol? We realized little ones could be tricky to handle. It dawned on us quite early that little children, although occasionally fun, need constant attention, which inevitably means loss of fun for others. So often it happened that we kept the little ones outside the proverbial circle. They were just to watch from outside. Sometimes we even managed to push Megha outside the circle, convincing her she too was little. But in some games, like Ghar-Ghar, as no family is complete without babies, little ones would find themselves at the center of attention and these would be quibbling over who gets whom.

Besides Rahul, we had toddlers Neelu and Binnu. We all agreed, Neelu had all the potential to grab Megha’s title. Binnu was the quite one.

I write this after attending Binnu’s wedding at Jammu. This was the wedding of last and youngest of my ‘Born-in-Kashmir’ cousins.

Deepu (not to be called Chotu anymore) was there with her two year old girl who greets anyone she doesn’t like, which includes most people, with ‘Haat’ while lucky few people that she finds agreeable, get a ‘Bow-Bow’. Digging deep into the experience gained at handling kids as a kid, and applying the technique known as ‘Kid-you-are-now-an-Aeroplane-Now-Fly’, I got a ‘Bow-Bow Mamma’.

Sheebu came with her seven month old girl whose world right now revolves around only her mother. Though her baby in fascinated by colors (and I suspect her Mama’s wild hair), no technique stands a chance if she just wants her mother.

Nidhi is in US, her in-laws are on visit. She is saving up on holidays to be with Sheebu for her baby’s first birthday.

Goldie was there with her eight month old boy who appears quite calm most of the time even though his teething troubles should be about to start. May be he takes after his father, Honey, who as a kid didn’t think twice before giving away his best toy to me, a ‘Leo Mattel’ gun that threw discs.

Littu, married and settled in Bangalore, couldn’t attend as she was stuck with work, maybe saving up on holidays to be with her parents who she hasn’t seen for a year.

Nishu is saving on holidays to attend his best friend’s wedding. Around ponay gyarah or sawah gyarah at night, he rang-in on way back from work. He had had a long rough day, had his ear eaten by his boss for mistakes committed by someone else. We are in the same city but it has been a year since we met-up. Before the call died, we didn’t even promise each other to meet-up. We know how things are in the city. This knowing isn’t good I guess.

Rahul had all the plans made for attending the wedding. It all came to naught. He got Typhoid. I am yet to call him. Forgot.

Neelu was there. With Binnu marrying, now she is the only one amongst us who still lives in Jammu. She seemed happier this time around, back to old self, even occasionally cracking her nasty jokes.

As I write this, I realize there weren’t many summers like the one that I recall. I am not even sure if I recalled those kids correctly. In fact, there must have been only one summer -the last summer before the summer of our move, the summer we entered a strange black hole, no it can’t be a black hole, maybe we got gobbled by a strange space worm with no insipid point of singularity .

As space shrunk, somehow the distance between any given two points got larger and larger even as time itself moved faster and faster.

What else can explain this but a space worm? Are we still making our way inside its belly or have we been excreted? More importantly did ‘we’ get gobbled or did ‘I’ get gobbled? Are there multiple worms, one devouring another, like those easily explained in archetypal Sci-Fi movies? What if history is not a poetic river or a comforting ocean but an indifferent space worm?

No do not imagine an astronaut with a watch getting sucked inside this space worm. No do not dare imagine yourself inside this entity. Instead imagine Lalla, an experienced inside traveler, getting sucked into this space worm. Would she have written incredible ‘Vakhs’ about her journey outside? Could she have been devoured? Isn’t she traveling right now, being devoured? Would she mind it or would she see a beauty even in this journey? How bad were your days old lady? Do you know about nuclear fusion? It sure gave me sleepless nights as a kid. What is it that you said with a sigh, under hushed breath?

Keth chiy nendari-hatiy vudiy
Kencan vuden nesar peyi
Kenh chiy snan karith aputiy
Kenh chiy geh bazith ti akrayi

Some, though asleep, are yet awake,
While on some, apparently awake, slumber hath fallen.
Some, despite ablutions, are unclean,
While some, ‘mid household care, are actionless.*

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Vakh of Lal Ded translated by J.L.. Kaul.
Image: Sunset at Jammu.

Amarnath Painting, mid 19th century


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Devotees in the Amarnath cave temple
Jammu, Pahari, mid 19th century
Collection: National Museum, New Delhi
Came across this incredible painting at a miniature art exhibition in Jammu.
There is a lot going on this painting: Gossains(?) drinking water dripping from the ceiling of the cave; women devotees, one of them even carrying a child in her arms. On closer look one can see a Dejhoor dangling from this woman's ear, a good indication that the lady depicted here is a Kashmiri Pandit woman in Pheran. And then outside all this delirious scene, one can see the Muslim Shepherds, one of them looking amused, and one of the looking outside the frame.
A true masterpiece.
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More from this collection to be posted soon. [Update: Posted here]

Thassu Saheb thinking out loud, 1947

Cross-posted at my other Blog.
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From  Baburao Patel’s Q/A section in FilmIndia, August 1947 issue. ( via a collection shared with me by Memsaab Greta)

Lot of thinking going on there (what’s that thing about J.P ji ) but I am amazed by question posed by O.N. Thassu of Srinagar, whose progenies probably now live in Bombay and would probably readily buy the answer from Baburao Patel of Bombay (we know who else bought that answer only a year later endorsing it in a Court trail about a murder). Baburao Patel was known not only for his biting wit  but ‘let’s bite some, any heads’ attitude towards what he considered blackheads on Bhart Mata’s beautiful face. He voiced opinions what would probably now be considered concerns of pragmatic-Hindu-middle-class. And he often did it in a very pragmatic Indian way, this particular (and many around that that) issue was in fact full of eulogies in praise of Gandhi. A pragmatic: He had Muslim friends, a fairly large readership (at least in the beginning) consisting of Muslims, naturally he was an expert at defining difference between ‘good nationalist Muslim’ and ‘bad Muslim’, he was a good Hindu, naturally he knew a thing or two about similarity between ‘good nationalist Hindu’ and ‘good Hindu’, he liked-dis-liked Nehru, liked-dis-liked Gandhi, liked, thought highly of Sardar Patel, liked Bose (as he believed ‘dead don’t disappoint’). One could say that naturally qualifies him for the modern ‘thinking Hindu’ type of our mundane times. But to his credit he was also open to criticism, and would often allow this criticism on his own platform. That certainly is not a modern trait. Still, it does not surprise that he was one of the first journalists to join politics and get elected to Lok Sabha on a ticket from Bhartiya Jan Sangh, the old avatar of ‘Bhartiya Janata Party’ – the platform, in its best form, advertised as a place for sensible Hindus with a burning love for the burning country.
Knowing Kashmiri attitude towards written word, and knowing the writings of Baburao, it should not surprise anyone that in early 50s, maybe to the much annoyance of Thassu Saheb, FilmIndia was banned in Kashmir. And it should not equally surprise anyone that the he actually thought of Kashmirs as lazy buggers, back-stabbers and that India would be lot better without Kashmir, and that his ‘Indian Muslim Brother’ would have (pose?) no problem. Now where have we heard that pragmatic solution and views before in recent times.

Time a quite a thing.

From being the pioneer of film journalism, by 1970s Baburao Patel, his FilmIndia run-over by Filmfare, was running a publication called ‘Mother India’ (a copy of which I have managed to get my hands on) and in it selling slogans like ‘Hindus of the world arise’, ‘Stop it mod-women’  and in between these slogans he was selling all kind of ayurvedic churans for every known human disease.

All said and done, I would not have been surprised if on any other day, in any other situation, to any other question, Baburao Patel would have simply told Thassu Saheb of Srinagar, ‘My friend, it is well-known advise, never take the advise of a man who at the end of the day is selling you a magic Churan of his own make.’

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lyrics, ‘ya tuli khanjar’

I heard it for the first time a couple of years back at a cousin’s Menzraat. When musicians played the first note, a collective ‘Aah’ rose from half asleep audience. It was obviously a crowd favorite. Into the first stanza, some old folks were already singing along, not always out of rhyme, sometime already lip synching into next stanza.

I did a post about the song, it remains one of the most popular post at this blog. Someone would occasionally ask for the lyrics. Although this was one of the few Kashmiri songs that I  actually understood, at least if in parts, I  found it tough to write down the lyrics to this song. I have seen even old folks struggle with some words while listening to these old folk songs, and occasionally going ‘Aaa’ on  figuring out some twist of phrase.

These ‘Aas’ and ‘Ahhs’ remain private joys and despairs, I believed. My belief was wrong.

Last night,  I came across the lyrics to the song and the name of its composer in a little book called ‘Kashmiri Lyrics’ (first published in 1945) by J.L. Kaul, revised and edited by Neerja Mattoo (2008). [Original edition , free Download here]

The song was written by Abdul Ahad Nazim (1807-65) also known as Waiz Shah Nur-ud-din , considered the finest nat writer of Kashmir (that would explain the religious intonations at the beginning of popularly sung version of the composition).

Lyrics.

yim zar vanahas bardar
karsana su yar boze
ya tui khanjar ta mare
na ta sani shabha roze


mas dyutnam kalavalan
chivaravnas akiy pyalan
chum duri ruzith zalan
karsana dava soze


kya mati goy myon kinay
atish bortham sinay
ashakh kamisana dinay
marun rava roze


bithith khalvath khanas
mushtakh panay panas
ashakh manz varanas
mashokh tanha roze


bulbul bihith ba gul
mushtakh az gul bilkul
nay rozi bulbul ta nay gul
akh lola kathah roze




kya mati karitham sitam
Nizam chu praran yitam
chus tashna darshun ditam
yi dam na pagah roze

Neerja Mattoo’s translation:

At his threshold my wailing I would utter,
O when will my love listen to me? –
I would that he did slay me,
Or else requite my love

The brewer of love gave me a cup of wine,
A single cup made me delirious and drunken,
I could not contain myself for joy;
But now he keeps off and causes me pain –
O when will he give me another draught
of the wine of love?

Love, why are you angry with me?
You have filled my breast with the smart of love.
Is it fair to let me suffer and die?

Alone, in a lonely tower,
the beloved sits, unconcerned for love;
while the lover roams desolate plains,
Will the beloved keep aloof from him?

The bulbul nestles close to the rose,
Doting in it and deep in love;
soon the bulbul and the roses die,
only a memory of love remains.

How cruel you have been to me!
Athirst for love, I am waiting for you
O come and show yourself –
This hour won’t last,
tomorrow brings another day

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“Great Weaver from Kashmir”

I’ve made a pact with the Lord about becoming the most perfect man on earth . . . remade so that I might compose perfect poems on the beauty of God. . . . I am the Great Weaver from Kashmir.” Well, then. “I think you might have lost your marbles,” says Dilja. 

~’The Great Weaver From Kashmir‘ or ‘Vefarinn Mikli frá Kasmír’ (1927) by Icelandic novelist Halldór Laxness.

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Image: Man weaving cashmere shawl (1924). via New York State Archives.

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 Buy The Great Weaver from Kashmir from Flipkart.com

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