Kashmiri Boatmen in Mughal river fleet

Ruler on a boat with attendants
17th century, reign of Jahangir
British Museum

“Nawara, these boats were fashioned into fanciful shapes such as wild animals, etc. They were roofed in at one end, which was covered with broad cloth; they were better finished and lighter than a common boat (kishti). The boatmen were mostly from Kashmir and used Kashmiri calls to each other when working.

~ From a footnote in Later Mughals (1922) by William Irvine. Source is given as Mirat-Ul-Istilah (1745) of Anand Ram Mukhlis who gives a description of Babar’s boating experience.

Nawara, the word among Mughals for river fleet, may now be an unfamiliar term in South Asia but boat people in another part of Asia recognize it. It is part of boat legends of Myanmar.

Previously:

Nusrat Jang got Stabbed

Portrait of Khan Dauran Bahadur Nusrat Jang,
Folio from the Shah Jahan Album. Painting by Murad
via: The Emperors’ Album: Images of Mughal
India 

Khan Dauran Bahadur Nusrat Jang [Victorious in War], Viceroy of the Deccan and one of Shah Jahan’s leading soldiers. Holder of highest imperial rank held by a person of non-royal blood. Murdered in sleep on the night of 2 July 1645 using a dagger into the stomach by the son of a Kashmiri Brahmin, whom he had converted to Islam and enrolled among the number of his personal attendants. At the news of his death the people of Burhanput [M.P.] emptied the shops of sweets to give away in thanksgiving. The attacker, was immediately caught and killed.

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Based on The Shah Jahan Nama of ‘Inayat Khan.


Santosh Painter

Cut out this bit about Ghulam Rasool Santosh (Srinagar, 1929 – Delhi, 1997) from docu “Contemporary Indian Painting” (1985) by K. Bikram Singh. [Full film here]. famous for paintings replete with tantric motifs. Trained under N.S. Bendre.

Gandharbal Kashmir by N.S. Bendre.
Previously: Kashmir Canvas of Bombay Progressives

G. R. appended his Hindu wife’s name ‘Santosh’ to his after marriage. Daughter married a Hindu and son a Sikh. Lived in Delhi.

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Add caption

My favorite G. R. Santosh anecdote that I first heard at Hari Parbat from an uncle:

When pandits started building a ‘modern-updated’ temple on Parbat, G. R. Santosh was a much saddened man. He had spent quite some time studying the hill looking for tantric motifs in its rocks, offering an entire aesthetic theory based on what he saw in the hill.  Now there was a wall coming around the main syen’der-ed rock. He pleaded, he cried, told them to stop and not mess with the yantra. The work continued. A new temple  came up around a rock caught in between marbled walls. A work that still continues.

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Mother Parbat Split


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Khayyam’s Parbaton Ke Pedon Par Shaam for film Shagoon (1964) and Kashmiri Bhajan ‘Maej Sharika’ sung by Kailash Mehra as it is by most pandits.

It seems to have been a trend in Kashmir.  Trilokinath Raina in his book “Ghulam Ahmad Mahjoor” mentions that some songs of the poet were set to popular Hindi film songs of the time.

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Kashmiri Pandits by Pandit Anand Koul, 1924

Around 1881, 14-year old Pandit Anand Koul was one of the first Kashmiri to join the missionary school set up in Srinagar by Rev. John Smith Doxey. In around 1883, the working of this school was taken over by Rev. J. Hinton Knowles. Knowles in around 1885 went on famously to document the folklore of Kashmir, a task in which he was assisted by a young Pandit Anand Koul. In around 1895, Knowles made Anand Koul Headmaster of this missionary school. This proximity with the missionaries probably made him understand the need for documenting culture in ‘other’ language.

Pandit Anand Koul’s book on Kashmiri Pandits can be considered first book written in English on pandits by a Pandit. Around 1921, the population of Pandits in the valley was around 55000. Of this around 5000 men and 50 women were literate in English. While reading this book, it is comprehensible that the book was written primary for non-Kashmiri readers and written by a man quite proud of his origins and passionate about documenting the history of his land. This passion was later inherited by his son P.N.K. Bamzai who went on to be even more prolific at documenting Kashmir’s History.

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Index of Content:

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Download link

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Previously:

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The Pundits of Kashmir by J.J. Modi, 1915

Jivanji Jamshedji Modi’s paper ‘The Pundits of Kashmir’ (1915) for Journal of the Anthropological Society of Bombay (Vol. X, No. 6, pp. 401-85) was probably one of the first writing on pandits that looked at them from the prism of an ethnographic questionnaire. An interesting work because some of the topics touched here were mostly left unsaid by Pandit writers of the time.

Check: An additional division of Pandits along language spoken, Malechchas of Mirkhula as Zoroastrian fire worshipers, no marriage with outsiders, no talking in front of elders for married couple, no to polyandry but yes some cases of polygamy, mechanics of divorce, dressing differences between followers of Shiva and those of Shakti, river in Lar as nakali Ganga, rare cases of private prostitution, yes to meat, no to beef, pork and eggs, no to onions, tomatoes, carrots as they can cause ‘excitement’, can only eat uncooked food sitting with other Hindus and no food with others, yes to opium, charas and wine while some non-pandit Kashmiris brew Kehwa with snuff.

Read:

Download link

We have come a long way.

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Unrelated post:

Vessels Redux

Above: Martand shot by Brian Brake in around 1957.

Below: A photograph of an old terracotta Kashmiri vessel brought to Jammu along with other things. Shared around two years ago by Man Mohan Munshi ji.

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Kashmir in Kerala film fest

I spent this Sunday doing nothing but watching films and just films. Traveled from Cochin to Trivandrum to catch some short films made by Kashmiris on the “Pandit” experience.

First up was in “showcase” segment Siddharth Gigoo’s The Last Day (12 min.). Siddharth Gigoo was already was a poet, then a novelist and now he is a filmmaker. The scene he picked to shoot is something that a lot a pandit’s witnessed and can relate to. Old pandits slow dying in Jammu with fading memories of Kashmir. The execution is simple. Not bad for a first attempt.

Second up was Rajesh Jala’s 23 Winters (30 min.), competing in ‘Fiction’ category. The story follows the “Back to Kashmir” trip of a pandit in Delhi named Bhota (a popular nickname among pandits of a certain generation) who is suffering from schizophrenia. It makes strong use of visuals and sounds to put the viewer in the mind of the protagonist. The experience is unnerving. Specially when you know it is not fiction.

The director was present at the function, so later had a little chat with him over a coffee (which he generously sponsored). Rajesh Jala was living with the real life protagonist Bhota as a neighbor in a Delhi camp for nine years. When he started shooting him last year, he didn’t know Bhota was going to visit Kashmir and have a breakdown. Rajesh went back to Kashmir to trace him and get him medical help.

I could hear sneers in the hall during the screening. Rajesh probably heard that. Even though I didn’t ask, he did mention its not a film for everyone and its the only way he could have made this film.

The use of radio sounds in the film reminded me of a little video I made around 4 years ago:

In addition to these two movies, there was Firdous/Paradise (11 min) by Tushar Digambar More. What this film offers is the ‘military’ experience of Kashmir. The episode takes place inside an abandoned Pandit house where a group of troops and a local Muslim villager, under some sort of protective custody, take shelter during a “cordon and search” operation. Here they share a brief conversation on the former owners of the house. By the end of the story we realize, unknown to him, the helpful and decent villager has lost his house to the operation.

The surprise for me in this little film was a sequence in which an officer goes through an old family album he finds in the house. The bits and pieces from this blog have again helped someone fill a gap.

A screenshot from the film

Photograph of of a Kashmiri Pandit Family taken in front of their farm house at a stones throw from the famous Neolithic site of Burzahom, Kashmir in 1930s.
Shared by a reader, Man Mohan Munshi Ji, in 2010

Although the makers didn’t give credit or a line of thanks. Some of those images are from this this blog. Some from vintage books. Some shared generously by readers from their private albums.

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Oddly enough there was a Bulgarian film too that somehow reminded me of Kashmir. Tzvetanka by Youlian Tabakov (66 min). This stylish documentary tells the story of modern Bulgaria, mapping it to the events in the life of a girl born in a bourgeois family just before World War 2. By the end of the war, her idyllic life is destroyed with the coming of communist regime. The regime ends in 1989, democracy comes, she thinks the world will now be a better place. It turns out to be a mirage. She realizes world is still the same. It’s the same men from the regime now championing the cause of democracy. Revolution came and nothing changed. It is clear that this woman has seen a lot in her life and yet her love for life is unshakable and inspiring.

 

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After catching these films (and around 15 others), I headed further south to Kanyakumari. Where I was greeted by this:

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The Day Jumoo went Mad

Jumoo wasn’t his real name. Although he was from a migrant
camp in Delhi, nobody at college called him Dilli. They called him Jumoo for
the way he pronounced Jammu.
‘You can keep two. But I will keep one.’ That’s how he
introduced himself to me when we first met. He was just behind me in queue for
submission of admission forms to an engineering college. I turned around to see the face of the person who had whispered those cryptic lines into my ears. I found a sun
burnt face with a long beak and two squinty eyes. I stepped back a little to look at the complete form. He
was skinny, like a boy just out of teens, and short, like a man shortchanged by
evolution. I couldn’t understand what he meant by that “two-one” business. The
boy read my face and pointed to the girls in the alternate queue. He meant the
pandit girls. He let out a big laugh. The smell of his soul engulfed me. The
boy had horse breath. His innards were eating him inside. But he looked like a
cheerful person, a person full of cheers even though he probably didn’t have
much to cheer in life. I knew he was trying to be friends with someone from his
own kind. At that moment I knew I was going to avoid this person for rest of my
coming years in college. But something told me it wasn’t going to be easy.
Next time I saw him, he was crouched in a ‘murga’ position
on top on an almirah, his head only inches away from ceiling. These were the
first day of ‘first year’ ragging. We both were getting ragged. A boy in the
room had ordered me to fetch water for him. This boy was a super senior, which
meant he had been in college for years and wasn’t going to pass out anytime
soon. He was really from Jammu. While I was fetching water for him, he had found better entertainment. As
I entered the hostel room, the boy on the almirah greeted me by flapping his
arms like a chicken and laughing. The tone of his relation with this world was
set.
Although for a year we lived in the same hostel, our friend
circle was different. I moved in with guys from Delhi. He moved in with guys
from Bihar. So I only heard stories about him. Jumoo was  seen dancing on the road pretending to be Hritik
Roshan. Jumoo was seen at a roadside stall pretending to be Sunny Deol, trying
to lift a bicycle on his head. On Holi, a group of boys ganged up on Jumoo and
torn off all his cloths and left him without a stitch on his body. Sometimes he
would come to meet me, ask me to help him with studies, then would suddenly change topic tell me about some
girl that he thought liked him but who he thought I might like, then he would
suddenly try to sing English songs…mixing Metallica with Backstreet boys and lot of cuss words. He
would stay till some of my roommates would ask me to show the door to my mad friend.
I would tell them he isn’t my friends. He is just another mad Kashmiri. A Jumoo. Jumoo would
leave but not before making some more self deprecating jokes. The world
avoiding him like something of him would rub off on them.
A year ended. Before the start of next session all the
students went back to home towns. I didn’t go home. I went to Jammu. Jumoo went to Delhi. Then
one day in summer, he showed up at my place in Jammu. He had some relatives in
Jammu and was staying with them. While in Jammu he thought of catching up with
me.  During our conversations I had only
given him brief details about the place where I lived and yet he managed to
find my house. As cruel providence would have it, while trying to trace my
address, in the bus he asked a woman about directions to a certain locality. This
woman lived in the same locality so she asked him some more question. The woman
he met was my aunt and she led him straight to our house thinking Jumoo was my college
friend. I was angry. The rules of randomness that govern the universe, should
not have let this happen. Even my real friends, my best of friends had not been
to my house. The last time I had invited a friend home, I was in Kashmir, I was
at home, at our real house. And now this mad boy knew my corner on this planet.
My hiding place. Jumoo invited himself to lunch after an inspection of our
house. I made an excuse about some urgent work in the city and told him I could
accompany him the way back to town. We got in the bus together. I got down from
the bus at a stop, waived him goodbye and returned home. It was all an inconvenience,
something not even worth remembering.
Back at college, I passed to second year. Jumoo failed most
of the papers. He somehow blamed me. We both moved out of the hostel. I was
still with people from Delhi and he was with people from Bihar. Over the next
couple of months I heard less and less about Jumoo and his performances.
Meanwhile, I was having my own set of problems with the world. I was reading books.
And what I read of the world and what I saw of the world, didn’t match. I read
some more. Marquez, Nabokov, Coetzee, Dostoevsky, Kundera, Bellow, Burgess, Conrad,
Camus, Faulkner, Eco, Heller, Huxley, Gandhi, Malamud, Koestler, Orwell…Puzo,
Sheldon, Newspapers, Comics, Magazines… whatever I could find. Still nothing
made sense. I was training to be an engineer, but the drabness of its technical
text was making me mad. I knew I was being taught bull crap. My grades were
dropping. It’s not that I didn’t understand the topics, I did. What I  didn’t understand was how any of this was relevant. They taught you Turing and Chomsky but told you nothing
about their lives. Maybe I was at the wrong place. Over the next coming year, I
was to know failure in its truest sense. I failed at everything. I knew I was
going down into a dark pit that probably had no end.
During this time, one day a roommate told me some terrible
news about Jummoo. ‘Your friend Jumoo has finally gone completely mad!’
That morning, Jumoo had been found lying unconscious on the
steps leading to the rooftop of the college by some girl students who run away screaming on witnessing the scene. The people who arrived in response to the alarm found Jumoo conscious
but in a state in which he was not able to comprehend anything he was seeing or
hearing. His eyes were blank. It seemed he had spent the whole night on those
stairs. An ambulance was called and he was sent to a hospital. At the hospital
after some basic test they discharged him as they couldn’t find anything wrong
with him. A few days later his parents came from Delhi and took his back with
him. I thought they should have come for him earlier. He wasn’t meant to be
there.
A year passed. One hot afternoon, I found Jumoo at our door ringing
the bell. He had a big smile on his face, his usual smile, a smile that seemed
like a conscious attempt at hiding uneven teeth. Expecting that he be denied entry,
he had brought along a gift: a girlie magazine and a Nagraaj comic. It seems
his breakdown had made everyone sympathetic to him. None of my roommates raised
an objection to his presence.
After the usual catching up, some casual ‘Hi and Hellos’,
some ‘Haa-Hees’ and after savoring his gifts, everyone went back to whatever
they were doing. Jumoo on his part went back
to his usual mode, sitting silently in a corner, trying to stay out of everyone’s
path, but still hanging around, like an apparition. It was just like old times.
I went back to computer, writing a program for ‘Snakes and
Ladder’. An hour later he quietly sat next to me and asked if I would like to
hear the story of the day he went mad. I kept typing on the keyboard while he told his story: 
“After migration my family moved to Delhi where Kashmiris
were living in a camp near … It wasn’t much of a camp…there was a hall where
a lot of families put up… each camping in a particular corner, the households separated
by pardhas… people fought all the time among themselves over things like right
to window, right to turn on-off light switches, right to a better spot under the ceiling fan, right
to use toilet first…one time a man abused my mother in front of me…I wanted to
kill him…I fell in love with a girl…I put a hole in a pardha to peep at her secretly,
sleeping, changing…you know…there there was no privacy…it drove me mad…I would beat-off
in toilet and my mother would be outside knocking asking if my stomach is
alright (laughs)…I am mad…no I am really mad. Why do you think I act like
this? Why I look like this? Look at my face…my parents took me to Dr. Razdan in Jummoo.
Are you related to him? He gave me some pills…I stopped taking them some years
ago… we never had much money…your house was big… a few years ago we moved to a
migrant apartment at Dwarka…My father had a private job in Kashmir, in Delhi he
took job as a lab technician in a private school. …I studied in that school…I
was never good at studies…then I came here…to the college…you didn’t help…I
moved in with those Biharis…no one else would live with me…hostel fees was too
much…But those guys turned out to be benchods…they would steal money from me…one
of them would beat me up with a belt… sometimes just for fun…you know the guy…I
hear you had a run in with him not long ago…still it was all good…then the
results came…I failed…I didn’t send the news home…still my parents said they were
coming to see me…that day I was really worried about the idea of them staying
with me with these Biharis…that day Biharis were really giving me a headache…when
they heard that my parents were coming they said they would throw me out…I thought they were
kidding me…but then they really locked me out…so that day I just walked around
the city all day…thinking what shall happen of me…I had no money in pocket…when
evening came I didn’t know what to do…where to sleep…I was sure my roommates were
not going to let me in…so I thought maybe I will sleep in the college…it was
the best place…so I started walking to college… on way to the college I saw a
truck on the road heading my way…a thought occurred to me:  This truck cannot harm me. If God exists, this
truck will stop if I were to come in front of it, or it will just pass right through
me, I am air, I don’t exist…so I walked in front of the truck…the truck stopped…the truck did stop…but the
driver started abusing me, I ran and ran (laughs aloud)…I ran towards college…it was night by the time I reached…there were no guards…nobody stopped
me…all the rooms were locked so I headed for the roof…the roof was also locked…I
was tired…so I slept on the stairs to the roof…in the morning some girls caught
me sleeping on the stairs and started screaming…I was caught…when the people
came…I didn’t know how to explain my situation, so I pretended I had gone mad. Imagine a mad man pretending to be mad. I
pretended I couldn’t see or hear them. I couldn’t understand them. You should have seen their face…they carried me
down the stairs like I was some king…I was taken to a hospital in an ambulance…at the
hospital, a lady doctor asked me question…I continued acting…responding with
umm-umm-aa to her queries…kidar darad ho raha hai…I even sang to her in Kashmiri (laughs). She concluded I had
lost my mind…I was only acting…it was a classic performance of a mad guy…like in movies…classic Sanjeev Kumar…you know…I should have won a medal for it…let’s go out to have tandoori chicken…how come you are always busy? Are you even listening?”
A year later, Jumoo waylaid me in college. At the same place
where we had first met. From his back pocket he took out an album of
photographs, it was a family album and all the photographs were of him posing with
a car, a Santro that his father had recently purchased. He was carrying the
album in his pocket and showing it to anyone and everyone walking that way.
That was the last performance of Jumoo that I unwillingly witnessed.
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