Kashmir, past and present, 1903

From ‘India, past and present’ (1903) by C. H. Forbes-Lindsay. Photographer: uncredited.

Girls of Kashmir

The above one is in fact ‘Natch Girls, albumen print by Francis Frith from 1870s’ (previously posted under Witches of Kashmir). Also, check out the comment section on Nautch Girls of Kashmir for a recent interesting conversation on Devdasis, Hafizas and women dancing.

Panorama of Kashmir

The book offers no clue about the location captured. It is obviously a bagh. I believe it is the Nishat bagh. It seems to have been taken from its highest pavallion. The ‘lake’ in the background is a bit confusing, it looks like a crop field. I believe it is Dal in flood time.
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Photos by an American woman doctor in Kashmir, 1913


From ‘Jungle days; being the experiences of an American woman doctor in India’ (1913) by Dr. Arley Munson.

Kashmiri women.
Picket Fences. Kashmiri Picket Fences.
 Rest of the vigenettes captured in this photograph are standard ‘pose and shoot’ for its era.

Snake charmers and jugglers.
The book offers no details on this intriguing image, But is sequentially placed in the Kashmir section.

Swing bridge Kashmir
No details given in the book but the place is probably Hattian

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popular views of the Jummoo and Kashmir territories, 1877

From ‘The northern barrier of India: A popular account of the Jummoo and Kashmir territories’ (1877) by Frederic Drew.

K2,28,265 feet; as seen from Turmik

A Dogra Soldier

Akhnoor Fort, on the Chenab

City of Srinagar. From a photograph by Francis Frith

Dards.  Photograph by Francis Frith

Dogra Fort at Skardu

Gilgit Fort in 1870

Glacier Near Sonamarg

Kangri

Kashmiri Boatmen. Photograph by Francis Frith

Kashmiri Brahmans.  Cloth sellers. Photograph by Francis Frith.
More about it here

Mosque of Shah Hamadan, Srinagar.
With view of the Kali Temple (?)

Note on the image from Man Mohan Munshi Ji:
Nanga Parbat (also known as Diamir by people of Astore and Chilas etc).
 It is apparently drawn with a
camera lucida.
The ridges in the foreground are of Tragbal and Kanzarwan

View approaching Baltal

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Beautiful Kashmiris on the Wall

On walls of Kashmir corner at Chor bizarre, Noida. Photographers: unknown. Years: unknown.
Here with captions from my mother.

[Update the photographer (of most of these is) famous Ram Chand Mehta]

Gujjar Woman and Child
‘gabbi raech’
Shepherd
[Note from Man Mohan Munshi Ji: [This is a photograph ] of a Kashmiri Pahal woman Her head dress and silver ear rings are unmistakably kashmiri/ Dress of Gujar women is totally different . More ever Gujars mostly tend buffaloes and not sheep. Herds of Bakarwals or Gaddis consist of sheep as well as goats. Only herds of Kasmiri Pohals are entirely of sheep]

do’ud’goor
Kashmiri Milkman

Kashmiri Muslim Woman
Beauty

Kashmiri Pandit Woman. 1939.
with targa, pootz, lou’ing and wankh

Pandit Man drinking tea in kenz khos.1945.
[Previously on art of holding the tea cup ]

Woman making Wagu

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On scribbled walls of Shankracharya

From
 ‘Indian pages and pictures: Rajputana, Sikkim, the Punjab, and Kashmir’ (1912)
by Michael Myers Shoemaker (1853-1924)

If you have been atop the hill, if you have seen the temple, and if you have wondered about those names scribbled on its periphery wall, if you have wondered about ‘-Akbar-Ramesh-Suresh-‘ craved on its walls, read this passage by Augusta E. King from ‘The diary of a civilian’s wife in India, 1877-1882 (1884), Volume 2’ describing her visit to the temple:

“I had thought that the practice of writing one’s name on walls was confined to English and Americans, or the European nations. But here in this Hindu temple were  thousands of Hindu autographs, and it is evidently the proper thing for any pious Hindu, who can write his name, to do so on these walls.”

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Here’s another chapter On scribbled walls of Shankracharya:

“Some people commit an unpardonable offence by scratching in with knives their names or other idle scrawls in with knives their names or other idle scrawls on the walls of ancient buildings, and visitors are misled by them. Even an antiquarian like Dr.Fergusson was misled by one of such scratchings on the staircase of this temple,”A.H. 1069”, and he, therefore, concluded that the temple was commenced “by a nameless Hindu in honor of Shiva during the tolerant reign of Jahangir”! There were also scratchings of the same nature inside the temple upon the pillar to its south-west, stating that “the idol was made by Haji Hushti, a Sahukar, in the year 54 of the Samvat era”, while at the foot of the same pillar there was another scratching stating that “he who raised this temple was Khwaja Rukn, son of Mir Jan in the year___.” Islam was unknown in that remote period when this temple was built, so there could not have been a Khwaya or a Mire then. Nor would have a Muhammadan built a temple as his own nor would he have used Sambat era for its erection.”

~ Pandit Anand Koul from his book ‘Archaeological Remains In Kashmir’ (1935)

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Example of Fergusson’s finding getting quoted by a western traveler:

~Rough notes of journeys made in … 1868,’69,’70,’71, ’72 &’73 in Syria, down the Tigris, India, Kashmir, Ceylon, Japan [&c.].

Srinagar, 1950s

Photographs of Srinagar city by Douglas Waugh (for what seems to have been a series on ‘modes of transportation’ and covering almost all of India).  Came across these at University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee Libraries – AGSL Digital Photo Archive. The photographs are dated ‘not after 1964/63’ but I believe these are from late 1950s. I have added (with help from family) location to some of the photographs. Take a peek. Rewind.


You may see all the photographs from the series at the archive here.
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Kashmir, Expedition, 1909


Photographs by Vittorio Sella from ‘Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi’ by Filippo De Filippi (1912).

Boatman on Dal Lake

Dancer at Parkutta

K2

view of Srinagar from Hari Parbat

Zoji La Pass

three weeks in Cashmere, 1920

Rest of the photographs from ‘Cashmere: three weeks in a houseboat’ (1920) by Ambrose Petrocokino who fought in Greco-Turkish War of 1897, the Boer War and the First World War.[bio]

Avantipur

Kashmiri Gaots

Chenar Bagh. Note Deodar logs.

Pampur

The Gate. Hari Pabat. It is still there but the surroundings are  a lot more congested.

Dal

Shalimar

Pari Mahal

pari Mahal

Shalimar

Srinagar

Srinagar

Avantipur

Achbal

Achbal

Bijbehara

Bijbehara

Bijbehara

On Route to Srinagar.

Dal

Bungalow at Domel on route to Srinagar

Dunga

Gulmarg

Fort of Hari Parbat

Sher Shahi Palace

Kadabal

Parbat

Martand

Nishat
Nishat
Nishat
Nishat
Nishat

Harwan

Pandrathan

Rainawari (?)

Gulmarg

Takhat

Verinag

Verinag

Srinagar

way to verinag

 You may also want to check out: Hazrat Bal, previously from the same book

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Old Photographs of Hazrat Bal, 1917

I asked my mother if she had ever been to Hazrat Bal. Yes. She has been. She went many moons ago with her then office colleagues. It must have been the 80s. The way a little stream of free flowing water washed your feet as you entered the complex impressed her much. ‘Like it does at Golden Temple,’ I propose to come up with an appropriate image.

‘Not a lot of Pandits used to go there, certainly not the older generation. They would go to Makhdoom Sahib on Parbat but seldom to Hazrat Bal. But younger generation had started exploring.’

The image of the famous Srinagar mosque that now comes to mind is of a hard marble dome and a minaret on the banks of Dal. But it wasn’t always like that.

Here are photographs of the old Hazrat Bal in around 1917 that I came across in a wonderful book titled ‘Cashmere: three weeks in a houseboat’ (1920) by Ambrose Petrocokino.

Hasrat Bal. Arriving for the Fete.
Hasrat Bal. The Ghat.
Hasrat Bal Ghat during the Fete. Sona Lank in distance.
Hasrat Bal. The Fete.
Hasrat Bal. The Mosque.

The story of the spot goes back to Mughal times when Sadiq Khan, the governor sent in by Shah Jahan, built a garden and palace at this picture perfect spot on the side of Dal. He called it Ishrat Mahal or the Pleasure House. It was 1693 and in time the place around it came to be known as Sadiqabad or Bagh-i-Sadiq. When Shah Jahan visited the place in around 1634, he converted the pleasure palace into a mosque. Around the same time, in around 1635, a holy relic was brought to India by one Sayeed Abdullah, a keeper at  Kaaba, who settled somewhere at Bijapur in the state which in now known as Karnataka.. Syed Hamid, son of Sayeed Abdullah, having fallen on hard times after Aurangzeb’s conquest of Bijapur, sold it to a Kashmiri trader named Khwaja Nur-ud-Din Eshai. One knowing about the sale of such an artifact, Aurangzeb imprisoned the Kashmiri trader at Lahore on charges of perpetrating hoax, but later had the said relic sent to the shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti at Ajmer. Aurangzeb later had a change of heart (some say it was ‘divine intervention’) and allowed for the relic to be sent to Kashmir. But by this time Nur-ud-Din Eshai was already dead in prison, so the relic was brought to Kashmir in around 1699 by his daughter Inayat Begum whose progenies came to known as Nishaandehs –  keeper of the sign. Initially, the relic was kept at Naqshband Sahib Shrine at Srinagar. But soon, keeping in mind the growing number of people thronging to take a look at the relic, a new place for keeping the relic was proposed – the shrine at Bagh-i-Sadiq.  And so moi-e-muqaddas was placed at the shrine that came to be referred as Madina-i-Sani and Dargah-i-Sharif.  The mosque was set to distinct Kashmiri  architecture – wood, slanting roof and iris on the roof. The present look of the shrine came in around as late at 1968 when Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah as head of Muslim Auqaf Trust had the old structure dismantled and started work in a new structure. This new structure was completed in around 1979.

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Aside: To get a better understanding of the politics and economics of Shrine culture in Kashmir, do check out Chitralekha Zutshi’s ‘Languages of Belonging: Islam, Regional Identity, and the Making of Kashmir.

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Update:
All round the sides of the Dal Lake there are broken walls and terraces, the remains of early Mughal gardens. Hazrat Bal, the village close to the Nisim Bagh, stands on the site of one of these. The large mosque, where the hair of the Prophet is preserved, and specially venerated once a year at a great mela, is built round the principal garden-house. The narrow stone water- course runs beneath it, and through the village square, in the midst of which a beautifully carved stone chabutra figures conspicuously and still forms a convenient praying platform. The old entrance can be seen in the long line of stone steps leading down to the water, but the most interesting feature at Hazrat Bal is the carved stone fountains. 

~ C.M. Villiers Stuart’s ‘Gardens of the Great Mughals’ (1913)

travel through Kashmir…1911


‘Across the roof of the world; a record of sport and travel through Kashmir, Gilgit, Hunza, the Pamirs, Chinese Turkistan, Mongolia and Siberia’ (1911) by Percy Thomas Etherton.

Changing Tangas on the road to Srinagar

A waterway in Srinagar

Tragbal Pass

Ravine in Gilgit Valley
Minimerg

Telegraph station buried in Snow at Minimerg

A summer view of the valley leading to the Burzil Pass

Coolies near the summit of the Burzil Pass

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