Bandobast Sahib’s Nightmare

Kashmir was my paradise, for the work was a constant pleasure. But in a way it unfitted me for the life outside paradise, and though I have had the happiest chances and the most delightful experiences since I left the happy valley, I always compare my life now with my life then, and nothing has rivalled Kashmir. When the Kashmiris weave their lovely carpets they always leave one thing undone, for their religion teaches them that nothing done by man must be perfect. I finished my work in the valley, but there was a tract of beautiful country not belonging to the State which I had promised to “settle,” and when the end came I left this unsettled. And now year by year I have a vivid dream that the boat is ready and that all my plans are made. I have chosen my best men for this last piece of work, have sent on my tents and supplies, and am going to make no mistake this time, and the map and the settlement of the land shall be perfect. But I always wake before my boatmen shout “Yo pir” and make the boat tremble with the strong stroke of the heart-shaped paddles, and I know that if the boat ever does start, it is “finis,” or as the Moslems write on their tombs, “Khatm“.

~ ‘The India We Served’ (1928), Walter Rooper Lawrence.

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By a singular coincidence, this chance halting-place under the chinars of Panzin, brought me also across the foot-prints of another man whose name is engraved upon the history of Kashmir. For as the evening grew the Village Headman came and sat by the brook, and conversed about his fields.

“Sir,” he said, “since Laren we have had great peace. He came walking along this very road on his way to Wangat, and I stood before him, thus, with folded hands, and said :

‘”Huzoor, here is great zulm; yon field is mine, but another from the next village, who has friends at court, has stolen it from me.’

 “And Laren said, ‘What is your name ? ‘ and I said Sobhana, the son of Futto and he put it down in his note book ; and then he said:

“‘What is the name of your field ? ‘”

“and I laughed and said, ‘ Huzoor, they call my field Bamjoo.'”

“And he put that also in his book, but said no more and took his way ; and lo ! in the fullness of days when the Settlement was accomplished, my field was given back to me, and Justice was done.”

” And who was Laren ? ” I enquired —

” Laren,” he replied, ” was the great Sahib who made the Settlement ; the friend of all Zemindars. Since his time a deep confidence has settled upon our hearts. It was he who said ‘ O Wise Ones do not part with your lands for they will one day become gold.’

~ The Charm of Kashmir’ (1920) by V.C. Scott O’connor

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“I saw the Mullah step with great dignity into the ferry boat: I saw the boatman prostrate himself, as had the crowd bowed down as he passed along. He was a man of about fifty, clad in white, and when we met by my tent I noticed that, though his face was austere and ascetic, his eyes had a twinkle in them. We sat down for some time in absolute silence, and without any order on my part everyone went to a respectful distance. Then he spoke in good clear Hindustani. He had heard from his people of my work, and though I and my officials through our ignorance had made many mistakes, and though at first he had thought we should fail, he now had some hope that we should succeed. He had been told of my collision with Colonel Natha, and that I had vowed that if he remained in the State service I would resign. He was pleased that I had kept my vow, and it was for this that he and his people trusted me. “But,” he added, “you must be careful. Careful of the hate of the city and the officials, and careful not to free my people too quickly. They are under the curse and are well called the worshippers of oppression. For if they become absolutely free and careless of their rulers, they will be lazy and improvident. And one other matter you have taken on yourself affairs that do not belong to you.”

~  ‘The India We Served’ (1928), Walter Rooper Lawrence, the Land settlement officer in Kashmir from 1889 to 1895.

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Tree Bridge: Bijbehara Bridge, 1870


Came across this image over at ebay. It was getting sold without much detail besides a date. Took sometime to identify the place. But in the end , its distinctive look, trees growing on the bridge, made it easy.

Bijbehara bridge,
1870
Photographer: Unknown. (Probably Bourne)
[Update: Photographer: Francis Frith. An album dating around 1850s to 1870s. via: Victoria and Albert Museum.]

About the Bijbihara Bridge, Pandit Anand Koul in his book ‘Geography of The Jammu and Kashmir State’ (1925)’ given the date of erection of the bridge as 1631 and name of builder as Mughal Prince Dara Shikoh. In additional remarks he states that the bridge was originally a little higher up.

Biscoe Assemblage, 1934

“Principal Biscoe and his family with senior staff of the school, 1934. Biscoe is seated in the front row, second from left.”
From P. N. Dhar’s autobiographical book, “Indira Gandhi, the “Emergency”, and Indian Democracy. (2009)
Image shared by Rudresh Kaul.
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Kashmir by Modern Painters

Kashmir by B. Prabha (1933 – 2001) 
via: bonhams
Kashmiri Woman by B. Prabha.
via: bonhams

 From ‘Kashmir Series’ by B. Prabha.
via:
Sotheby’s
Kashmir by N.S. Bendre (1910-1992)
source: saffronart.com
‘Kashmiri Woodcutter’ by Abdur Rahman Chughtai (Pakistan, 1897–1975)
via: 
bonhams

Srinagar by Biren De (1926-2011)
Source: techsoftlabs.com
Previously: Srinagar Post Card by Biren De 
‘In the snows of Kashmir’ by G.R. Santosh (1929-1997).
Source: sothebys.com

Kashmir Valley by Syed Haider Raza (India, b.1922)  FOOTNOTES Provenance- Private UK-based collection. Acquired directly from the artist in Bombay in 1951. 

via: bonhams.

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mud, stone, brick and timber house, 1989





Traditional mud, stone, brick and timber houses in Srinagar, Kashmir, 1989.
photo © Randolph Langenbach.


Via: 


T H E     J O U R N A L     O F     T H E  
A S S O C I A T I O N   F O R   
P R E S E R V A T I O N     T E C H N O L O G Y
© APTI, 1989
Bricks, Mortar, and Earthquakes,
by
Randolph Langenbach 


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Update 8th July, 2017:

Inder Kaw: […]this is very much our house and my father Pt. Hari Krishen Kaw standing at the entrance door after he returned from California in 1988. He is holding a cane and right leg slighted due to his surgery here in San Jose after an accident. In 1990 I met a Cal Berkeley Professor Randolph Langenbach (Also my facebook friend now) in Late Kulbhushan Gupta,s house in Oakland on a Christmas Party. After introduction and pleasantries, he inquired where I originally hailed from. Upon hearing Srinagar, he informed me about his spending two years there as Consultant on environment to Jammu and Kashmir Government and that his speciality was earthquake proof housing. He thought Kasmirian and El-Salvadorian housing were the best earthquake proof housings in the world. He explained something to do with Daji-Deewari, Viram (The long staff) and ductility etc. Upon parting he asked for my address so he would send me his research paper on the subject, he published.Three days later, a tight vanilla envelope arrived by mail and upon pulling the journal slowly from the envelope, the first thing what appeared on the glossy cover of the journal was “American preservation technology journal”, further thrust pulling the magazine out revealed the whole glossy cover page with journal name and this particular picture on the front page. […]


And BTW the house in question has been demolished by people who bought from us and a brand new structure erected taller than 4 stories house we lived in, informs my nephew Avinash Kachroo.


Avinash Kachroo The particular building of the group which formed the original household and works of Pt. Sahajram Kaw’s sons pictured here ceased to stand when I visited the very spot from where the picture was taken, in 2015 – effecting whatever little closure I needed on Kashmir (having born and raised out of Kashmir). The front building long dispossessed still stood, though extremely dilapidated.


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