Had we been in Srinagar, for first Shivratri after marriage, my family would have sent me to climb Shankaracharya, but here we are in Jammu. So, we decided to visit the Peer Khoh caves. I agreed as I had good memories of the place. I had last visited the place in around 1991. In second year of exile, we used to live a nearby old city mohalla. My grandfather used to take me along to the caves for his morning walk session.
I remember the place as a cold, damn place that used to stay cool even is worst of summers. The breeze that gently blows in this area is allows cool even if rest of the city is simmering. Centuries ago visiting mendicants must have found these cool caves perfect for camping. In local lore the cave was said to have been home of Jambava, the great bear of Ramayan. In early 15th century, the place became camping spot of Gorakhnath sect. Maybe, like at other places around India, Gorakhnath sect here too had close ties with the rulers.
But, all this was long ago. In 1990s, the caves retained their wild element, the floor of the cave used to be damp, no lights insides and hardly any people; however nothing of that old mystery now remains. The cave walls and floor are now cemented and there are air conditioning ducts all inside. There is a priest inside who mimics the monetary cave culture of Vaishno Devi. You get in line, pay money and move out fast. The cave have been urbanised.
Arabic Minaret, Japanese Train, Haridwar Temple, Mediaeval fort. |
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