Seven Springs of Rainawari

Guest post by H.L. Raina. Former Deputy Superidenting Archaeological Engineering, ASI. H.L. recalls the location of the springs in Rainawari area using memories from 1980s. It was these springs that were the life pulse of the stream that made Rainawari in Srinagar fabled “Venice of East”.

Naidyar Bridge and temple. 1974. Photo by By Bill Strong.

Kashmir is an oval shaped Valley surrounded by snow peaked mountains ranging from 12000 ft. to 18000 ft. and at 5000 ft. from the sea level. The melting of snow from these mountains is supposed to be the source of water in the Valley which has created wonderful lakes, springs and other sources of clear and pure water. Kashmir has been famous from ancient times for five main things like: learning, lofty houses, saffron, icy waters of lakes and springs and grapes. The main river of the valley is Vitasta which divides the Valley into two halves connectivity of this City is maintained by the five bridges ,which have further been added during some time back. The great Sindh River also flows in the Valley but at a downstream merging with the main Vitasta river near a village called Sumbal forming a Sangam/Prayaga. Among Hindus Prayaga is considered to be one of the Holiest place of pilgrimages for Holy dip in it the Kashmir had the distinction of having its own Prayaga. Unlike this Sangam the Prayaga of Allahabad is supposed to be the holiest Pilgrimage Centre of Hindus where most of the Hindu Rituals are observed. The confluence of Vitasta and Sindh can be compared like Vitasta corresponding to Jamuna and Sind to Ganges. Hindus of Valley used to perform their Religious rituals etc. at Allahabad Sangam. Poor Hindus of Kashmir could hardly afford to move to Allahabad for such rituals which happened to be too cumbersome besides costlier in ancient times.

Rainawari Maar. 1920s. Mahatta Postcard. From personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

Among several lakes of Kashmir the Dal lake is supposed to be famous than all other lakes. It is connected with small and big canals which feeds its water from Dal and finally join the main river Jhelum of Kashmir. One of the biggest Canal coming from Dal traverses through narrow floating Gardens and other Orchards just to mingle with Chunt Kul and other sub-canals finally to merge with the main river Vitasta .This biggest canal coming from Dal is locally called Maar which passes via modern Rainawari, besides providing floating passage for small and big Boats for navigation into the interiors of smaller Mohallas thus connecting Dal Lake with people who might like to have Shikara ride. This ride might give them the opportunity to enjoy Shikara ride with surrounding floating Gardens bearing the growth of Water melons and other vegetables grown there on and finally reaching to Dal anchoring the Houseboats. Rajanavatika, the ancient name by which the present Rainawari was known, was considered the largest suburbs of Srinagar falling on North side traversed by numerous canals coming from Dal Lake. This Rajanavatika was inhabited mostly by Brahmins. These Brahmins were responsible for creating problems for King Suseela during his adverse streits by resorting to solemn fasts (Prayopavesa) modern Satyagraha for meeting their demands. This perhaps Satyagraha was brain-child of these Brahmins. Ranawari was predominantly inhabited by Kashmiri Brahmins belonging to “Rainas” sub caste, which is why people have general notion about its name. Infact, some people say Raina being the sub-caste of people and in Kashmiri Language Rainawari is supposed to be mix of Raina + Wari (“Wari “ in Kashmiri means Garden) thus forming the combination word “Rainawari”. The inhabitants living on the either side on this suburban Nallah (Kul) coming from Dal lake in the earlier times happened mainly to be Hindus. It is but natural to find small and big Temples with a ghat on most of these banks. These ghats would enable them to have Sandhya rituals and bathing before entering these Temples. This canal was navigable for people to reach Dal Lake besides being conduit for sub canals. Existence of many such sub Canals cannot be ruled out in Rajanavatika (Rainawari) in those days.

One of such sub-canal penetrated deep into the part of Mohalla Naidyar at the entry point of this Mar into Rainawari. This sub-canal facilitated the inhabitants of this area to have a link of communication with other parts of the area by Shikaras, small boats and mini houseboats or doongas, besides providing parking for the boats. As there were no means of communication in those ancient times therefore they relied on navigation through these small boats.

This sub-canal enters at the right hand side where the big famous Orchard known as Nar-Batun –Bagh after coming from Dal lake ultimately culminating after reaching its dead end . There happened a big Chinar Tree a few yards beyond the end of this sub-canal towering over a small Spring [1] having fresh and clean water forcing its way to mingle with this part of Canal.

Moving back towards its entry point a Wonderful stepped Ghat touching the Octori Post Hut that has a common wall with old Ancient Mughal Bridge of Naidyar. This is the starting point to take one to the walking path through Dal Lake so as to reach the famous Nishat Bagh. This Canal water near Octori Post flows down the Naidyar Bridge which touches the right hand side of its bank having a beautiful Temple enshrining Wonderful Shiva-Ling. A Temple is supposed to have a Bathing Ghat near the vicinity of the temple so that the devotees before entering the temple have to take a bath so that they could offer the prayer in it. Yes this Temple too happened to have had well laid Stepped well-dressed Ashlar Masonry Ghat adjoining this Temple for those who might like to have a bath before entering it. At the end of the steps of the Ghat on opposite side of Temple main entrance towards Western side one would encounter an old gabletted four story building standing majestically. At the bottom fringes of this building from this running Nallah there is a beautiful Spring [2]. This spring is paved with fine dressed ashlar Stone Masonry all around including bottom flooring. This spring has a inherent character to bear sparkling clear and cold water during Summer months and warm water during winter months. People make use of this water as per needs of the Residents of the Locality.

Pandit woman and Muslim woman. Karapora Ghat. Naidyar Bridge in distance. Circa 1904. Magic lantern slide. Personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

On the opposite side of this Maar (Canal) Spring has a large orchard consisting of special type of Pears and other varieties of fruit trees. In the center of this orchard is a spacious Kashmiri Architectural Building which is Housing the D. A. V .School which was perhaps donated to this School by its owner called Daya Kishen perhaps this might be the reason why this orchard was called Daya Kishen’s Bagh. This Maar moves downwards slowly and steadily and touches the steps of the Ghat on its right hand side called Karapora. At the mid of this stepped ghat a beautiful Spring (3) is situated under the big Chinar tree. The fresh and pure water pouring out from it finally falling into the Nallah Maar below. This spring too bears warm water during winter months and cold water during summer months. This spring has been provided with fine dressed stone pavement all along at the end of this Ghat there is a Temple at the edge of its compound wall touching the waters of Maar. The temple here houses number of deities unlike the Temple of Naidyar, a Shivling too is in the center of this Temple symbolically.

There appears no change in the speed of flow of water as it moves further ahead till it kisses a Spring (4) on the left side of this Maar opposite the Karapora Temple, the water from this spring mingles with the flowing Water of Maar. The people in and around this Spring live in the Mohallah is known as Keni Mohallah. The seasonal cold and warm water of this Spring serves them as and when there is need for that.

Bod Mandir. Circa 1904. Magic lantern slide. Personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

The Nallah Maar heads forward downward to reach Ghat Jogi-Lanker, before reaching to this place it sub-divides into small sub-miniature canal and this sub-canal which is the off- shoot serves those Mohallah falling on or above the banks of these sub-canals etc. Ghat-Jogilanker too has stepped Ghat on the both banks of the Maar. The pedestrians make use of wooden bridge across this sub-canal. Ghat Jogilanker falls on the right hand bank of this Canal which serves as a parking place for the Shikaras which take people to different places of City, as the sub-maar moves further onwards it touches the compound wall of Saraf Park on the right hand side. This sub-canal further sub divides one of which moves towards Mohallah Kralyar, before reaching there it has to pass through a small wooden Bridge leading to Kralyar Ghat. This sub-canal has a motorable small road running parallel to it, which is an extension of the bigger road coming from Surtang to Kralyar. At the first division of the canal one could see the conical top of a Temple known as Bood-Mandir of Rainawari its entry from the left hand side of the road. A wonderful fresh water of a Spring (5) on the opposite side of this Temple coming from the rim of the wall of Kachroo’s House. Its water too has the character of having cold and warm water during summer and winter respectively. On the other side of the Canal, after crossing the motorable road a magnificent women School along with the famous College has come up which was founded by some prominent Kashmiri Pandiths of Rainawari, one among them happened to be my father (Late Maheshwar Nath Raina) who had the privilege to be one of the founder member of this Women Welfare Committee of Rainawari. It was built Brick by brick after reclaiming the backyard Marshy Land. This little Temple of Education developed into a full-fledged Educational Institute for Women by the name of Vishwa Bharati Institution of Education. I do hope it still continues to impart the Education to Women not only of Rainawari but to all who might need it.

The sub canal before reaching to Kralyar Ghat is supplemented by the spring water coming from what was known as Bagdagi near Kachha road. There happened a Spring (6) above the bank of the Kachha Kralyar Ghat in between the House of Tickoo’s and Jalalali’s House. Its water being fresh and clear, helped the people of this locality by providing warm water during winter months and cold water in Summer months. This spring used to be submerged whenever the level of the canal used to rise.

The sub- canal extends from the Kachha Ghat of Kralyar and forces its way towards left where a wooden bridge connects Kralyar and Jogilanker. This water forces its way to reach to Vital Bhairav of Motiyar where it mingles with main Nallah. Vaital Bhairav has a wonderful stepped Ashlar Stone Ghat bearing a well laid Spring (7) which is most of the time submerged with the main Nallah water thus making difficult for the people to judge the quantum of water coming out from it, even the variation of temperature of water during winter and summer cannot be determined. The canal thus formed does not stop here but continues to push off downwards. The main Maar Canal water after covering Bod Mandir area and other places on its way trifurcates after moving further, one part moves deep into the City the other part makes a bend towards left till it reaches Gagribal and finally once again joins Dal water. The other moves towards Centre till it joins Chunt Kul and finally falls into the Vatasta.

A hand drawn rough map of the spring locations. From memory by H.L. Raina.
Locations extrapolated onto Google Map based on text and hand map. Position of Spring 6 is having a wider margin of error. Most of the temples in the area are now dumping ground. Most of the springs gone but some surviving in decrepit state.
Recent image of spring 3. Shared by a local, Syed Yasir via Twitter in response to map.

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by Charles W. Bartlett, 1919. Probably Kralyaar Ghat.

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Additional note not in original write-up

According to Tarikh-i- Sayid Ali (1569): 14th century queen Kota Rani had a brother named Ravan Raina. Ravan Raina had a son named Abdal Raina. Abdal Raina laid out Rajanakavatika, Garden of Rainas (skt. Rajanaka), area now known as Rainawari.

In Google Maps only one natural spring officially marked in data for area. The spring exists before Naidyaar Bridge [ marked on right side of the image]. The spring seems to be in a better preserved state and is near a Muslim shrine. In past, there may well have been many more springs in the area.

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Snake ∞

“There is one God ; but he has many names. The whole earth stands upon the serpent Sheshnag ; she has 1000 teeth and 2000 tongues; with every tongue she pronounces every day a new name of God ; and this she has done for centuries on centuries, never repeating a name once pronounced.”

Pandit Shivram of Srinagar to Rev. Joseph Wolff. Found in ‘Narrative of a mission to Bokhara, in the years 1843-1845’.

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Image: A screen-cap from a Hindi film Sheshnaag (1990) taken from a Pakistani print available on Youtube.

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First to be created was the Word.
Word is the road to the Truth.
Listen to the word, then act.
~ Mahmud Gami (1750- 1855)

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Ishber


Ishber Spring. June, 2008.

My eyes were glued to the screen, basking in the color glow of the television set. Neelam and Govinda were doing disco in snow to the synth beats of the song Aap ke Aajanay Say. Mai say Meena say Na Saki say. Even in the hustle bustle of the function, in a wopar ghar, I had managed to find a Television set and catch Chitrahaar. And this song was ‘Super Hit’. There were other kids in the room, some of them equally glued to the screen, some dancing; it seemed that kids of all the people attending that Yagnopavit function had wound up in the room. There was a TV in the room and some expensive toys, and some old ladies, maybe misplaced there. Hit song . I wondered if the place was Kashmir. Just then my father walked into the room. ‘Do you want to go to the Naag? Hawan is almost over, for the last ceremony we are going to the spring. You would like to go, right? ’

On the way back from Nishat Bagh, I made it a point that we stop at Ishber. I knew the spring was around Nishat somewhere. The place is also called Gupt Ganga or the Hidden Ganga. Somewhere near the place is the ashram of Shavite saint-scholar ‘Lal Sahib’ Swami Laxman Joo. The hosts of Yagnopavit function that night two decades ago had lived at Nishat. We had driven to the place in a car. Driver of our mini-van said he knew the place.

 It was night by the time we had reached the spring; in the darkness I hadn’t been able to fully appreciate the spring. All I could see of the spring that night was oil lamps lit around the periphery of the spring, and then set afloat in the waters – yellow light reflecting on dark waters. I was sort of disappointed. Maybe I had expected it to be like Mattan where my Nani had taken me sometime back. A water body at night is an entirely different entity. In-different. The only thing that got my attention was that I was told there a Shivling submerged in the spring and that one could see it. Too bad it was already night.

It was evening by the time we reached the place. To my surprise the van stopped in front of a big rusty old iron gate of a Security Camp. The spring now falls inside the secured zone.
This is the place. You have to go in, Driver said.
Not everyone was excited about visiting the place, some stayed inside the van while we walked to the door of the camp. Young ones came along.

The man behind the check-post greated us with a matter of fact question, ‘What business?’
We are Kashmiri Pandits. We are here to see the spring. The Talaab.
You are here to see the temple. Any Identify proof? Id?
The spring is here.
Do you have any id proof?
I was about to take out my pan card but my uncle intervened.
He is just a kid. Here take my driving license. Okay hai?
My uncle had got a driving license in Jammu. I remember Nanu driving a green Atlas cycle in Kashmir (which didn’t make to Jammu) , I remember him learning scooter, a creamy blue colored Chetek left every winter at our house by Badi Bua’s husband. The scooter reached Jammu, even though it was for a time being in the early 90s held captive by a gent named Mustaq Latram, one of the three released in exchange for passengers of the Indian Airlines plane IC 814 in 1999. I remember Nanu learning to drive Maruti 800 of his cousin brother who wasn’t actually his cousin but the youngest son of his step-brother. That night two decades ago it had been the Yognopavit ceremony of this cousin.
Standing in front of the gate, I must have been just as old as my Uncle must have been in 1990.
The man finally gave a smile and welcomed us in. The door opened. Maybe it was a bad idea. There were trucks parked to the left of the road, the end periphery of the camp and some Khaki colored tents up-ahead. Men in white undershirts, Khaki uniforms and hard black boots. Then I saw it, towards the right, in a depression, the spring identifiably by the classic two-tank structure for the Kashmiri spring temple. The source of the water along with the deity is enclosed in the higher smaller tank, and from this smaller tank, through little doors, the water flows out into the outer larger tank.
The state of the tank was sad. Green with live algae and brown with dead water. There was already something unsettling about the fact that it now falls within the camp area. It seemed that the Spring, with its painted canopy for the smaller tank, was almost encroaching upon the camp land. It looked out of place. Or may be it was the other way around. It was disappointing. Then I remembered the story about the Shivling. I told others about it too. I had to see it. We walked to the boundary wall of the small high tank and looked in. There must have been about 5 feet of water inside the tank. With the waning light of evening, the view inside the tank wasn’t very clear. The Shiving had to be here. Then I saw it. Just below us in the top left corner of the tank we could see the Shivling. I pointed it out to the others. Everyone was surprised to see it. So it was true. But then doubt crept in. The shape we were looking at looked suspiciously unlike a Shivling. It looked more like a fountain from Shalimar, but it was stone grey or an inverted flower vase or an ancient stand for a flagpole. It sure wasn’t a Shivling. The light was fast waning, soon it was going to be too dark to see anything. My camera battery had already died which meant I had managed to take only one shot of this place. Others were getting anxious. Soon the sun will set, we have to get out of here, there are people outside in the Van waiting for us. It was all becoming one big disappointment. If only I could see that Shivling. Just them a security man walked up to us, smiling.
Baba kay Darshan karnay hai? Wo yahaan hai.
He pointed the direction, a bit off to the left and top of the center of the tank. A definite shape emerged from the dark still water. There it was right in front of us. The Shivling. Pandits of yore certainly gave a thought to the theatrics involved in worship. And they liked to build the most interesting theaters using the simplest of props. All they need was the right location. A lot of western visitors had noticed how the best of the locations in Kashmir, and the best of the springs were the site of a Pandit holy spot.
The security man asked if we were not going to visit the new temple.
There was a Mata temple in site the camp. People moved inside the camp to have the darshan, I loitered around the spring, the camp and then walked out. I turned indifferent around 10 years ago. Indifferent to Ishwar.
As I walked out of that iron gate and towards the van, I witnessed a strange scene. A big curious crowd had gathered around the van. Mostly middle aged men and young children. Faces alive. Everyone from the visiting party was sitting tight inside the van, a bit jittery and trying not to look outside the window. Night was approaching.
Where are others? We need to get out of here. Are the kids with them?
I didn’t asking any questions. Soon we were out of there.
On the way back I was told that a man from the crowd had got talking and started recounting the two decades of pains and suffering. He wanted to know if anyone knew his neighbors: Bhats and Panditas. How he missed them, his brothers? How everyone suffered. The Pandits and the Muslims too. And then in the end of his didactic polemics he declared, ‘You know some of the Muslims are in fact Khanzeer.’
I have released that the old guard of pundits does not melt at these testimonies of brotherhood. It is true. Hearts don’t melt. Doves don’t fly. Tears don’t roll down the cheeks in-sync. And even when they do, even if you retort with, ‘Some of the Hindus are Pigs too’, it don’t matter. But the use of word Khanzeer by a Kashmiri Muslim certainly got their ear, even if for a brief moment.

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