Kashmiri Brahmins of Francis Frith, 1875

I first came across this image some years ago on columbia.edu site who in turn had picked it from ebay. Cited as ‘Kashmiri Brahmans’ and photographed by Francis Frith in around 1875, the image offered an enigma in the sense that its subjects seemed out of place, all the other photographs of Kashmiri Pandits taken during that era has pandit in his usual place, handling scrolls or roaming around temples. So who were these Brahmans and what were doing with those bundles of cloths?

 I have finally managed to get through to the answers that this image demanded. The photograph is used and explained in ‘The Jummoo and Kashmir Territories: A Geographical Account’ (1875) by Frederic Drew. An excerpt:

First, standing out marked and separate from the rest, are the Pandits. These are the Hindu remainder of the nation, the great majority of which were converted to Islam. Sir George Campbell supposes that previously the mass of the population of Kashmir was Brahman. An examination of the subdivisional castes of both Pandits and Muhammadans, if it were made, might enable us to settle this question. Whatever may be the case as to that, we certainly see that at this day the only Kashmiri Hindus are Brahmans. These whatever their occupation-whether that be of a writer, or, may be, of a tailor or clothseller – always bear the title “Pandit” which, in other parts of India, is confined to those Brahmans who are learned in their theology. 

The Kashmiri Pandits have that same fine cast of features which is observed in the cultivating class. The photograph given, after one of Mr. Frith’s, is a good representation of two cloth- sellers who are Pandits, or Brahmans. When allowance has been made far an unbecoming dress, and for the disfigurement caused by tho caste-mark on the forehead, I think it will be allowed that they are of a fine stock. Of older men, the features become more marked in form and stronger in expression, and the face is often thoroughly handsome. In complexion the Pandits are lighter than the peasantry; their colour is more that of the almond.
These Brahmans are less used to laborious work than the Muhammadan Kashmiris. Their chief occupation is writing : great numbers of them get their living by their pen, as Persian writers (for in the writing of that language they are nearly all adepts), chiefly in the Government service. Trade, also, they follow, as we see ; but they are not cultivators, nor do they adopt any other calling that requires much muscular exertion. From this it happens that they are not spread generally over the country; they cluster in towns. Sirinagar, especially, has a considerable number of them; they have been estimated at a tenth of the whole of its inhabitants.

Reader may make allowance of Drew’s ‘i believe because I believe’ assertion that Pandits were not cultivators.

Kashmiri Pandit women working the fields, 1890.  [Update: They appear to be working in  field, dying cloth and yarn here]








Reader may also make allowance of the fact the Drew didn’t get into the breakdown of Kashmiri Pandits into Karkun Bhattas (Working Class Pandits, into Govt. Jobs, into Persian, the one described by Drew) and Basha Bhattas (Language Class Pandits, into Religious affairs, into Sanskrit, the one usually photographed with scrolls, Gors, Pandits, the ones that much later often derogatorily referred at Byechi Bhattas (?) or Begging Class Pandits). Besides that there were minority called Buhur, or the Trader Class, someone more likely to take up a trade like clothselling.


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Kashmiri Refugees, 1947-48

 A news bureau photograph of Kashmiri refugees who had been driven from their homes by the turmoil of 1947.

A group of refugees from Kashmir, who arrived at the Pakistan border recently are shown as they moved down from the mountains. Group were reportedly fleeing “the invaders from India.” They were ill-clad and suffering from the effects of hunger and hardship after their long trek to the order.

via: Columbia.edu
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People who became refugees on this side of order. Stories of Dakotas and people carrying mothers on back were to become part of local folkfore.

“Air-evacuation of thousands of refugees to welfare centre was among the numerous tasks which the Transport-squadron of RIAF successfully carried cut during Kashmir Operations in 1948. An aged refugee couple from Poonch area, their sons killed and daughters abducted by the raiders, on their way on an airstrip in a forward area for air evacuation by an RIAF Dakota to a refugee welfare centre.” – April 1948. (Photodivison India)

    Air-evacuation of thousands of refugees to welfare centre was among the numerous tasks which the Transport-squadron of RIAF successfully carried cut during Kashmir Operations in 1948. A refugee family from Poonch area.
– April 1948. (Photodivison India)
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Kashmir around 1915

Photographs from ‘Our summer in the vale of Kashmir’ (1915) by Frederick Ward Denys.

A ‘Bathing Spot’ at Achabal. Interestingly, most other writers didn’t given credit to Kashmiris when it came to bathing.

 Ruins of Avantipur

 Baramulla

 Bhaniyar or Buniar or Bhavaniyar Temple, on the road between Uri and Naoshera.

British Polo Team

 British Residency

 Camp Site at Chenar Bagh, a favorite of western tourists.

 Reverend C.E. Tyndale Biscoe being conferred Kaiser-i-Hind in 1912.

 Chenar Bagh

 “In all things be Men”. CMS School, at Fateh Kadal.

Gate of Biscoe School, at Lal Chowk. 2008. [previously]

 Ekka

 English Church. Church = religious Freedom. Temple atop hill = autocratic power. These were less interesting and simple times!

 Food Bazar. [Check out rate of various commodities in Kashmir back then ]

 Gulmarg Entrance.

Gulmarg Entrance 2008

 Hari Singh.

His temple singers. 2009. Check the headgear.

 K2?

 Kanz and Mool being used for pounding rice. [Photograph by R.E. Shorter]

 Kashmiri Cricket team at Gulmarg (?)

 Fakir

Houseboat named ‘Diana’.

Houseboat named Neil Armstrong. Over Dal. 2008.

Playing Saz-long. [Update: Photographer James Ricalton, 1903]

Musicians and Dancing girls (figure on left, in foreground, looks more like Bacha).

A Domestic Rice Mill: The charm of Kashmir is that it is distinctively itself. A walk through the bazaars, the huts and factories presents a living panorama of the India of the imagination. Here are to be seen the flashing colors, the turbaned heads and the picturesque groups of the populace at work and at play.
[Update: Photographer James Ricalton, 1903]

One more addition to the witches of Kashmir

Children weaving rugs

Killing the demons of Wular. .

River Lidar near Gulmarg

Lidar Valley above Pahalgam

Life around River Jhelum

Royal Post Tonga carrying mail

Martand

Mission Hospital

The Srinagar Club, always the scene of life and gaiety, has an ideal setting in the shade of a magnificent chenar grove on the mirrored waters of the Jhelum with the Takhat as a background.

Nishat Bagh

Temple of Pandrathan, when the tank was dry.

Plowing

Poplar Avenue. [Update: Photographer James Ricalton, 1903]

Rest house at Chakoti

Rest-house at Domel

Seventh Bridge or Saffa Kadal

Shankaracharya

Sher Garhi Temple. On right side of the image can be seen the dome of Gadhadhar Temple or Shri Sanatan Dharam Sabha. [Details of the temple here]

Shisha Nag Glacier

No one in Kashmir is in hurry. What isn’t done today will certainly be done tomorrow. But tomorrow is very slow in arriving.

Third Bridge on Jehlum, Fateh Kadal

The suspension bridge at Uri

View from Shankaracharya hill

Human Welcome. ‘While many think that the present rulers of India only play at royalty, that their thrones are but pleasing conceits and their scepters empty baubles allowed to them by an indulgent overlord, the Maharaja of Kashmir is a free agent in all material things and the allegiance of the populace to him is very real.’

That note makes this image all the more ironic.
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The Romantic Kashmir, 1906


Photographs from ‘The Romantic East: Burma, Assam, & Kashmir’ by Walter Del Mar (1906)

 Shankracharya Hill

 Wular Lake

 Bund

Sher Garhi Palace, the Summer place of 19th-century Dogra ruler, Pratap Singh. Most of it destroyed in a fire some years ago.

Fateh Kadal

Biscuit Tin Temple [ Shri Sanatan Dharam Sabha or  Gadhadhar Temple near Sher Garhi Palace ]

I believe the above image is of the Gadhadhar Temple or the Shri Sanatan Dharam Sabha as it looked in 40s. This was also the site of old Secretariat.  [Check comments on post Kashmir in 1945 ]

Update: Thanks to questioning by Man Mohan Ji and some subsequent self-questioning, I now believe that the above image is not of Gadhadhar Temple  of Srinagar but may well be of Gadhadhar Temple of Jammu. It seems that Dogras built two temples with the same name in the two capitals of their Kingdom.  [Check comments for more on this.]

Update: The above image may in fact be of a Jain temple in Calcutta. Check original post (Kashmir in 1945) for updates.

Kashmiri Beauties

Jama Masjid or The Great Mosque

Zaina Kadal, the fourth Bridge

Shah Hamadan

Hari Pabat

On the River, 1906

On the River, 2008

Jhelum Bank

Leaving on House Boat

A village on Naru Canal

Duck Hunter near Sopore. He is re-winding the turban to be photographed. His musket, lashed to the boat, projects forward.

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Mohanlal Aima, 1964

Mohanlal Aima singing to a group of tourists on a houseboat on Nagin Lake in 1964.
Found this photograph by James Burke at Life Magazine archive

James Burke has caught this prolific Kashmiri musician at a delightful moment. It the classic stance of a Kashmiri singer. As the backing artists pick up the refrain, as the tempo picks up, the lead singer spreads out his arms like an eagle, doesn’t close his eyes, looks his audience, his patron for the night, straight in the eye, and trying to keep his neck unmoving, moves his head left-right-left-right even as his shoulders blades shove the arms, right-left-right-left. And then the arms drop.

Museum, Old and New

Recently, I got an email from someone involved in the design of the New Museum in Kashmir. He had stumbled across my blog, found it interesting and wanted to know if I would like to connect with their project. I was delighted. A new museum in Kashmir. I don’t know how things would roll on that front. But for now, I would like to share these photographs of the first museum of Kashmir:

In 1898, after a proposal from a European scholar, Captain S.H. Godmerry, Maharaja Pratap Singh converted the Ranbir Singh Palace in Srinagar into the Pratap Singh Museum [official website]. Most old-timers remember it as the museum near Bund. The  rare photographs of the building posted here are from around year 1905, a year of great flood and great winter,, and taken from a book called ‘The romantic East Burma, Assam, & Kashmir’ (1906) by Walter Del Mar. I had stumbled across it a couple of years back somewhere in the web, the images from this book stayed with me even as the details of the books got blurred after I lost my ‘bookmarks’ in a system crash. Last  night, as a browsed through a book at archive.org, I recognized the lost images.

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Hanji’s Love Song

Photograph from A lonely summer in Kashmir (1904) by Margaret Cotter Morison.
[more photographs from the book here]

Hanji’s Love Song

You are my flower, and I would fain adore you
With love and golden gifts for all my days;
Burn scented oil in silver lamps before you,
Pour perfume on your feet with prayer and praise
For we are one – round me your graces fling
Their chains, my heart to you for aye I gave –
One in the perfect sense our poets sing,
“Gold and the bracelet, water and the wave.”

From ‘Afoot Through the Kashmir Valleys’ (1901) by Marion Doughty. [Photographs from the book here]

Gun Men

A product of Vincent Brooks Day & Son, Ltd., London from “Our visit to Hindostán, Kashmir, and Ladakh” (1879) by MRS J. C. MURRAY AYNSLEY. This was part of the book, but had nothing to do with Kashmir.
Indian and European Hunters with Guns and Trophies Outside Tents at Their Camp 1864 (Via: Smithsonian Photography Initiative) By  Samuel Bourne.

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KP, KM, 1928

A Kashmiri Pandit (L) and a Kashmiri Muslim (R) in 1928. Captured by Martin Hurlimann.
Came across these two photographs at ebay. The photographer, unidentified.

Prayers at Hazratbal

Came across this incredible image in a book called ‘Bonfire of Kashmiriyat: Deconstructing the accession’ (2006) by Sandeep Bamzai ( It’s a nifty book to check out if you are into getting the initial timeline, dates, events right). My first thoughts were Henri Cartier Bresson and the people looking at the hair. But the book doesn’t credit any photographer and just explains it as ‘A huge crowd listens to Shiekh Abdullah’.
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The famous Cartier Bresson:

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