Gadadhar Temple, Jammu

In the post ‘The Romantic Kashmir, 1906‘, I identified the below given image from 1945 as that of Gadhadhar Temple Srinagar.

The Gadhadhar Temple in Srinagar actually looks like this back in 1906:

I assumed that in next couple of decades it may have changed a bit. So made a connection between an unidentifiable location and an identifiable location. It turns out I was wrong.

Man Mohan Munshi Ji pointed out the mistake. Gadhadhar Temple in Srinagar still looks pretty much the same. The discussion lead me to an interesting fact that there is in fact a Gadhadhar Temple in Jammu too. It seems Dogras built twin temples separated by geographical locations and just next to their two seats of power.

The following photographs and description were sent by Man Mohan Munshi Ji of Gadadhar temple in Jammu.



View of Gadadhar Temple Jammu from the south-western gate of Mubarak Mandi . (old Secretariat). Temple is located on the first floor and ground floor houses some shops and offices.







Front view of the Gadadhar temple on the first floor

 Statue of the deity inside the temple, note the Gadha in the hand of the deity

The filled up tank in front of the temple used by Dewan Badrinath School as play ground.
Note the western gate of the old Secretariat Jammu on the right side

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Update: I now believe the original image to be of a Jain temple in Calcutta. Check original post (Kashmir in 1945) for updates.

Cursive Script from Kishtwar

Shared by Man Mohan Munshi Ji.

A natural cave at Bathastal in Kishtwar, J&K

(above two) Cursive script on the ceiling of Bathastal  Cave

Medieval Sanskrit inscription at Dachan in Kishtwar J&K

Distant and near views of Deodar  temple at Kaikut in Doda Dist. J&K

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Dilemma of Shyam Kaul and Sula Bhat.

A story sent in by my uncle Roshan Lal Das. Growing up in Jammu, I spent most of 90s hearing stories like these. 

Duck Hunter near Sopore.
He is re-winding the turban to be photographed.
 His musket, lashed to the boat, projects forward.
 From: The Romantic EastBurma, Assam, & Kashmir by Walter Del Mar 1906
One of the earliest photograph showing common Kashmiris holding guns.

In 1990 most of the Kashmiri Pandits left Kashmir as the emboldened terrorists had started their killings on a selective basis. One Shyam Kaul who was working as a public analyst (the one who tests food stuffs), did not leave, though he had already sent his family to Jammu. Maybe he was made of sterner stuff or maybe he was a little naïve or a little daft. The public labortary is situated at the base of Shankracharya Hill in Drugjan (historically known as Durgavanjni). A narrow road connects Dalgate to this labortary.This narrow road had become a den for gun-totting terrorists. Most of the time they would loiter in these lanes and bylanes which formed arterial ways to their hideouts.The place had an advantage that one could also hide behind the bushes in Shankracharya Hills.

During this time one terrorist who was nicknamed as ‘Cobra’ quickly gained notoriety. He was dark and he could climb drain pipes and gun down his victims right in their bedrooms. By 1994, the time our episode took place he had become the most feared terrorist of Drugjan, Gojwara and Dalgate area. Those days government employees in Kashmir did not do any tangible work so Shyam Kaul too did nothing in his office. He would usually visit the office of the physician in governor’s office and while away his time in idle gossip. He had a bad habit of bragging in his own office that he had close links with governor Saxena – a man who was anathema to the terrorists and their cohoots.

One day as he was entering his office he was accosted by a ‘pheran’ clad bearded chap. A Klashinkov could easily be seen hidden beneath the pheran. Soon he was joined by another person.

“You have been summoned by our leader Cobra Sahib”, the bearded guy informed him.

 “I am a simple government  employee, why should he ask for me,” Shyam Kaul said.

“He wants to check your antecedents,” said the bearded man, holding him tight by his collar now.

Shyam Kaul jerked himself free and ran inside to his office, for going in opposite direction would surely have invited a volley of bullets. Luckily for him, his head of the department popularly known as Sula Bhat was there to attend some meeting. Shyam Kaul excitedly rushed towards his room shouting, “I am being killed, please save me.”

Soon the terrorists also entered and overpowered Shyam Kaul. By this time other staffers gathered near the door and looked on helplessly. One of the terrorists took out his revolver, pointed it at the temple bone of Shyam Kaul and was about to pull the trigger. But for Sula Bhat’s timely intervened.


“Look here my brother, if you kill him here,the paramilitary persons will come and take us all to jail, there by affecting everyone of us present her and our families. It will be better if you do this when the office time is over. I will hand him over to you near the Dalgate bus stand, for handing him over near the office will again invite trouble from security people.” 


The staffers seconded the solution and appealed.


The militants agreed and now waited outside in the street. At about 4 P.M, Shyam Kaul accompanied by Sula Bhat came down the street towards Dalgate bus stand. They had hatched a plan. A bus was about to leave. Shyam Kaul ran fast and jumped into the bus which had speeded by then. The militants could not do anything as the bus was full of people.


Shyam Kaul dropped down the bus near Badami Bagh cantonment. He went to the camp and narrated his sob story to the army people. They listened to him sympathetically. They asked him about all the details of militant hideouts in Dalgate and about the kind of ammunition these men had. They were surprised at the wealth of information he had. He stayed with them for the night and early next morning they sent him safely to Jammu. 


Sula Bhat had managed to free himself from the militant’s wrangle by calling Shyam Kaul a wily fox and many other names. As soon as Shyam Kaul left, the army alongwith the local police swooped over whole of Dalgate area. They seized a lot of ammunition and arrested nearly a dozen militants including the two who had accosted Shyam Kaul. Cobra along with his mentor Bilal Lone escaped. Bilal Lone was one of the four most sought after terrorists of the valley. He escaped to Nepal. Cobra was later killed in an ambush.


After two years in jail and lot of torture most of these arrested militants gave undertakings to the authorities that they will eschew violence and lead a peaceful life, if let off. Some of these men later joined counter insurgency group known as ‘Ikhwane-Musalmeen.’ As soon as the two militant,s from whom Shyam Kaul had escaped, were let off, they confronted Sula Bhat. Now Sula Bhat was in trouble.

Three conditions were put forth before him: Either he should produce Shyam Kaul before them. Or he should procure two Kalashnkovs for them which was in replacement for the ones which had been seized from them.Or he should pay them Rs.4 Lakhs in lieu of the cost of two Kalashinkovs. Sula Bhat was given seven days to pick his option by the two men who seemed inclined to go into the new booming terror business as independent operators. 

Now Sula Bhat was in quandary. Calling the cops was more dangerous. What could he tell them? What could he expect? But there was one person who could may offer a way out. 


Dr. Rasool Raina, who lived earlier in Sula Bhat’s neighborhood, had taken to militancy in his fifties. His son, who had been a fierce terrorist, had been killed in a shootout and after the son’s death, his family was harassed by Security Agencies. Subsequently, Rasool Raina along with his family fled to POK. Dr. Raina was now conducting militancy related operations from POK.


Somehow, Sula Bhat got in touch with him and requested for a reprieve. “Don’t worry, someone will come over to your house, he will hand you a two rupee note which will have a large hole in the center. If anyone tries to harm you, just show him the note, he will not dare touch you,” Dr. Raina assured him. Sure enough, a two rupee note with a hole in center made its way to Sula Bhat. That day onward he never came close to harm (except may one other time, more of that story, later). 


In 1999, the conditions of Kashmir were a little better, certainly different. That year I was transferred back to Srinagar holding an additional charge of Public Analyst. One fine day, those two ex-militants came to my office asking me if I had any information about Shyam Kaul. I treated them with cinnamon flavoured ‘kahwa’ and plain refused that I ever knew any man named Shyam Kaul
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Pandit, Matriculation Admit Card, Panjab University, 1908

[This rare document has been sent in by Rudresh Kaul. He writes:]

Kanth Kaul (Kantah Koul, as written on the admint card) was my great grand father.He studied at CMS, Srinagar. I believe first from our family to do so. Amongst others were his younger cousin Isher joo, who later on became a teacher of Maths at his alma mater and was a colleague and friend of Master Samasar Chand Kaul . He was known as Master Isher Kaul or Master Isher Koul Dhobi, Dhobi being our family nickname. We were residents of 150, Sheliteng- Babapora, Habbakadal, Srinagar. But, important thing is that this card had been printer at Union Printing Works, Lahore. It was issued on 5th February, 1908 and signed by the then Registrar of the University of Panjab , A.C. Woolner [a Sanskrit  scholar now buried at Gora Kabristan of Lahore.]

Zethan, north by northwest

Travellers in Kashmir (~1920) by Miss G. Hadenfeldt [more]





Sent in by my Uncle R.L Das. 
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Zethan is an obscure village lying north by northwest on the outer fringes of Handwara tehsil. In the year 1998, I was promoted and transferred to Kashmir valley as provincial deputy drugs controller.Even though the militancy had ebbed down it had not been wiped out.Kashmiri pandits still felt insecure over there.I filed a civil miscellaneous petition against my posting,which was dismissed ab intio. I had but to join my new posting. Luckily, no mishap took place during my five years tenure.

During the winter of year 2000, our office received a stream of complaints against one Sarah of Dangiwachi and one Surinder Singh of village Zethan. The complaints indicated that both of them sold drugs without any drug licenses and they indulged in quackery. During the last twenty years, the people of Kashmir have developed a favorite pastime of filing frivolous complaints against one another. I would have taken these complaints lightly, but this time, action on complaints was endorsed by Dy. Chief Minister.

I proceeded towards Zethan with my inspectorate staff taking a route via Sopore, then crossing the Baramulla –Handwara road. We reached a populous village known as Rafiabad. I had visited this village earlier in 1976 when it was still known as Dangiwacha (Kashmiri word for ‘animal’s calf’). At that time it was a sleepy village with kuchha houses with thatched roofs. This time around these had been replaced by pucca houses with corrugated tin roofs.An expansive Higher secondary school had replaced the old primary school of 1976.

Upon inquiring about Sarah, we realized she was a rather well known in the area. We were directed towards another village a couple of miles up ahead, near a rather new and large military camp . Looking for Sarah
we were led to a big shop that stood out as it looked more or less like a government dispensary. Inside, a plump lady with handsome features was examining female patients, a stethoscope in hand, plugged to her ears. A bearded man, most probably her husband was dispensing medicines. So, the complaint
was right. Sarah was not only a quack but performed  D&C (douche and cleaning) as well.

We asked for her qualification. She said that she was an unemployed auxiliary nurse and that her husband was a plain matriculate. Procedure to be followed in such case was clear and well defined. The shop had to be shut. But as we were about to sieze the medicines and stethoscope, two army-men entered the shop and asked us to accompany them as some Colonel Sahib wanted to talk to us. We went to Colonel Sahib’s
camp. After introductions he offered us cardamom flavored Kahwa. He got talking.

‘Mr.Das, I am happy you people are doing a good job, preventing misuse of medicines and malpractices but at the same time you must be aware that Kashmir is also covered under AFSP act. This means that we have to see that peace is maintained in the area. I am responsible for effective maintainance of the act in this area.’

Then he got to the point.

‘This lady, Sarah, is doing a good job of maintaining peace in the area by looking after sick people and she is doing it on a charitable basis.’

And then in a clear high tone, he ordered.

‘I hope you understand, she should not be penalized’.

And that was that. Sarah seemed to be well connected in her territory. It is usually risky to take cudgels with army people especially when they have unbridled powers. So we moved on. There was one more complaint to be looked into.

From here, it was an uphill journey to Surinder Singh’s shop. While on way, just as we started, it started snowing. The uphill journey took us to one of the most breathtaking views I have ever seen. On the way we could see boulders of different shapes and sizes scattered over a vast area, right up-to the top, on the side of a hillock. Probably caused by a cloudburst, sometime long ago. Off  and on we could see forest huts with trellis and shingled roofs. The snow around their windowpanes reminded me of the scenes from the movie, Dr. Zivago.

We must have walked twenty kilometers uphill to reach our destination. Sardarji Surinder Singh’s pharmacy wasn’t hard to locate. The complaint seemed frivolous as he had a very neat premises and his
records were update. He had a drug license also. All clear credentials.

A thought occurred to me, ‘Why a city bred person had chosen this remote village near the border for his business?’. It was beyond my comprehension.

While conducting inspection, a curious crowd had gathered around the shop. I had a good look on them. I was surprised to see that most of the onlookers were fair complexioned and wore round frilled woolen
caps. Many of them had steel grey eyes and unlike Kashmiris did not wear Pherans, for they were draped in woolen blankets.

While on our way back, I asked the drugs inspector of the area, a local guy, a Kashmiri, as to who were those onlookers.

‘ Sir, your guess is as good as mine.’ That’s all he said

R.L DAS
JUNE 2011

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I couldn’t help pointing out to my uncle that in the place high up in the mountains, in that thunderstruck place, in that pass peppered with boulders brought down by clouds and snow, everyone is an outsider.

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