The Romantic Kashmir, 1906


Photographs from ‘The Romantic East: Burma, Assam, & Kashmir’ by Walter Del Mar (1906)

 Shankracharya Hill

 Wular Lake

 Bund

Sher Garhi Palace, the Summer place of 19th-century Dogra ruler, Pratap Singh. Most of it destroyed in a fire some years ago.

Fateh Kadal

Biscuit Tin Temple [ Shri Sanatan Dharam Sabha or  Gadhadhar Temple near Sher Garhi Palace ]

I believe the above image is of the Gadhadhar Temple or the Shri Sanatan Dharam Sabha as it looked in 40s. This was also the site of old Secretariat.  [Check comments on post Kashmir in 1945 ]

Update: Thanks to questioning by Man Mohan Ji and some subsequent self-questioning, I now believe that the above image is not of Gadhadhar Temple  of Srinagar but may well be of Gadhadhar Temple of Jammu. It seems that Dogras built two temples with the same name in the two capitals of their Kingdom.  [Check comments for more on this.]

Update: The above image may in fact be of a Jain temple in Calcutta. Check original post (Kashmir in 1945) for updates.

Kashmiri Beauties

Jama Masjid or The Great Mosque

Zaina Kadal, the fourth Bridge

Shah Hamadan

Hari Pabat

On the River, 1906

On the River, 2008

Jhelum Bank

Leaving on House Boat

A village on Naru Canal

Duck Hunter near Sopore. He is re-winding the turban to be photographed. His musket, lashed to the boat, projects forward.

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Building Bridges, late 19th century way

The various bridges (Kadal) under which we passed, the boatmen shouting together in chorus as they worked their hardest to keep the boat steadily in the middle of the stream, were all pf the same type; their foundation are of deaodar piles, then logs of wood about twenty-five to thirty feet long and two or three feet in girth are led two feet apart at right angles, alternately with layers of stone. So piers are built up from about twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and twenty-five feet square. These stand ninety feet apart, and are spanned by long, undressed deodar timbers. The force of the stream is broken by abutments of stones running to a point constructed on the up-stream side. These answer admirably their purpose, stemming the wild rush of waters and standing securely for hundreds of years, even when exceptional floods, like the terrible one of July, ’93, have swept all away. Even on that occasion the first bridge the Amiran Kadal though submerged, stood, but all the others were swept away. This was one of the worst floods ever known in Kashmir, and terrible destruction to city property resulted from it, more than two thousand houses disappearing in it. Mercifully, comparatively few lives were lost, though, of course, the amount of discomfort and misery it caused was very great.

– from the book ‘Afoot Through the Kashmir Valleys’ (1901) by Marion Doughty.

Finally found out the exact details of how those magnificent bridges were built in old times and a photograph of the build under process.

Boat Bridges

“Over the Vitasta this King had the Great Bridge constructed and only since that time the design of such boat bridges become well known.”

– 354, Third Taranga. From Ranjit Pandit’s translation of Kalhan’s Rajatarangini.The king was Parvarasena.

An old photograph of Habba Kadal Zaina Kadal (check the note below) with boat design.

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Correction by Man Mohan Munshi Ji:

This bridge cannot be HabbaKadal (2nd Bridge) by any chance . The Tomb of Zain-ul-abdin’s mother/(Sikandar Butshikan’s queen) located in Mazar Salatin is clearly visible in the background and as such the bridge is Zaina Kadal the fourth bridge.

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Update: This is what a boat bridge would have looked like:

Bridge of Boats over Indus at Khushal Garh [District Kohat, now in Pakistan]

From: Asia (Volume 1, 1885) by Elisée Reclus (1830-1905)

Man, Hawks at Habba Kadal

Photograph of a Security man posted on Habba Kadal.

Count the number of street lamps and the number of security men, if the security men out number the lamp posts, you know you have set foot on a troubled street.

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On way to Gulmarg, I saw a security man standing, on duty, alone, in the middle of a vegetable field, shooting. He was taking pictures using a digital camera.

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