Vigil

May 11, 2011

Somehow it didn’t come as a surprise. It made sense, in a way. Yet it felt strange. This eager assimilation. Jagrata a day before Mendiraat ceremony! Jagarata may well be a common social event for most North Indian Hindus but I guess for Kashmiri Pandits it is a new way of expressing old religiosity. Cousins weren’t very excited about it, even a bit disappointed.’We have seen enough Jagarata in Delhi. We came for a Kashmiri Mehendi Raat.’

The event was hosted by most political Uncle of mine, ‘Stupid-Liberals-Glory-Be-Our-Culture’ kind, a kind now assumed to be quite common among Kashmiri people. Back in Kashmir, this Uncle of mine was thick with guys who went on to be the local representatives of JKLF. Thickness of this relationship can be measured by the fact that he even went for business partnership with some of them. He and these guys bought a Gypsy together which they would lent out to anyone in need. It must have been a profitable venture as this partnership didn’t last very long. After his partners short-changed him, relations turned so sour that his old mother had to intervene and get back his investment amount from these guys. Kashmiri Pandits and Kashmiri Muslims, it seems interacted based some unwritten principle of chivalry or bonhomie or whatever it may be called Kashmiriyat, Sanjha Chulha…whatever. ‘Why else would they have paid back the money at all? They could have turned the woman away! They could have taken over property without having to pay a single paisa.’

But by the end of 80s, principles were put to real test and people failed.

‘He had applied for Police service some years earlier. Made it to the training. It didn’t work out. His nose had a bleeding problem. It wasn’t meant for him.’

‘Is that why his name figured in that local Hitlist? Or was it because of his interest in politics, because of his writings or because of the kind of friends he always managed to find?’

‘Who knows? But he was on that bus out of Kashmir with your Veena bua when… ‘

‘The bus met with an accident near Khooni Nala and his front teeth got chipped. I know the story. Badi Mummy, back in Kashmir made Taher to thanks Gods. I know the story.’

After spending a decade in Bangalore where he took active part in community affairs, my Uncle came back to Jammu and was soon forging new friendships and reporting on Pandit affairs in Jammu for community magazines,

Musicians called for Mehandi Raat were the same Dogra musicians, the same Jagrata crew but this time center stage was held by a woman. For a while it was interesting to watch a Dogri woman shuffle between Kashmiri songs, Punjabi songs, Sufi songs and film songs, trying earnestly to get some kind of mojo going, but after sometime it became a drag, after all this is not what one expects from a Menzraat. The woman left just before mid-night but before leaving she apologized to the host’s old mother for her rendition of Kashmiri songs, ‘Mataji Mujhay Kashmiri nahi aati. Try kiya.’.

The old woman blessed her,’Ahee! Ahee! Bahut Acha Kiya!’

Later in the night, Bhabhi, my uncle’s old mother was on stage herself singing along with Sunny Bhaiya, a nephew of my uncle. Sunny Bhaiya sang a crowd favorite Kashmiri song about Jammu as Kashmiri Pandits first saw it. ‘Ye che Jem’ich Matador.Ye che Jem’ich Matador’ is a satire on Tata Matadors of Jammu, the common mode of transport in that city. Someone back in those dark found humor in crammed existence of community in Jammu. This ought to count for something. ‘Very humanizing, indeed.’

Next he sang a funny song about a woman who weighs in her options on the kind of guy she can marry, ‘Mummy’yay be Be Kyuthi Ghar’e Kariye’. Of course she rejects all kinds, some are fat, some are lazy, some are poor, some are lame…stuff like that…

‘He is a really great guy. Great job. Good nature. Decent. He could have easily married. Only his legs condition…’

I remember Sunny Bhaiya from our Panjtarthi days in monkey infested old Jammu city. We were putting up in the Durbar Hall of some Dewan’s Kothi. We divided up the hall into rooms and kitchen using bed-curtains. There were at least seven other Pandit families living in other room of the ‘Palace’, but all sharing one latrine. We had space. Sunny Bhaiya’s family was living nearby. He was always full of life, never let his ‘leg condition’ dampen the spirit of something like Holi celebrations. He would come charging in, all painted red and green, ready to tear people’s clothing on Holi.

‘It’s surprising how these ill-tuned amplifiers are in fact capable of transmitting real music. He can really sing.’

Next he sang a song about Kashmiri Pandit’s and their loss of Chinar Shade, ‘Ase Chu Rovmut Boonyi Shejar’ or something like that. Everyone, old, was singing along, everyone was pensive.

‘That’s a Panun Kashmir anthem. Do you realize that?’

Next day, on the day of Baraat, I got into a light conversation with Sunny Bhaiya. I don’t know how it happened but soon we were discussing massacres.

‘It never happened. It’s all a Muslim lie. 20000 people. Is that possible? All propaganda.’

‘It did happen. It was terrible. People did die,’ intervened my Uncle’s Dogra neighbor who must have overheard our heated discussion.

‘Our family came from the other side of LOC that time around. There was in terrible bloodshed in 1947. Who do you think ran Kashmir back then ? Take a guess. It was Dogras. We lost a lot. We were rich…’

And then he went into glorious past. I was back to wondering how in popular memory of India the golden question was ‘How come Kashmir was peaceful in 1947 when the whole country was burning?’ I guess Gandhi is partly to blame for this simple assumption, after all he did ask rest of the India to take lessons of brotherhood from Kashmir. And now no one cares about testaments of people who back in 1947 were moving into what is today ‘Indian Held Kashmir’ from what is today ‘Pakistan Occupied Kashmir’. Our minds held and occupied by cosy inconsequential pneumatics of conflict

‘It’s all propaganda. Maybe something happened. But 20000. I know handle these lies.’

It turned out Sunny Bhaiya spends a lot of time online fighting Kashmir trolls. Think Rediff forums, comment section of newspapers and Youtube videos. I tried to explain to him how actually fighting an online troll essentially makes a troll out of you too.

‘I make my bread and butter based on my ability to understand behavior of  people online. Listen. I make social games. It’s a game you play. It’s a game you don’t want to play in real life. You are deadlocked in a game-play that doesn’t have any logical out in any case.’

‘You have grown up.’
‘You can really sing.’

On the day of reception, other guests arrived. There was head of one section of Panun Kashmir and there was poet-writer-father-of-a-writer exilee.

‘Come take a picture.’ I was called to take a group photograph. Through the viewfinder I saw more than a dozen people.

‘No everyone will come in the frame.’
‘Go back a little more. Everyone should come.’

My uncle was with his colleagues (or should that be ex-colleague) from Kashmir. These were his old Kashmiri Muslim friends from work. And I counted a couple of women too. It seem the entire department had come. It was an open invite and all of them had come to attend the wedding of my ‘Stupid-Liberals-Glory-Be-Our-Culture’ Uncle’s daughter, the youngest of my cousins, the last of them born in Kashmir.

Among this group, I was able to identify at least one face from my memory of Kashmir. He used to visit our house a lot to meet up with my Uncle. This was my ‘Stupid-Liberals-Glory-Be-Our-Culture’ Uncle’s best buddy from office.

In case of Kashmir, this inverted part of the world, I think it would be better if people start preaching what they actually practice.

‘Smile Please. Closer.Closer. Say Fakeer.’

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Some wildlife from Jammu Division

[There photographs (and captions) were sent in by Man Mohan Munshi Ji. he tells me that back in his days he was quite a hunter but has now turned a conservationist.]

Chitals on a river bed during dry season
Giant Lizards at higher reaches of Basoli- Bhadarwah track

Himalayan Black Bear, Wardan Valley, Kishtwar
Peacock perched on a Mauruti 800 at outskirts of Jammu
Resus monkeys perched  in a three tire position on a Deodar Tree
Russel’s Viper in my backyard

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River Tawi (Surya Putri)

Sent in by Man Mohan Munshi Ji. He writes:

River Tawi ( referred in ancient literature as Surya Putri) originates near Kaplas Mountains and flows westward between Jug Dhar and Trisul Dhar in a westerly direction till Udhampur where it takes a southerly bend across the Sivalik range  and again resumes a westerly course passing along the Jammu City  till it joins Chenab River in Sialkot District in Pakistan.

 

Tawi River near its source at Basantgarh
At Jammu City
River Tawi near Jammu City with Bahu Bridge in the foreground and main Tawi bridge in the back ground
Mahatmaya temple  on the left bank of  Tawi opposite old Jammu City
Part of Old jammu city  from Baghe Bahu.
Note the “Golgarh”  old palace of the Dogra Rulers  on the extreme left

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Akhnur Fort

Sent in by Man Mohan Munshi Ji.

Two views of the Historic Akhnur Fort on the bank of Chenab (Chandrar Bagha) River. Raj Tilak of Raja Gulab Singh, the founder of Dogra Dynasty, was performed here by Maharaja Ranjit Singh.

Old Photographs of Jammu

Map of Jammu City. Company Period Punjab. 1880-90 A.D.
First (Suspension) Bridge over River Tawi, Jammu. (1788 A.D.)
A Thirsty Special Train.
First Train to Jammu from Sailkot. 19th Cent. A.D.

Old Photograph of Raghunath Temple.
The Triumphal Arch in the Jammu Town.
Water Tank (Now Vanished) attached to Raghunath Mandir Jammu. 19th Century A.D.

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Ruins around Jammu

From the incredible collection of Man Mohan Munshi Ji.

Carving of Hanuman on a boulder in Dry river bed near Billawar (formerly Vallapura)
in Kathua District

Next six photographs are of temple ruins at Chediai (North of Tikri on Jammu-Srinagar Highway). Needless to say that the site is in need of restoration and preservation.

A channel for water erected on arches for a waterfall( now dry)
Statues of Lord Shiva and Parvati  mounted on Nandi and Garuda
Lord Kama (Hindu God of love ) mounted on peacock
Lord Vishnu and Brahama. And Vishnu as Matsya Avatar
Unidentified. [Right one is probably Krishna riding Kalia the serpent]
A  Pillar partly broken

Next set of photographs are of other places of interest around Jammu.

Temple of Sankpal (a local Deity) close to Sanna Sar
Temple at Cheni( architecture resembling to that of Kirmachi)
What is left of Basoli Palace cum fort
Riasi Fort recently renovated

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To the Library

While growing up, a visit to the public library was a monthly affair. My grandfather would take me with him to the library to borrow and return books. While he would pick his books, I would walk around its dark, cool alleys lined with rows of books, unordered, picking books that would interest me, reading a passage, picking torn, single, yellowed pages that usually lay at the bottom of the pile, or lay hurriedly buried between other books. Reading, with a feeling that I could easily spend my life there. Books, so many of them. What more can life offer, I would think. My grandfather would invariable pick on history, fiction – short stories and novels, Indian and non-Indian, essays – on politics and literature, poetry, theosophy, philosophy and religion. On a membership card which let him borrow at most three or four books, in any odd combination of these picks, any given month, a bunch of books would invariable find their way to me. While my grandfather would take notes in a diary, scribbling a line or a passage of his linking from a book (my father lamenting his father’s bad memory), I slowly mastered the ability to finish a month’s quota of books in a week and still be hungry for more, ready to goad him into visiting the dingy old library again.

Jammu is an old city. Or rather now a city of the old.

During last couple of years, on my in-frequent trips back to the city, going through his book shelf, I realized my grandfather’s pick had gone down to mostly books like ‘Vairagya Satakam’ by Bhartari and maybe a book on Kashmir. Checking the library card told me his trips to the library weren’t religiously regular anymore. 

Last week, on my most recent short trip to the city, he complained about watery eyes and blurred vision. Not to be outdone, I told him I have the same problem somedays. I am told on some days he forgets that he has already had lunch. I am told only on some days it is because of memory, rest of the time he is in fact hungry. Decade and a half of diabetes (which he has managed quite well with his active and clean lifestyle) and two operations for cerebral hemorrhage, second one just after a trip to Kashmir a couple of years ago, have taken a toll on his health.

Still. At Menzraat function of a cousin sister, pulling me aside, an uncle told me to accompany my grandfather to the banquet hall and have him eat something. So I slow walked with my grandfather to the hall, taking one step at a time, climbing stairs, him holding my hand. Inside, as I prepared to have a plate ready for him, I asked him what would he like to have. He smiled and took the thumb of his right hand to his mouth. Confused for a moment, I realized he was signing for booze. Signalling again, he asked, ‘Where are they drinking tonight?’ He wanted to know where were the men of the house drinking.  In a typical Kashmiri manner, most of the drink on such family events is done in private, away from the women and elders, probably in some corner room next to the kitchen. As I laughed my heart out, I walked my grandfather, a life long ‘almost teetotaller’, who was now in a celebratory mode looking to ‘wet his beak’, and led him straight to the lair of drinkers.

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This time I had the opportunity to re-visit the library with an Uncle, my Mamaji, who wanted me to check out some old photographs of Jammu that were shown in a recent exhibition at Kala Kendar of Jammu (apparently it had a surprisingly good response from the city dwellers) and that are now placed in the ‘Reference Section’ of the library. The last time I remember going out on such an outing with Mamaji on his Scooter, we were in Kashmir, I must have been seven and he took me to surprise trip to ‘Exhibition Ground’ where I got to see ‘maut ka kuan‘ and cocoons getting boiled for silk.

This trip wasn’t as dramatic but it was just as fun. My Mamaji had reference of someone, a reference always helps in such endeavors, but that someone had since been transferred to some other office. The new person in his seat, wasn’t in office, so to see (and possibly photograph the collection) instead we had to deal with two kindly looking aunties who (probably intimidated by a camera and beguiled by my ‘educated’ air)  kept asking if I hadn’t photographed their official desk that had a bunch of tiffin boxes, half-open, placed over newspapers. It was almost lunch time. I told them it is understandable. They thought I was from some cable channel or such. (Ah! My educated air!)

I told them the purpose of the visit. There were complications. In absence of  a senior officer they couldn’t let me photograph the collection. They had strict orders prohibiting it. In Jammu, photography is prohibited even in exhibitions. The reason, an old official one: if we let everyone have what we have, who will come to us. And so history remains in offices.

It told them I understood and dropped my camera next to a tiffin. As we discussed copyright issues, some how conversation took an interesting turn (actually you just have to say, ‘Look at west’ ). One of the women went to tell an anecdote that according to her summed up the issue: Tagore went to America, to its most famous library, and asked them to show him their most prized possession. They brought forth a book bound in golden (or something precious like that, she added in after thought). Tagore (that should be Vivekananda, was my early-thought) was expecting to see a Bible or something from the west, but he was astonished, and beaming with pride, to see The Bhagavad Gita. ‘We don’t care about out things,’ the woman added as she passed a big thickly bound catalogue of old images.

It was a collection photographs shot by lesser known Raj era photographers Herzog & Higgins and dated early 1920s. The collection has some incredible photographs of old Jammu – Mubarak Mandi, Raghunath temple, Tawi and some rare panoramic shot of Jammu city. Sadly, most of these panoramic shots are, for the sake of convince, cut into two in the pages of the book.

Another collection of old photographs included photographs of a royal marriage – Maharaja of Jammu & Kashmir on an invite to some other Kingdom (Kishangarh?). Kings shooting, riding elephants, stuff like that.

I was kind of disappointed that I couldn’t capture some of the incredible scenes I saw (those in the city must check it out). There were places I could recognize like the old secretariat at Mubarak Mandi, for sometime in early 90s, we lived in old area surrounding this place, view from Tawi river (although its sparseness was shocking), my father’s childhood favorite Ragunath Mandir ( but with a view an ancient water tank that is long gone).

I realize like most urban spaces in this region, Jammu too is essentially built upon an ancient tomb. A tomb not only whose last traces are getting fast buried but even the memory of which is fast fading, buried in forced apathy.

As I start to walk out of the library, one of the kindly women suggested that we should go to Kala Kendar where some of the old photographs are still on display. So my uncle kick stated his scooter and we were on our way to a building that all this time I believed to be a government hotel or a tourist center.

Ranbir Public Library, Kachi Chawni
The way to reference section
Inside

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