Guest post by H.L. Raina. Former Deputy Superidenting Archaeological Engineering, ASI. H.L. recalls the location of the springs in Rainawari area using memories from 1980s. It was these springs that were the life pulse of the stream that made Rainawari in Srinagar fabled “Venice of East”.
Kashmir is an oval shaped Valley surrounded by snow peaked mountains ranging from 12000 ft. to 18000 ft. and at 5000 ft. from the sea level. The melting of snow from these mountains is supposed to be the source of water in the Valley which has created wonderful lakes, springs and other sources of clear and pure water. Kashmir has been famous from ancient times for five main things like: learning, lofty houses, saffron, icy waters of lakes and springs and grapes. The main river of the valley is Vitasta which divides the Valley into two halves connectivity of this City is maintained by the five bridges ,which have further been added during some time back. The great Sindh River also flows in the Valley but at a downstream merging with the main Vitasta river near a village called Sumbal forming a Sangam/Prayaga. Among Hindus Prayaga is considered to be one of the Holiest place of pilgrimages for Holy dip in it the Kashmir had the distinction of having its own Prayaga. Unlike this Sangam the Prayaga of Allahabad is supposed to be the holiest Pilgrimage Centre of Hindus where most of the Hindu Rituals are observed. The confluence of Vitasta and Sindh can be compared like Vitasta corresponding to Jamuna and Sind to Ganges. Hindus of Valley used to perform their Religious rituals etc. at Allahabad Sangam. Poor Hindus of Kashmir could hardly afford to move to Allahabad for such rituals which happened to be too cumbersome besides costlier in ancient times.
Among several lakes of Kashmir the Dal lake is supposed to be famous than all other lakes. It is connected with small and big canals which feeds its water from Dal and finally join the main river Jhelum of Kashmir. One of the biggest Canal coming from Dal traverses through narrow floating Gardens and other Orchards just to mingle with Chunt Kul and other sub-canals finally to merge with the main river Vitasta .This biggest canal coming from Dal is locally called Maar which passes via modern Rainawari, besides providing floating passage for small and big Boats for navigation into the interiors of smaller Mohallas thus connecting Dal Lake with people who might like to have Shikara ride. This ride might give them the opportunity to enjoy Shikara ride with surrounding floating Gardens bearing the growth of Water melons and other vegetables grown there on and finally reaching to Dal anchoring the Houseboats. Rajanavatika, the ancient name by which the present Rainawari was known, was considered the largest suburbs of Srinagar falling on North side traversed by numerous canals coming from Dal Lake. This Rajanavatika was inhabited mostly by Brahmins. These Brahmins were responsible for creating problems for King Suseela during his adverse streits by resorting to solemn fasts (Prayopavesa) modern Satyagraha for meeting their demands. This perhaps Satyagraha was brain-child of these Brahmins. Ranawari was predominantly inhabited by Kashmiri Brahmins belonging to “Rainas” sub caste, which is why people have general notion about its name. Infact, some people say Raina being the sub-caste of people and in Kashmiri Language Rainawari is supposed to be mix of Raina + Wari (“Wari “ in Kashmiri means Garden) thus forming the combination word “Rainawari”. The inhabitants living on the either side on this suburban Nallah (Kul) coming from Dal lake in the earlier times happened mainly to be Hindus. It is but natural to find small and big Temples with a ghat on most of these banks. These ghats would enable them to have Sandhya rituals and bathing before entering these Temples. This canal was navigable for people to reach Dal Lake besides being conduit for sub canals. Existence of many such sub Canals cannot be ruled out in Rajanavatika (Rainawari) in those days.
One of such sub-canal penetrated deep into the part of Mohalla Naidyar at the entry point of this Mar into Rainawari. This sub-canal facilitated the inhabitants of this area to have a link of communication with other parts of the area by Shikaras, small boats and mini houseboats or doongas, besides providing parking for the boats. As there were no means of communication in those ancient times therefore they relied on navigation through these small boats.
This sub-canal enters at the right hand side where the big famous Orchard known as Nar-Batun –Bagh after coming from Dal lake ultimately culminating after reaching its dead end . There happened a big Chinar Tree a few yards beyond the end of this sub-canal towering over a small Spring [1] having fresh and clean water forcing its way to mingle with this part of Canal.
Moving back towards its entry point a Wonderful stepped Ghat touching the Octori Post Hut that has a common wall with old Ancient Mughal Bridge of Naidyar. This is the starting point to take one to the walking path through Dal Lake so as to reach the famous Nishat Bagh. This Canal water near Octori Post flows down the Naidyar Bridge which touches the right hand side of its bank having a beautiful Temple enshrining Wonderful Shiva-Ling. A Temple is supposed to have a Bathing Ghat near the vicinity of the temple so that the devotees before entering the temple have to take a bath so that they could offer the prayer in it. Yes this Temple too happened to have had well laid Stepped well-dressed Ashlar Masonry Ghat adjoining this Temple for those who might like to have a bath before entering it. At the end of the steps of the Ghat on opposite side of Temple main entrance towards Western side one would encounter an old gabletted four story building standing majestically. At the bottom fringes of this building from this running Nallah there is a beautiful Spring [2]. This spring is paved with fine dressed ashlar Stone Masonry all around including bottom flooring. This spring has a inherent character to bear sparkling clear and cold water during Summer months and warm water during winter months. People make use of this water as per needs of the Residents of the Locality.
On the opposite side of this Maar (Canal) Spring has a large orchard consisting of special type of Pears and other varieties of fruit trees. In the center of this orchard is a spacious Kashmiri Architectural Building which is Housing the D. A. V .School which was perhaps donated to this School by its owner called Daya Kishen perhaps this might be the reason why this orchard was called Daya Kishen’s Bagh. This Maar moves downwards slowly and steadily and touches the steps of the Ghat on its right hand side called Karapora. At the mid of this stepped ghat a beautiful Spring (3) is situated under the big Chinar tree. The fresh and pure water pouring out from it finally falling into the Nallah Maar below. This spring too bears warm water during winter months and cold water during summer months. This spring has been provided with fine dressed stone pavement all along at the end of this Ghat there is a Temple at the edge of its compound wall touching the waters of Maar. The temple here houses number of deities unlike the Temple of Naidyar, a Shivling too is in the center of this Temple symbolically.
There appears no change in the speed of flow of water as it moves further ahead till it kisses a Spring (4) on the left side of this Maar opposite the Karapora Temple, the water from this spring mingles with the flowing Water of Maar. The people in and around this Spring live in the Mohallah is known as Keni Mohallah. The seasonal cold and warm water of this Spring serves them as and when there is need for that.
The Nallah Maar heads forward downward to reach Ghat Jogi-Lanker, before reaching to this place it sub-divides into small sub-miniature canal and this sub-canal which is the off- shoot serves those Mohallah falling on or above the banks of these sub-canals etc. Ghat-Jogilanker too has stepped Ghat on the both banks of the Maar. The pedestrians make use of wooden bridge across this sub-canal. Ghat Jogilanker falls on the right hand bank of this Canal which serves as a parking place for the Shikaras which take people to different places of City, as the sub-maar moves further onwards it touches the compound wall of Saraf Park on the right hand side. This sub-canal further sub divides one of which moves towards Mohallah Kralyar, before reaching there it has to pass through a small wooden Bridge leading to Kralyar Ghat. This sub-canal has a motorable small road running parallel to it, which is an extension of the bigger road coming from Surtang to Kralyar. At the first division of the canal one could see the conical top of a Temple known as Bood-Mandir of Rainawari its entry from the left hand side of the road. A wonderful fresh water of a Spring (5) on the opposite side of this Temple coming from the rim of the wall of Kachroo’s House. Its water too has the character of having cold and warm water during summer and winter respectively. On the other side of the Canal, after crossing the motorable road a magnificent women School along with the famous College has come up which was founded by some prominent Kashmiri Pandiths of Rainawari, one among them happened to be my father (Late Maheshwar Nath Raina) who had the privilege to be one of the founder member of this Women Welfare Committee of Rainawari. It was built Brick by brick after reclaiming the backyard Marshy Land. This little Temple of Education developed into a full-fledged Educational Institute for Women by the name of Vishwa Bharati Institution of Education. I do hope it still continues to impart the Education to Women not only of Rainawari but to all who might need it.
The sub canal before reaching to Kralyar Ghat is supplemented by the spring water coming from what was known as Bagdagi near Kachha road. There happened a Spring (6) above the bank of the Kachha Kralyar Ghat in between the House of Tickoo’s and Jalalali’s House. Its water being fresh and clear, helped the people of this locality by providing warm water during winter months and cold water in Summer months. This spring used to be submerged whenever the level of the canal used to rise.
The sub- canal extends from the Kachha Ghat of Kralyar and forces its way towards left where a wooden bridge connects Kralyar and Jogilanker. This water forces its way to reach to Vital Bhairav of Motiyar where it mingles with main Nallah. Vaital Bhairav has a wonderful stepped Ashlar Stone Ghat bearing a well laid Spring (7) which is most of the time submerged with the main Nallah water thus making difficult for the people to judge the quantum of water coming out from it, even the variation of temperature of water during winter and summer cannot be determined. The canal thus formed does not stop here but continues to push off downwards. The main Maar Canal water after covering Bod Mandir area and other places on its way trifurcates after moving further, one part moves deep into the City the other part makes a bend towards left till it reaches Gagribal and finally once again joins Dal water. The other moves towards Centre till it joins Chunt Kul and finally falls into the Vatasta.
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Additional note not in original write-up
According to Tarikh-i- Sayid Ali (1569): 14th century queen Kota Rani had a brother named Ravan Raina. Ravan Raina had a son named Abdal Raina. Abdal Raina laid out Rajanakavatika, Garden of Rainas (skt. Rajanaka), area now known as Rainawari.
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