Mask of the Dalai Lama descending the temple steps, Hemis,
Leh
Leh Bazaar
Kanjut Valley near Kyber
Kafirs. (From Kafiristan. The so called ‘cannibals’. In one incident given in this book, this group of ‘Kafirs’ comes across as people who were capable of taking that title and play joke upon other people based on their dietary notoriety.
Hunza Envoy
Hunza Raja’s Band
Hunza Castle and Town
Raft of inflated Skins, Kapalu
The Devil Dance, Hemis.
Hamis Monastery.
The Mystery Play, Hemis
Baltis.
From what I have heard these folks were never treated humanely in Srinagar.
From Dutch travelogue ‘De zomer in Kaschmir : De Aarde en haar Volken’ (Summer in Kashmir: ‘The Land and its Peoples) by F. Michel (1907).
Sher Garhi Palace
Rustic Voetanar (?) temple
Pandits at a Holy Spring at Valtongoe (?)
Amarnath Pilgrims
Children playing inside Chinar tree
Narayan inside Voetanar (?) temple
Amarnath Camp
Doonga
Ekkas and Tongas
A pilgrim from Patiala
Kashmirir Handicrafts
A Kashmiri Muslim Woman
[Update: Photographer is Henry Guttmann. 1900]
Koh-i-Noor Glacier
Mar Canal
Martand
A Muslim Singer-Beggar
Kashmiri Musilm Women with Hookhas and Kangri
Pandit Men Among other things, this book records what Pandit men were made to do by the community if say a Kashmiri Muslim man ‘stole’ their wife (as they say,‘zanana chori ho gaya!’ ). The loss of caste in case of woman was of course permanent, but as a penance, for three days she was to eat only in evening, then following three day she was to eat only in morning and then for next three days eat only what she was offered in alms. The husband on the other hand was not to touch food for three days. He was to not sleep and to constantly utter, ‘Ram,Ram’.
I knew it was vintage. But the description on ebay offered no date, it just said ‘Guide to Kashmir’, old, very old, or something like that. Once I bought it and went through it, finding the date proved to be fun little exercise. Clues: In which year a double room at Nedous Hotel cost Rs. 40 a day, a month in a Five room ‘A Class’ House boat cost Rs.800, Ahdoos was still there, there were only three Film theaters in the city and visitors needed permits to bring firearms into the state…in which year?
I talked around but got only approximations. In the end the fact that it was published The Tourist Traffic Branch, Ministry of Transport New Delhi proved to be vital. Searching the web led me to the listing for this booklet available in the National Library of Australia [link]. The match on the number of pages proved to be the clincher.
“Photograph of tinsel workers in Jammu & Kashmir in India, taken by an unknown photographer in the 1890s. This image shows three seated workers with the tools of their trade. The tinsel wires are made of silver, or silver coated with gold leaf, and made into a bar in the shape of a candle, which is then forced through a series of holes on a steel plate to obtain increasingly fine-gauged lengths. Traditionally the wire was then wound onto a reel, as seen in the photograph, attached at the other end to a jantar, another steel plate, which allowed for futher refining of the gauge, and wires no thicker than a hair were obtained this way. A tola (180 grains of metal) usually produced 600 to 1,200 yards of wire.”
via: British Library
The frilly things seen dangling in the above photographs are the Atahoor worn by Kashmiri pandit women in their ears (more often around the time of marriage festivities). These are not usually made of metal wires anymore, instead they are now made of synthetic (Sulma/Tilla) threads. And since there aren’t many Atah wearing Pandit women left in valley anymore, the trade of these shiny things (along with some other shiny things like ‘shiny golden’ Kangri, employed for some ceremonies during marriage rites) has now moved to Jammu.
Photographs from ‘Beyond the Pir Panjal life and missionary enterprise in Kashmir’ by Ernest F. Neve (1914, first published in 1912). Photographs are by Dr. Neve himself unless mentioned otherwise. The rest of the photographs are by popular photographer from Sialkot R.E. Shorter (check out his kashmir work here and here). Besides Shorter, we have G. W. Millais (Geoffrey W. Millais, son of Sir John Millais, his previously featured here and here), we have famous Biscoe, and we have new names like G.W. Possnet and two very Indian, B.D. Chadda and Shiv Nath (Vishwanath?).
Crossing the Indus on a Raft of inflated Sheepskins. [More on crossing rivers on dead skin, later]
Konsa Nag, a the foot of Brahma Peaks
Mount Tatticooti, highest peak in Pir Panjal range
Saussurea, last flower found on Pir Panjal heights
Street view Anantnag/Islamabad
Kashmiri Villagers
Peasant holding Kangri
Fair at Hazrat Bal
Mar Canal.
Many old travelogues call this bridge ‘Merchant’s Bridge’.
This should be ‘Bohri Kadal’, Bohris being the Punjabi merchant class of Kashmir
(I think is should be Tsont-i-kul or Apple tree Canal?)
Shah-Hamadan
Previously posted here from a year 1904 book but now identified to have been shot by R.E. Shorter (which also means that the photographs posted here are actually probably a decade or so older that the stated 1912)
Photographs from the ‘Kashmir’ section of 15th Anniversary issue of India Today published in 1990. If there is a Kashmir ‘special’ issue today in any Magazine, you will probably see similar form of story telling through pictures. Photographers who first figured out the Kashmir template include Raghu Rai, Prashant Panjair and Pramod Pushkarna.