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| Fateh Kadal, the third bridge |
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| Shah Hamadan |
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| View of Anantnag town |
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| Marble Pavilion, Shalimar |
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| Martand |
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| Shankrachraya Temple |
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| Sind Valley between Sonamarg and Baltal |
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in bits and pieces
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| Fateh Kadal, the third bridge |
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| Shah Hamadan |
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| View of Anantnag town |
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| Marble Pavilion, Shalimar |
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| Martand |
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| Shankrachraya Temple |
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| Sind Valley between Sonamarg and Baltal |
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| wanderers in Gulmarg. 2008. |
To feel the cool breeze on a body
covered with drops of perspiration;
to taste the water, cold and clear,
in a mouth all parched with thirst;
after travelling far, to rest
the tired limbs beneath the shade:
blessed indeed is one who spends
the summer wandering in Kashmir
~ Bhatta Bana, Sanskrit stylist in court of King Harsha of 7th Century CE, Kannauj.
Came across it in ‘Subhashitavali: An Anthology of Comic, Erotic and Other Verse’, translated from the Sanskrit Subhashitavali of Vallabhadeva (fifteenth-century CE, Kashmir ) by A. N. D. Haksar.

‘Victory to that lord supreme,
the illustrious bureaucrat,
infalliable, who can at will
delude the whole world with deceptions’
~Narma Mala, Satire 1
‘This humbug is a scoundrel in search of prestige and recognition. Indifferent to merit, he will fawn on those without it. Hostile to his own kin, he will exude fraternal compassion for outsiders. He is also pitiless. With bowed head, he will be all sweetness when it suits him. But once his purpose is served, he will only wrinkle his brow and say nothing.’
[…]
Hambug seemed upset at having to wait for long. He fixed his gaze on his progenitor and the god’s lotus throne, and stood proud and motionless, as if impaled on a spear. The four-headed god realized that the newcomer wished to be seated. His teeth gleaming in a smile, as if at his carrier, the swan, he said kindly,’Son, sit in my lap. You are worthy of it by virtue of the dignity that your great and remarkable austerity and other merits have given you.’
On hearing these words, hambug carefully sprinkled water on the creator god’s lap to purify it, and quickly sat upon it.’Do not speak loudly,’ he said to the god,’and if you have to, please cover your mouth with your hand so that your breath does not touch me.’ Brahma smiled at this unparalleled concern for ritual purity. ‘ Hambug you certainly are!’ he said with a wave of his hand. ‘Arise. Go to the sea-gridled earth and enjoy pleasures unknown even to the denizens of heaven.’
~Kalavilasa, Satire 2
Victory to the Heramba!
The ten directiond smile, lit up
by the brilliant radiance
of the playful raising of his tusk,
slender as lotus.
And victory to the courtesan,
lightning in the clouds of vice;
to libertines, the thespians
in the artful play of crookery;
and to that river of deception,
the procuress, whose forceful current
sweeps away, like trees, the people.
Desopadesa, Advice from the Countryside, Satire 3
More about the eleventh century CE funny guy from Kashmir:
‘Kshemendra’s work was earlier known only from quotations in some anthologies and a refrence in the Rajatarangini. In modern times, its first manuscript was discovered by A.C. Burnell, at Tanjore, in 1871. This was the Brihatkathamanjari, the abridgement of the lost work [of Gunadhya’s] already mentioned. In the succeeding half-century Indologists G. Buhler, A. Stein, B. Peterson, S.C. Das and M.S. Kaul located manuscripts of his other works, at different times, mainly in Kashmir. So far, eighteen of these have been found, and their texts edited and printed. Another sixteen are known, at least by title, from reference or quotations in the discovered texts, but still remain lost.’
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It is tempting but wrong to see present in past. To read these ancient sketches, to see the scene in front of you and go, ‘Indeed nothing has changed.’ Even if it is not the intention, the work for the troubled place of its origin, and the way it is presented in this book, the translated words of this ancient Kashmiri does seem to offer the bitter sweet pill of present coated in past. The book runs a little trick on simple readers, casual book-self browsers. Trick, the cover say’s ‘Three Satires from Ancient Kashmir’ but inside you find one of the satires, Kalavilasa, the one in which Muladeva, the king of thieves describes the ways of swindlers of the world, was in fact set in Ujjayani, near present Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh. The blurb on the last page claims, ‘these little-known exposes of eleventh-century society find resonance in India even today.’ If sketch of bureaucrats, scribes, gurus, traders, and the all thieves of the world in Kshemendra’s writing be true, be still relevant, then what about his sketch of women, his blood sucking witches. who make a man ‘struct and dance like a pet peacock.’ While Kshemendra’s sketch of men may still be acceptable, identifiable, to today’s Shabhya people, but probably not his sketch of women and ‘their ways’. No cultured man will quote Kshemendra to score a point in a debate on ‘women’s liberation’. This is not ancient times. There has been progress. We live in modern age. We…
‘A Nit-picking man. One of the many hambugs infesting Kal-yug. Listen, stop scratching your bum, wondering what-this-what-that, you Kashmiri bum, trader of black-ink, dweller of ivory island. You have to run down one of your own. Look around, ask the man on street what he thinks of ‘women and their ways’. The man pours his heart and piss on walls of public urinals. Don’t be surprised if he says the same sundry things that I wrote a thousand years ago. Just read me in translation. Me in translation by a bureaucrat and marvel. ‘
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| Near Fatehpur Sikri. Summer. 2011. |
“It was spring-time in Kashmir, and the flowers were all out to greet the couple on their honeymoon. They were as happy as any newly-wedded couple has ever been, but even in that time of bliss they could not forget the lonely man in Anand Bhawan who was sweltering in the heat of the plains to prepare the country for the final struggle.
Came across it in fantastically titled book ‘Indira Gandhi: Return of the Red Rose’ (1966) by K.A. Abbas.
Summary:
Kashmir: Cool. India: Hot. But. India: Mangoes. Kashmir: No Mangoes. And so it is appropriate, you too shall be ordained to brotherhood of mangoe-hood.
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| Runs to Mountain. Gulmarg. Summer 2008. |
Har sokhta-jaaney ke ba Kashmir dar aayad
Gar murg-e-kabaab ast ba baal-o-par aayad
Every burnt soul that comes into Kashmir gets life;
If it be a roasted fowl, it gets wings and feathers at once.
~ Urfi, 16th century Persian poet of Akbar’s court. He accompanied Akbar on his Kashmir visit in 1588. Died of dysentery in Lahore in 1591. Thirty years after his death his body was dug-up to be reburied in Najaf, Iraq. [more about him].
Came across the translation in ‘Surname Book and Racial History: A Compilation and Arrangement of Genealogical and Historical Data for Use by the Students and Members of the Relief Society of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints’ by Susa Young Gates (1918)
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Previously: Garmiyon may Kashmir jannat hai
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| Bharat Bhushan in costume drama Kavi Kalidas (1959) |
Birth-Place of Kalidasa By Pandit Anand Koul. Published in Journal of Indian History VII (1928).
THERE can be no Indian who has not heard the name of the greatest dramatist and the most illustrious poet that India has ever produced, namely, Kalidasa. The great poet, Goethe, bestows unqualified praise on his works. The richness of creative fancy of this genius, his delicacy of sentiment and his keen appreciation of the beauties of Nature, combined with remarkable powers of elegant description, which are conspicuous throughout his works, rank Kalidasa as the prince among the Oriental poets. Kalidasa’s fame rests chiefly on his dramas but he is also distinguished as an epic and a lyric poet, possessing great magic power and spell to entrance. He has written three plays – Shakuntala, Vikramorvasiya and Malavikagnimitra. He has also written two epic poems, entitled Raghuvansha and Kumarasambhava. His lyrical poems are Meghaduta and Ritusamhara. He carried ornateness to a pitch far beyond any poet’s a pitch which deserves the epithet of ‘exalted excellence’. He occupies a throne apart in the ideal and immortal kingdom of supreme creative art, poetical charm and dramatic genius.
It is, by no means, improbable that there were three poets of this name; indeed, modern Indian astronomers are so convinced of the existence of a triad of authors of this name that they apply the term Kalidasa to designate the number 3. One Kalidasa was with King Bhoja of Malva at about the end of tenth century of Christian era, about whom it is said, that he had gone to Ceylon to see the king of that island named, Kumaradasa. This king was a good poet and had sent a copy of his own poem Janaki Harana as a present to King Bhoja. This poetic work had pleased Kalidasa very much and he became anxious to make a personal acquaintance with him. He went to Ceylon and there he was staying in an old woman’s house. King Kumaradasa used to pay frequent visits to Matara and when he was there he always stayed in a certain beautiful house. During one of these visits he wrote two lines of unfinished poetry on the wall of the room where he had lived. Under it he wrote that the person who could finish this piece of poetry satisfactorily would receive a high reward from the king. Kalidasa happened to see these lines when he came to this house in Matara and he wrote two lines of splendid poetry under the unfinished lines of the king. He was In hopes that his friend king Kumaradasa would be well pleased with this and would recognize his friend’s poetry. But the unfortunate poet had not the pleasure of getting either reward or praise from the king, because the authorship of this poem was claimed by a woman in the same house, who had seen that the poet Kalidasa had written these verses. She secretly murdered Kalidasa and claimed the reward, stating that the poem was her own. But nobody would believe that the woman could have written such poetry which could have only been the work of a real poet. The king, when he saw the lines of the poetry, said that nobody but his friend, Kalidasa, would be able to understand him so well and to complete in such an excellent way the poetry which he (the king) had written and he asked where Kalidasa was, so that he could hand over to him the promised reward. Nobody knew where he was and at last search was made everywhere and, to the great sorrow of everybody, his body, which had been hidden, was found. One can hardly imagine how sad King Kumaradasa was when he heard that Kalidasa had been murdered, for he had loved him so much both as poet and as friend. A very grand funeral pyre was erected and the king lit the pyre with his own hands. When he saw the body of his dear friend consumed by the flames, he lost his senses altogether through his great grief and, to the horror of all the people assembled, he threw himself on the funeral pyre and was burnt with his friend (see page 147 of Stories from the History of Ceylon by
Mrs. Marie Musseus-Higgins).
To return to Kalidasa of our subject. He was appointed as a courtier by Vikramaditya and was greatly esteemed by him for his eminent merit. He was one of the nine gems of his court What a genius he was, may be found from the following
anecdote :-
King Vikramfiditya once composed a poetic line – Bhrashtasya ka(a)nya gatih ? meaning – What other end may not a fallen person come to ? or, in other words, the vicious wheel of vice revolves. He asked Kalidasa to complete this unfinished verse. Next day Kalidasa went purposely to a butcher’s shop whereby the king had to pass. When the king came and saw Kalidasa there, he stopped and held the following dialogue with him in poetry, which Kalidasa completed with that very line which had been composed by the king himself the previous day : –
V. Bhiksho mamsa-nishevanam prakurushe?
K. Kim tena madyam vina?
V. Madyam, chapi tava a priyam bhavatah?
K. Varanganabhih saha.
V. Vesya (a)pyartha-ruchih, kutas tava dhanam?
K. Dyutena chauryena va.
V. Dyuta-chaurya pardgraho (a)pi bhavatah?
K. Bhrashtasya ka(a)nya gatih?
V. O mendicant, do you indulge in eating mutton ?
K. What is the good of it without liquor ?
V. Do you like liquor too ?
K. Together with prostitutes.
V. A prostitute requires to be given money ; wherefrom do you
get it?
K. Either by gambling or stealing.
V. Are you addicted to gambling and stealing too ?
K. What other end may not a fallen person come to ?
Pandit Lakshmi Dhar Kalla, M.A., M.O.L,., Shastri, late Government of India Research Scholar in Archaeology, is to be thanked for the research he has recently made, fixing the birth-place of Kalidasa the sun among the poet-stars of the world – in Kashmir. He has given a new interpretation to Kalidasa’s poetry in the light of the Pratibhijna philosophy of Kashmir. He gives five following proofs from the works of Kalidasa that determine the birth-place of the poet in Kashmir:-
I. (a) Disproportionately detailed and minute physical and natural description of the Himalayas,
specially of the northern parts
of Kashmir, or more definitely, the Sindhu Valley in Kashmir.
(b) Feeling shown for, and patriotic references to, Kashmir.
II. Unconscious and spontaneous references to scenes, sights and legends of Kashmir.
III. Direct allusions to local sites and usages, social customs and conventions along with such other
miscellaneous matters as
are preferably known only to the natives of Kashmir.
IV. The personal religion of Kalidasa was the ‘Kashmir Saivism’ known as the Pratyabhijna School of
Philosophy, which has
its home in Kashmir and which was not known outside Kashmir during the
days of Kalidasa, till after its popularization by
Somananda in the ninth century A.D.
V. ‘The argument of Meghaduta points to Kashmir as the home of Kalidasa.
Matrigupta, who was appointed as king of Kashmir by Vikramaditya, is considered to be Kalidasa by Dr. Bhaudaji (see footnote on
page 83 of Stein’s Translation of the Rajatarangini). Matrigupta was no doubt, a poet, but he could not be identified with Kalidasa, because the latter was sent to Kashmir as king by Vikramaditya after only six months’ attendance at his court and he left Kashmir after Vikramaditya was dead (see Stein’s Translation of the Rajatarangini, page 95) ; while Kalidasa was with Vikramaditya at Ujjain for many years.
There is a saying current among the Kashmiris – Kalidasas chhuh panani vizih wunnan (i.e., Kalidasa falls into darkness in his own case). Proverbs prove facts which are handed down from generation to generation. The above saying goes to prove that Kalidasa was a Kashmiri. Evidently it has reference to a certain indiscretion on his part in his lifetime which must have brought him into some sort of trouble.
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Among others Hindi writer Mohan Rakesh too seems to have believed that Kalidas had a Kashmiri touch. It comes across in his Ashadh Ka Ek Din (1958) based on Meghaduta (made into a film by Mani Kaul).
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Alternative title for the post: Did Kalidas ghost-wrote the ‘Jai-tries-to-not-talk-Mausi-ji-into-offering-Basanti’s-hand-to-his-best-buddy-Veeru’ scene from Sholay?
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| Avantipur |
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| Kashmiri Gaots |
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| Chenar Bagh. Note Deodar logs. |
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| Pampur |
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| The Gate. Hari Pabat. It is still there but the surroundings are a lot more congested. |
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| Dal |
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| Shalimar |
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| Pari Mahal |
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| pari Mahal |
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| Shalimar |
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| Srinagar |
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| Srinagar |
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| Avantipur |
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| Achbal |
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| Achbal |
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| Bijbehara |
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| Bijbehara |
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| Bijbehara |
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| On Route to Srinagar. |
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| Dal |
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| Bungalow at Domel on route to Srinagar |
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| Dunga |
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| Gulmarg |
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| Fort of Hari Parbat |
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| Sher Shahi Palace |
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| Kadabal |
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| Parbat |
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| Martand |
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| Nishat |
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| Nishat |
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| Nishat |
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| Nishat |
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| Nishat |
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| Harwan |
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| Pandrathan |

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| Rainawari (?) |
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| Gulmarg |
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| Takhat |
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| Verinag |
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| Verinag |
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| Srinagar |
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| way to verinag |
You may also want to check out: Hazrat Bal, previously from the same book
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| Travellers in Kashmir. By Miss G. Hadenfeld |
Distance: 13 and a half miles
2. Tret
Distance: 12 miles
3. Marri
Distance: 14 and a half miles
4. Daywal
Distance: 10 miles
5. Kohala
Distance: 11 miles
6. Chatar Kalas
Distance: 11 and a half miles
7. Rara
Distance: 12 miles
8.Tinali
Distance: 12 miles
9. Ghari
Distance: 10 miles
10. Hatti
Distance: 12 miles
11. Chakoti
Distance: 15 miles
12. Ooree
Distance: 16 miles
13. Oorumboo
Distance: 11 miles
14.Baramula
Distance: 15 miles
15. Pattan
Distance: 14 miles
16. Srinagar (arrive in city after passing through suburb of Chatterbal)
Distance: 17 miles
Route 3
The Gujerat and Punch Route (when Route 1 is under snow)
13. Hydrabad (have to cross Haji Pir Pass)
Distance: 7 miles
14. Ooree
Distance: 10 miles
15. Oorumboo
Distance: 11 miles
16.Baramula
Distance: 15 miles
17. Pattan
Distance: 14 miles
18. Srinagar (arrive in city after passing through suburb of Chatterbal)
Distance: 17 miles
Distance: 13 and a half miles
2. Tret
Distance: 12 miles
3. Marri
Distance: 14 and a half miles
4. Khaira Galli
Distance: 9 miles
11.Hattian
Distance: 17 miles
14. Shahdera
16. Baramula
Distance: 18 miles
Distance: 14 miles
16. Srinagar (arrive in city after passing through suburb of Chatterbal)
Distance: 17 miles
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Route 5
Banihal Cart Road


Map of the Kashmir Valley and Jehlum Valley. From ‘The Panjab, North-West Frontier Province, and Kashmir’ (1916) by Sir James McCrone Douie.
‘Not a lot of Pandits used to go there, certainly not the older generation. They would go to Makhdoom Sahib on Parbat but seldom to Hazrat Bal. But younger generation had started exploring.’
The image of the famous Srinagar mosque that now comes to mind is of a hard marble dome and a minaret on the banks of Dal. But it wasn’t always like that.
Here are photographs of the old Hazrat Bal in around 1917 that I came across in a wonderful book titled ‘Cashmere: three weeks in a houseboat’ (1920) by Ambrose Petrocokino.
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| Hasrat Bal. Arriving for the Fete. |
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| Hasrat Bal. The Ghat. |
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| Hasrat Bal Ghat during the Fete. Sona Lank in distance. |
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| Hasrat Bal. The Fete. |
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| Hasrat Bal. The Mosque. |
The story of the spot goes back to Mughal times when Sadiq Khan, the governor sent in by Shah Jahan, built a garden and palace at this picture perfect spot on the side of Dal. He called it Ishrat Mahal or the Pleasure House. It was 1693 and in time the place around it came to be known as Sadiqabad or Bagh-i-Sadiq. When Shah Jahan visited the place in around 1634, he converted the pleasure palace into a mosque. Around the same time, in around 1635, a holy relic was brought to India by one Sayeed Abdullah, a keeper at  Kaaba, who settled somewhere at Bijapur in the state which in now known as Karnataka.. Syed Hamid, son of Sayeed Abdullah, having fallen on hard times after Aurangzeb’s conquest of Bijapur, sold it to a Kashmiri trader named Khwaja Nur-ud-Din Eshai. One knowing about the sale of such an artifact, Aurangzeb imprisoned the Kashmiri trader at Lahore on charges of perpetrating hoax, but later had the said relic sent to the shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti at Ajmer. Aurangzeb later had a change of heart (some say it was ‘divine intervention’) and allowed for the relic to be sent to Kashmir. But by this time Nur-ud-Din Eshai was already dead in prison, so the relic was brought to Kashmir in around 1699 by his daughter Inayat Begum whose progenies came to known as Nishaandehs –  keeper of the sign. Initially, the relic was kept at Naqshband Sahib Shrine at Srinagar. But soon, keeping in mind the growing number of people thronging to take a look at the relic, a new place for keeping the relic was proposed – the shrine at Bagh-i-Sadiq.  And so moi-e-muqaddas was placed at the shrine that came to be referred as Madina-i-Sani and Dargah-i-Sharif.  The mosque was set to distinct Kashmiri  architecture – wood, slanting roof and iris on the roof. The present look of the shrine came in around as late at 1968 when Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah as head of Muslim Auqaf Trust had the old structure dismantled and started work in a new structure. This new structure was completed in around 1979.
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Aside: To get a better understanding of the politics and economics of Shrine culture in Kashmir, do check out Chitralekha Zutshi’s ‘Languages of Belonging: Islam, Regional Identity, and the Making of Kashmir.
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Update:
“All round the sides of the Dal Lake there are broken walls and terraces, the remains of early Mughal gardens. Hazrat Bal, the village close to the Nisim Bagh, stands on the site of one of these. The large mosque, where the hair of the Prophet is preserved, and specially venerated once a year at a great mela, is built round the principal garden-house. The narrow stone water- course runs beneath it, and through the village square, in the midst of which a beautifully carved stone chabutra figures conspicuously and still forms a convenient praying platform. The old entrance can be seen in the long line of stone steps leading down to the water, but the most interesting feature at Hazrat Bal is the carved stone fountains. ”
~Â C.M. Villiers Stuart’s ‘Gardens of the Great Mughals’ (1913)
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| Changing Tangas on the road to Srinagar |
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| A waterway in Srinagar |
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| Tragbal Pass |
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| Ravine in Gilgit Valley |
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| Minimerg |
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| Telegraph station buried in Snow at Minimerg |
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| A summer view of the valley leading to the Burzil Pass |
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| Coolies near the summit of the Burzil Pass |
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