Desolation of a Garden

There was not much snow that winter. By the time Herath got over, Katij would start arriving in cities and towns, building its mud nests under the window awnings, attic rafters, exposed wooden beams of crumbling old houses, in barns and rooftop sheds, underneath the ancient sounding bridges that creaked as you walked over them, and below the bow of houseboats that lined the Jhelum. A Barn Swallow is a species of bird that prefers living with man, building its house next to his, inside his dwelling. This bird trusts Man, when Man builds a city, the bird moves in with him. It has done so for many millennia. Katij’s yearly migration to Kashmir is probably as old as the arrival of man in this fabled earthly garden. Katij’s arrival in valley was the only migration that took place in 1990. What happened with Pandits was something else. This was the year I turned eight. What I witnessed that year, I didn’t fully understand. The misery that filled people that year told me I was seeing something that I should remember. That I should never forget.


My memories of the house are sticky like the smell of deodar and sweet like the smell of water on mud husk wall, alive like hooves of a beast breaking the floor, frightening like the neighing sound of horses in dead, dark nights. Families had a common kitchen till 70s. As the families grew, kitchens were separated, three newer basic structures comprising kitchen, hall and few bedrooms were setup. The kitchens still didn’t have running water, and although by 80s the gas stove had arrived, the traditional “Daan” wood fired oven still had a corner in the old house’s Thokur Kuth, the kitchen-cum-God room where Herath or Shivratri would be ritually celebrated every year.

In 1990, we left Kashmir a day after the day of Herath, we left on the day of Salaam. We boarded the bus early morning on the 23rd of February.

“When did we leave?” I still ask my grandmother. “Allah Ho Akbar Yelli gov” she replies. To her the date of leaving and the reason for leaving is the same: When the calls of Allah’s greatness were raised.

For those early years in Jammu, we never discussed these things. Even if it came up in conversations, the matter was discussed like an accident victim would describe his injury minutes after getting hit by a car: that is hurt, that they were hit. Only after hours, only while healing, does the victim go into the details of his injury and the nature of the incident, how it happened. In 1990, neighbourhood was rife with rumors of an old lady from our house offering water to the soldiers. For years my grandmother denied the charge, as if the charge mattered. It was only 25 years later that she accepts that she used to ask the soldiers if they needed anything. “It was out of humanity,” she says with a sense of guilt. As if she was the reason why the family was forced to leave. My grandmother does not know history. She studied till class 5 and then in post-Kabali raid Kashmir, was married off at the age of twelve. Many other girls in the valley were hastily married in the initial years of Independence. It was the after-effect of horror tales born in the 47-48 Kashmir war. My grandmother recalls this much about the conflict and its relation to her life story. She remembers the night of Allah-hu-Akbar of 1990.

I read history. In July 1931 riots, an incident took place in Karfali Mohalla, the place where my grandmother was born. The incident is recorded in the official riot report compiled by the Royal court. A Muslim witness, a Mirza, claims at around half past ten in night he heard the Pandits raise the cry of Nara-i-Takbir. He claimed the Hindus proceeded to make the claim that Muslims were looting them and burning the houses. He claims the Military (under foreign mediator, British Regent) came and found the claim to be false, they left scolding the Pandits.

Isn’t that still the claim? That the mosques issued no threats, Pandits made it up, that they unduly panicked, that they engineered their own exodus.

In 1931, in the mayhem unleashed on Pandits of Vicharnag, gongs were rung to gather the mobs, it was an open invitation to looting and plunder. Mosques were used to make the call for Jihad. All of it is in the riot report quoting eyewitnesses. I had no distinct memory of the night of 19th January 1990. All the nights of that winter were the same. House a shadow, “Blackout”, sometimes lit by candle and sometimes by the blue haze of a B&W television. We all huddled together, all sleeping in the same room, ears on alert, distant cracking of gunshots.

It took me 25 years to reconstruct the memory. It took my parents 25 years to open up and share their experience. They did it over the years, in bits and pieces.

Conflict arrived home one late afternoon in July 1988. “Munni ji bachey baal baal!” (Munni ji [mother] survived by a whisker), grandmother recalls. That day Mother came home with her chappals in hand. She was near the site of the blast at Telegraph office. Hearing the blast, she had taken off her chappals, expecting violent crowds on the main road, walked through bylanes to reach home taking routes and shortcuts my grandfather had taught her. We made Taher, the yellow rice to appease the Goddess who protects one from unforeseen evils. A lot of taher was made those days. Mother was a teacher in a village schools and she would commute daily in local bus. Once due to hartal, she was stuck in a Shia village. She took shelter in the house of a farmer where she sat a few hours looking at all the farming tools wondering if a woman could be killed using them. The whole year were “incidents”, mobs and shutdowns. By the time 1989 arrived, people had gotten used to it, this too became normal. A distant relative was killed by a spade. The official reports said the killer was insane, that it was a case of mistaken identity, that the reason for killing was something else. Soon enough, the killings started on a different scale. There were tales of masked men in gumboots carrying Russian guns returning home. Srinagar, ever the city of rumors, was drowning in rumours. When the first of the National Conference leader was assassinated, guns were handed over to NC workers for self defence. The story goes that the guns were soon “lost” and ended up with “Militants”. The national dailies that arrived in the city late in the evening, still called them Militants, the term terrorist was not yet in currency. It was 1989, the term Mujahid was only used by our neighbours.

Who were our neighbours? There was the horse cart family that lived in half the house and then behind us was the family that cleaned it’s jajeer water, spittoons and night soil into our backyard. Both these households were so close to our house, we could hear each other. At night we could hear the wheezing of the horses and in day we could hear the curses. Our houses were porous, when my sister was born, someone among the neighbours yelled, “Jaan Gos Billas Zaay Koor!” (Good that Billu had a daughter ) There were prayers too, my father recalls that on the night of Milad un Nabi, someone in the house behind us would sing all night in slow sonorous voice with a twang songs celebrating the birth of his prophet. Next to that house lived henna red haired Moghul of hollow cheeks and small kohl eyes. Abandoned by her husband, she made her living spinning cotton on a wheel. She had three sons and Posha was the daughter, her youngest. She had her mother’s eyes, just a bit squinty. In the neighbourhood she was nicknamed “Batte-Posh”, Pandit’s flower, for Posha grew up in our house. She remembers being taught crochet by my aunt, Veena. Sh remembers being forced to study, she remembers being asked to sing the “Jana Ganna Manna”. She was closest to Sahaba ji, one of my uncles, cousin of my father. Their houses were next to each other. When Mogul wanted to expand her first floor courtyard, he let her, even though it now expanded right into our land.

Towards the first week of January, Sahaba cousin uncle and Veena aunt were packed off and sent to Jammu for safety. They were the first to leave. It was Posha who brought in the news that Sahaba was on the Hitlist. Sahaba worked for the state cement factory, was active in Labor Union, most of his close friends were people who were in MUF (Muslim United Front), men went on to be the leaders for JKLF. What was the charge on him? He had briefly joined the state police force. His father-in-law was in Jail department. Being the only son of her mother and dead father, Sahaba soon left the job. The charge was he was “Special officer”. Posha by now was part of the juloos, the crowds that would come out on the streets screaming “Aazadi”. The schools were shut in around October, a month early for winter. Many such juloos I witnessed. Many a times I wanted to join them, the exhilaration was infectious. Many a times the crowds outside would scream “‘Hum kya Chahte?” Many a times, while mother taught me additions and subtractions in the highest room in the house, much to her chargin, I would run to a window and scream back, “Aazadi!”

Posha too was learning calculations. She knew people. Invisible people who now claimed to be true voice of Kashmiris. Posha claimed that there were charges against her too, serious charges like, “You eat with Pandits”. She passed the message that “Mujahids” don’t want to shoot the wrong person, but mistakes could always happen. The message was clear. Veena Didi was victim of another message, this one was not privately conveyed but broadcast publicly though newspapers. Muslim and Non-Muslim women were asked to put on their religious markers: Burqa, Bindi. The “Mujahids” were again being fair, they didn’t want to target the wrong person. This message too was clearly understood by those it was meant for. Veena Didi was working in microbiology department of the Soura hospital. She was the first woman in our family to go outside the state for studying. She would fight with her younger brother over her right to watch a movie in Broadway Cinema hall. Now, Kashmir demanded she turn up for job decked like a Hindu bride.

I watched Veena Didi spend all previous summer making Amla-Shikakai concoction, soaking her hair in it for hours. Applying rice gruel and even raw eggs. She was preparing for her Spring wedding. All the preparation had been done. Shopping, house painting, new curtains, setting up rows of mud oven in the yard under the Fig tree for cooking feasts in big tin pots. House was getting an update, a new bathroom was built, in it we would finally have a geyser, they were working on an engineering solution to get the shower also to work. A sintex tank, perhaps even a motor. New galvanized tin sheets were purchased to replace the old rusty ones in roof. All of this work was meant to be over by winter. The violence froze in the winter.

Yet, Veena’s hair grew on hartal days of winter and now touched the silver anklets of her feet. Then the message arrived along with clear signs of times to come. There were acid attacks on some working women, Hindu and Muslim.

Message meant that even if Shivratri was approaching, Veena and Sahaba Nanu had to leave for safety of Jammu. On the way, their bus rolled down a gorge, many were injured, some died. News reached home: Sahaba Nanu had chipped a front teeth, Veena had a minor head injury, doctors had snipped her hair a bit to bandage the wound. Rest they were all fine. More Taher was prepared. It was as if the Gods had taken an extra liking for taher that year. In the coming weeks, their love for valley was going to demand more than just yellow rice from them, it was going to make demands on their life.

Kashmiri Muslims also make Taher, it is just that their yellow rice has fried onion in it, thus ritually different than Pandits, but same in essence, tabruk, a blessing. In these times they too needed blessings. A few weeks later the first person to die in our neighbourhood was Posha’s elder brother who ran a knick-knack cart outside our main door. A simple man whose life’s objective each day it seemed was just to make kids laugh. That’s probably why everyone called him a “mout”, a madman, a species that once flourished in Kashmir, every neighbourhood had one. This “mout” would often give kids sugar coated multi-colored sauf packets for free. I spent a lot of time sitting outside our gate, eyeing toys, awaiting new ones. I wasn’t at the gate the day he died in cross fire, caught between guns of Mujahids and soldiers. Of her two remaining brothers, one was already a Mujahid, he too would be dead in a few months. The one remaining brother was to teach Posha how to ride a scooty two decades later.

It took me two decades to realize that Posha, the messenger of 90s was just about sixteen at the time, just a few years older than my eldest cousin. I had questions for Posha, now a lab assistant in a government school, married to a grade three government employee who in winters would sell Kashmiri goods like Kullu Shawl in cities as far off as Bangalore. Her beautiful two kids, a boy and a girl were in a Zakir Naik run private institution. I asked Posha in which standard was she at the time. She was in fifth standard on account of having joined the schooling quite late after much coercion. She was such a central powerful figure in our memories of 1990, I did think she be older. Just sixteen and yet she held sway over the fate of our family in 1990.

Years later, in our house in Jammu, Posha was telling Sahaba Nanu how Jagmohan had engineered the whole thing. She was banned from the house for a few years, but she keeps coming, old bonds remain and get tugged. She visits and tells us of other girls of the neighbourhood, her cousins who grew up in our house. She tells us of Billi, the little girl who used to climb the grape creepers. Billi died of Breast cancer a few years ago even as a Pandit doctor couldn’t save her and probably over charged. She confesses Mother’s dressing table is with her. “Look, everyone was taking stuff. I assumed you be happy at least the dressing table is with me!” Mother has hated her ever since their first meeting. At the wedding, when Posha first saw my Mother, she couldn’t help but exclaim, “Billu Bhaiya, ye ha krihin!” (Brother Billu, she is dark skinned!) Father in embarrassment gagged her mouth before she could utter more and handed his wrist watch to her as a bribe. “She herself is dark like a watul!”, mother would often say.

Mother was not with me on the night of 19th January. A grand-aunt of hers had passed away a few days ago. Mother was at Chanpora at her sister’s place. She had taken my sister along. This was probably the last time she travelled alone in Kashmir. Why she took my sister and not me? Probably because my sister was two years younger and easier to manage. I would not easily agree to leave the house. They tell me even when I was a toddler, everytime I returned from matamaal, I would straightaway head for my favorite spot near a window, sit under it and run my fingers over the familiar cracks in the walls, assuring myself that I was really home. Funeral had become all the more tragic affair because the city was again under curfew and there was no simple way to reach the dead. Those who could reach had walked all the way to Barzulla, after crossing the winter dried bed of Doodhganga river on foot, they had used inner routes that none of their progenies would know or own in exile. Mother skipped the visit.

What does my mother remember?

When the loudspeakers started baying for blood on 19th, my sister wouldn’t stop crying. The mosque was very close to their house, I still remember the day crowds had gathered in the grounds around it after a lightning had struck it. Now the loudspeakers thundered, “Death to Kafirs!” Possibly the crowds were gathering in the grounds. Those inside the house were on the edge. Chanapore was a new locality, filled by people who had moved in here after selling off their older properties as the families were growing, the neighbors were new, there were no old ties between them. “Rivers of Blood shall flow! Justice awaits!”, the tape running in the mosque promised in Hindustani. On it went, it seemed for hours that stretched like eternity. My Massi a single woman was raising two teenage kids in the house. Two women, three children and an old grandmother, all locked themselves up inside a room and awaited justice. My sister never had a sense of propriety, she started crying. They tried to pacify here, it was of no use, once she starts there is no end. Afraid that there were mobs outside on prowl, Massi stuffed Parle-G biscuits inside her mouth to shut her up.

It was the same all over the city for Kashmiri Pandit women. How? I know in Jawahar Nagar, a girl who is now married to one of my cousins, was shut by her parents inside a storeroom under a staircase to keep her safe. I know in Indira Nagar, a girl, now my aunt, was shut in an attic.

“What happened in Chattabal that night?,” I ask my father and his brothers.

19th January was a Friday. It was well past the dinner time when local mosque started blaring taped messages over the loudspeaker asking the faithful to rise against the unfaithful, to declare war on the infidels and free themselves forever, free, like gods always wanted them to be. The unfaithful us were watching the Friday night English movie on Doordarshan. Ironically, as if Kashmir exists in a cruel predetermined universe, they were watching Escape From Sobibor (1987), a telefilm on a group of Polish Jews escaping from an extermination camp. Heeding the call of faith, ignoring the curfew orders, people started to gather in the streets chanting slogans of god, war and freedom. My father and uncles went outside to check, but only after locking everyone else inside the house. All our Muslim neighbours were there. The crowd was walking towards the nearby tongachowk. Walking at the fringe ends of the crowd, my father and uncles reached the spot to witness the hujoom, a sea of men. They saw a bonfire of tyres and around it people screaming their lungs out at the invisible enemy. This went on for sometime. Then people started heading back home. After most of the people had disappeared, an armored van arrived on the scene with local state police in tow. Father and his brother knew what it meant and headed for the house, while running, they tried to warn the others. A man from the neighbourhood refused to budge, he had three daughters, he was convinced they were coming for his daughter. There were few others like him. Next day, a firefighter truck arrived spraying water to remove the blood stains from the roads.

My grandfather went for the funeral against the advice of the children. People gave speeches about war to bring lasting peace. Revenge, so that every martyr’s soul finds passage to the final home. My grandfather never spoke in detail about his experience at thefuneral. On being reminded of it, as if embarrassed, as if he had committed a crime, grandfather would touch his ears and say, “Trahi! Trahi! (Save! Save! The things I heard!).” I ask the women, my aunts and grand-aunts, people locked inside the house about that night of 19th in Chattabal. The screaming started about 10:30 at night. They remember the film was about some sort of revolution. People and candle lit march. Perhaps about some Russian revolution. For a moment they thought the slogans were coming from the TV. It took them some time to be alarmed. They thought a mob was preparing to loot and kill. While they were still gathering their wits, there was hard knocking on the main door. The walls and doors of the house were no longer respected. It was as if they didn’t exist. Only weeks ago, ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border police) had jumped over the wall at night, forced us all to line up against the wall and asked us why we were sending light signals from the house. It took us some time to explain that there was a hole in one of our high windows, what they had seen was a game of shadows and candle. Not convinced they asked my father if he knew how many bullets an AK-47 fires in a second. They wanted to know if we were hiding militants. Our only defense was that we were Hindu. A local policeman had intervened on our behalf explaining that these men were not to be questioned. We were let off. That night I remember clearly. It is the 19th January I don’t remember. Maybe I was asleep. I wasn’t allowed to stay up for late night english movie nights.

Wife of my father’s elder cousin, a woman I grew up calling Aunty Mummy narrated the ordeal. It was the neighbour knocking on the gate, Posha was also there, inviting “Baaji, Come join us!”. There was going to be a protest march. They wanted our participation. It was more a proof of loyalty being demanded. A defense was being created. It was a demand masked as a request. A denial of such request could have all kinds of repercussions if we planned to live in Kashmir. Who would want to be labelled backstabbing Indian agent in such times. Kashmiris, all of us, keep such scores for very long time, decades, centuries, passing them on in our genes. The score of this denial may be asked to settle a century later. After all Kashmiri Pandits were still answering for the events of the 1930s and 40s. So, off went the men on their adventure in the street outside wearing their winter jackets. Before leaving all the women were gathered in the store room, in the store was an almirah, and behind the almirah a window that opened in the Muslim house behind us. They were instructed to jump outside if there was any danger. “After all these neighbours saved us in 47!”, they surmised. After the men locked them from outside and left, it was in darkness that the futility of the plan dawned on women. This store room was on the first floor. Even if they survived the jump somehow, none of them would be able to run and escape. They started uttering in silent whispers “indrakshi namsa devi” while the loudspeaker continued to squeal. This was the room I was in even though I have no memory of it. I probably slept through it all.

I remember the day the decision to leave was taken a few days later. I remember I was happy when I heard we were all going to Jammu. I had been to Jammu the previous year during a school break. I thought it was going to be another vacation. Taking that decision, locked inside a room, two generations of Razdans fought each other. Children were not allowed in. I could hear the load sounds coming out of the room, it seemed like everyone was angry and unhappy. I tried to listen in, climbed a window to get a peek, the room was curtained. I was told later that the elders were not ready to move, they thought it was justanother phase in Kashmir that too shall pass, the young tried to convince them that the ground beneath their feet didn’t exist, that the world they had inhibited had already turned to ash.


We were leaving Kashmir, that was certain. The only question that remained was, when.

The city was under constant curfew for fifteen to twenty day. There was no way to even inform the relatives, we had no phone. The children still played in the yard, men played cards all day while women were busy serving them tea and snacks. On the surface everything seemed normal, we kept up with the appearances, trying hard not to alarm the neighbours. If anyone had a score to settle, we did not want them to know now was the time.

The only risk taken in the calculations done in that room was that we were going to leave after performing the Shivratri rituals. Elders were prepared to die for that. They prayed to Gods to grant them only this much time. Elders also decreed that younger ones will be the first to leave. Elders will stay on for some more time, they had seen enough seasons, if the situation got better, perhaps we would all be together again in Kashmir in a month or so. There was no curfew from 5 to 8 in the morning. That was our window. A day after Shivratri, on the morning of Salaam, on 23rd February, Gull Touth, the neighbourhood Muslim Tongawalla arrived at our gate just before the sun’s first ray bent over the Zabarwan mountain range to enter the valley. Many a times at odd hours he had ferried pregnant women and sickly children to hospital, often he had ferried crying housewives to their mothers. This day he ferried us to Lal Chowk Ghanta Ghar. I don’t know what he thought was going on. We got into the first video coach bus going out of the city. I was overjoyed as this was my first ride in a video coach. It felt like the vacation fun had already started. Curtains were drawn on the windows, the movie they played that day was Namak Halaa, or was it Naseeb, the memory is divided. My joy was short lived as TV was switched off when we reached Qazi Gund, some women had started crying loudly and a few men were pleading that they all be left alone in silence. In silence we crossed the tunnel named Jawahar, after a Kashmiri Pandit. In the bus were: my mother, my sister, my father, an uncle and I.

On reaching Jammu, father left us the next day to head back for Srinagar. I would see him again only after about two months. Srinagar was under a curfew like never enforced before. Even the bylane and inner walkways were off limits to the public. In Jammu we camped in a rooftop store-room of a relative. There was no way for us to know their well-being. This relative was a former KAS officer, they had a phone. Sometime news would arrive. Terrible news. There had been another killing. A pandit had been shot in his room, another had been shot in the toilet, a man was shot grappling his assailant, a pandit was shot in the street outside his house. A relative, a young man with kids my age had been killed. I remember those days, I prayed to Gods, “Please, let no one in my family die. I promise to worship you for the rest of my life.” I made this promise to all the gods I knew. By the time Jammu summer arrived, all of us were reunited. Storeroom was our new address that whole year. It took me decades to ask my father how he left Kashmir.

“I reached Karan Chowk at about 9 P.M. The Auto-driver refused to take me further. I had to walk thirty minutes to reach home. There were bunkers every few yards, and not a soul in sight. I told myself if a shot rings out anywhere, there will be cross-firing and that will be it. I must have walked that path a thousand times in my life, many a times after a late night movie show but never in life had I experienced that unexplainable fear. Those thirty minutes were the worst. This curfew went on for about two months. Some neighbours did come looking for Sahaba. They assured, ‘We are just making sure no wrong man is targeted.’ A pandit in the neighbourhood was picked to have his throat slit. Some Muslim neighbours pleaded for the man, gave good remarks about his character and the man survived. One day while the milkman was handing over the milk to your uncle over the side wall of the house, the spot where pomegranate tree grew, there was a burst of AK-47 directed at the house. It was the last warning. We were looking for a way to escape. But, there was not enough money in the house. By April, there was let up in curfew hours. On 13th April, I collected two months of salary, Rs. 1900 from the bank. That’s how I remember the date we left. We now had the money but we still needed a transport. There were trunks that we needed to take along, afterall there was going to be a wedding in the family. A few days later your grandfather spotted a truck in the neighbourhood, it was a truck from Punjab delivering cattle to the local slaughterhouse. We struck a deal with the Sikh driver. He agreed to load us in his truck for Rs. 900. I know all this from the expense diary I was maintaining at the time. We left on the morning of 16th April.”

“Your grandmother and I sat in the front.” Aunty Mummy remembers like it happened yesterday. “At Pantha Chowk, a group of Army men stopped the truck. Finding us inside, they found the men at the back sitting on trunks, surrounded by animal filth. An officer asked us not to leave, he promised they will protect us. Tears started rolling down our eyes. We told them they were issuing our death warrant by asking us to stay. That they did not know what it was like to live in this Kashmir. The officer relented and let us pass.”

Father remembers one more thing, “At Qazigund, around nine, we saw a man with briefcase standing by the road, signing vehicles to stop. It was a Pandit man we could tell, probably making his escape to be with his family outside. He escaped along with us. An unknown man. That is how we lived and survived.”

No one in my family died that year but perhaps a part of them got left behind. I remember the day grandfather broke the television in anger. He threw a metal jug at the screen. It happened one evening when the grownups were having some discussion in our rooftop storeroom refuge. I could hear grandfather’s raised voice and the glass breaking, followed by a long winding sound of metal ringing on the floor. The discussion ended. There was no television that day. I wondered what they must have been discussing in the room. I never found out. I guess they were not happy on the roof. It was a silent night. A horrible thought took root in my mind. What if it really was a sad situation? What if it was a permanent state? What if we never return to Kashmir? I hadn’t met any of my cousins during this entire time. Everyone had stopped visiting each other. I wondered if they too were living like this. What would happen to my treasure trove that I had buried in Kashmir before leaving? Before leaving, in a far off corner of the courtyard I had dug a hole in the ground and buried inside it my precious things for safekeeping: a small wooden black horse, a plastic wound up Jeeptoy with a missing roof, half a magnet, some tips of broken pens, some empty casings of sketch color pens, a dead silvery lighter belonging to a dead granduncle, some bright colored glass marbles and a piece of a blade of a hand saw. What would happen to them? There were more…my precious belonging: a hot-wheels car, one EverReady cell, bottle caps, a shard of green colored glass, plastic whistles collected from sauf packets, two pieces of a jigsaw puzzle…that were once part of Taj Mahal. Counting my treasures I went to sleep. Next morning, father made me carry our broken 14-inch television to a repair shop to have its tube replaced. It survived. We survived. The show continued. Veena Didi got married a few months later.


-0-

A few years ago when I met the woman I was going to marry, I asked her where she was in 1990. “Delhi,” she answers. When I ask for more details, all I get is, “we had some relatives there, after a few months in Jammu, we were in Delhi.” I keep prodding for many months. There is more to her story, like many others of my generation, she is embarrassed to say that her family from Baramulla was for the first few months living in a farmer’s farm shed at the outskirts of Jammu, near the airport. What does she remember from that year: “A brick once fell from the roof. We made Taher.”

I tell her about the place where I was born. I tell her, “It was once a beautiful Garden. A place named Bagh-i-Sundar Bala Chattabal.” I ask her to tell me about the Garden in which she was born.

-0-

Family in the home garden. [Right to left] Mother, Father, Uncle. Grandmother, Aunt. Chattabal, Kashmir. 1979.
A few years before my birth.

Aabsharan by Kartik Koul, Ujwal Raina

A SearchKashmir production. 7th in the series

video link

“AABSHARAN” by young talents Kartik Koul and Ujwal Raina; featuring Bismah Meer. Kartik and Ujwal were writing and singing original songs in Hindi. So the brief from me was simple: try something similar in Kashmiri. Few months later they came back with is beautiful mix of Kashmiri, Hindi/Urdu and an element of rap also in the two languages. Surprisingly, the Kashmiri elements didn’t seem forced, instead they played on the motifs from classic Kashmiri poetry. This was about 2 years back, due to covid the video work could not takeoff. Finally, earlier this year I managed to get a team on ground to execute the video featuring a fresh face from valley.

-0-

Audio Credits:-

Singer/Lyrics/Composer – Kartik Koul

Music – Ujwal Raina

Rap written and performed by – Ujwal Raina

Mix Master – Ssameer

Recording at – Rhythm Solutions

Recording artist – Uttam Prakash

Live Instruments – Violin – Amarjeet Singh

Guitar Strums – Ssameer

Guitar plucks/Chords design – Akash Sage

Video Credits:-

Female Lead: Bismah Meer

Direction/DOP/Edit/Grade – Akash Dogra

Concept – Ujwal Raina

Story – Akash Dogra, Ujwal Raina

Poster/Title design- JD Creationz

Makeup/Styling: Soliha

Special Thanks: Uzair Nazir, Neeraj, Harshita, Mohanlal Bhat

-0-

Caller tune available on major networks

Gaana

JioSaavn

Wynk

Spotify

Itunes store:

Apple Music

Amazon Music:

Deezer

-0-

zara dekh lo hum to hai bas tumhare
just look at me, i am only yours

woh char chinaro se aashiq purane
Like the char chinaar my love for you is older than time.

aqeedat woh mujhse khafa bhi to hogi
my belief, you may at times be angry with me

yeh shaam-e-wafa inqalabi hogi
such tumultuous evenings will surely be revolutionary

aabsharan nish be ruzith chey yaar praraan roz shab
near that waterfall, i await you every night

setha pan chon lol mey amuth, yi doorar zariyna be kota vanay
i long for you too much, my love.
this separation is unbearable, how much i can’t tell

yel ti melaan chakh mey harviz whenever, every time you meet me
be bemar balhe chanye aamaro
this sickness you cure with your love

aabsharan nish be ruzith chey yaar  praraan roz shab
near that waterfall, i await you every night

me dhoor tujse na ab kosu me khud ko
I am away from you, I do not blame myself

hoo dhoor tujse, main ab kosu khuda ko
I am away from you, I do blame God for that

yeh ishq mukamal na hua adhoori hai bahe tu laga gale ab mujko
this love is imperfect, an incomplete embrace, now hug me

chey manz chum dhedaar, tchaandaan sabzaar
in you i seek glimpse of salvation, in you I seek paradise

shamshaan chak tchai, ti tchai tchakk sansaar
you are the cremation ground, you are the living world

Ilaaz kartam, bemaar mutlak
i seek your love, cure me of ills

aabsharan nish sadaan chee chinar
near the waterfall, look for the chinar

darshana tujko yeh cahata nahi,
i can’t express this but…

mohobatt hai andhi yeh kehte sahi
love is blind, that is right, everyone says

zamana bi tujko yeh yaad dilae, jo tune kia wo ishq nahi
The world will remind you, what you did, was not love

trovum mashar chonuy, vandhay yath panas ,
forgetting these memories, may your being blossom

dramut me naadan, yi diwaan shahras
the madman roams cities calling out your name

gam chum syatha chyoni vantam vanay kya.
this much grieving for you, i can’t express 

arman dilki chim chein kyeta
the desires of heart for you, i can’t express

mein tera tha tera yeh tu janta tha
i was only yours, only you knew

mein guzra tha kal tu sawera tha mera
i was days of past, you were morning that never arrived

mein behta kinnar tu dariya tha mera
you were my river to the bank from which water flows 

tu gurbat ki shamo mai nagma tha mera you were the song i sung in my solitary nights

aabsharan nish be ruzith tchai yaar praraan roz shab
near that waterfall, i await you every night

setha pan chon lol mey amuth, yi doorar zariyna be kota vanay
i long for you too much, my love.
this separation is unbearable, how much i can’t tell

-0-

What is Kashmir Shaivism (Trika Philosophy)?

Guest post by Satyarth Pandita

Shiva are embodiment of India. Illustration from an old Kashmiri magazine. Kashmir Research Institute, Srinagar.

I want to begin this article by thanking you, dear reader, who, after reading the article’s title, chose to read it instead of skipping it like many other readers. There must be perhaps something striking about the title that was perceived intriguingly by your conscious or your unconscious, something impulsive that made you want to read the words of this text and make sense. Perhaps it was the word Kashmir that struck some chords of your brain; perhaps it was the word Shaivism that triggered the (a)theistic regions of your brain or perhaps the word philosophy, or perhaps you chose to read it just for the sake of reading. Whatsoever the reason, I hope the readers will read the article to its end and be inspired to become Shiva. But I want to clear certain things here and now; I am not an expert to write something on a subject like this because there already have been many scholars extraordinary and highly advanced mystics who have already delved deep to the bottom of this ocean. But I believe that their readership is subjected to selective literary coteries, which has reached a dwindling number in the present time. This is not the first article on this subject, nor does this include my interpretation of any of the original texts on this subject. Instead, this article aims to provide a kaleidoscopic view of all that has been written about the philosophy of Kashmir Shaivism till now. To state the words of Michael Madhusudan Dutt, “In matters literary, old boy, I am too proud to stand before the world in borrowed clothes. I may borrow a neck-tie, or even a waist coat, but not the whole suit.” I, therefore, present this article to the readers as a bouquet containing flowers of Kashmir Shaivism plucked from different philosophical gardens of India.

Since the very beginning, Kashmir has been the cradle of various philosophies, the seat of the Goddess of learning. It was in this valley of Kashmir that Abhinavagupta (the great master of Kashmir Shaivism) appeared at that point of time when Shaivism had taken deep roots in the soil of Kashmir. Around 10-11 CE, Shaivism had become so embedded in the psyche of the Kashmiri populace that it had branched itself into various philosophical schools of thought such as Spanda, Pratyabhijna, Krama and Kaula. Thus, this task of integrating the above schools of thought under one shed was taken up by Abhinavagupta in his magnum opus ‘Tantralok’ or ‘The Light on the Tantras’, and the collection of these branches of a singular tree came to be known as the Trika Shaivism. Therefore, Trika Shaivism can be considered as a part of the whole (Kashmir Shaivism). The readers may, however, note that the terms Kashmir Shaivism and Trika are sometimes used interchangeably. But how did Kashmir Shaivism actually come into being? According to legend, Lord Shiva appeared in a dream to a venerable teacher by the name of Acharya Vasugupta, who lived in Kashmir in the 9th century. Lord Shiva told Vasugupta that He had inscribed secret teachings on a huge rock and that he should find this rock and spread these teachings to those who were worthy to receive them. The teachings inscribed on the rock were uncovered by the sage and came to be known as the Shiva Sutras, a set of 77 aphorisms on yoga. They are the seed of the philosophy and discipline of Kashmir Shaivism. The corpus of work in Kashmir Shaivism is a commentary on these sutras or an expansion of them. This is the origin of the Shivasutras and the beginning of the writings of Kashmir Shaivism.

The word “Shaivism” is derived from Shiva, which is the name given to the Ultimate Reality. Thus, the philosophy of Kashmir Shaivism describes the highest truth as supreme Shiva. Shiva is Chaitanya, the everlasting and all-pervasive consciousness. All that is experienced in the world is Shiva. Kashmir Shaivism is a philosophy of experience. The purpose of this doctrine is to show the individual the path to the right knowledge by overcoming his deep-rooted ignorance and casting aside his limitations. The philosophy is called “Kashmir Shaivism” because the Shivasutras on which it is based were revealed in the valley of Kashmir, and many of the philosophers who studied and wrote about the system lived in that area. The word ‘Trika’ means ‘three-fold’ because it analyses the nature of Shiva, Shakti and Nara, or God, soul and matter. Shiva is God; Shakti is God’s I-consciousness, and Nara is man (human). Trika is the pure Kashmiri philosophy enunciated by ancient Rishis of the valley, and it teaches that Shiva, Shakti and Nara are not different from one another. It states that Man and God are one and the same. In fact, just the supreme self, known as Shiva in this philosophical system, is the self of the entire universe.

The primary literature of the Shaivite philosophy may be broadly classified into three groups: 1)Agama-believed to be revelations (writing inspired), if not inspired by God; 2)Spanda– it lays down the critical doctrines of the system, expanding the revelations and 3)Pratyabhijna– it interprets those doctrines reasonably and logically.

According to Indian tradition, there is only one Ultimate Reality, but there are six fundamental interpretations of that Reality known as Shad Darshans or the Six systems of philosophy. These constitute India’s six classic philosophical schools: Nyaya, Vaiseshika, Samkhya, Yoga, Purva-Mimamsa and Uttara-Mimamsa (or Vedanta). Apart from these philosophical schools, Kashmir Shaivism occupies a unique position in Indian philosophy and differs from the rest in certain ways. To give the reader a clear picture of how Kashmir Shaivism differs or contradicts the schools mentioned above, I shall explain by giving an example (of Vedanta and Kashmir Shaivism) on the lines of Indian cosmological theories. According to the Advaita Vedanta school, their theory of creation is that of appearance, according to which there is actually no creation at all. As creation does not exist, it only appears to exist. What we think exists is, therefore, mere facts. This appearance of the universe is linked to the dream objects that appear in a dream. The objects of a dream seem to be real as long as the dream lasts. The objects of the dream, however, disappear once the dream comes to an end. One finds a striking resemblance between this theory and the statement made by the pre-socratic Parmenides of Elea “The world as we know it is illusory”.

On the other hand, the central premise of Kashmir Shaivism is that there is only one Ultimate Reality, and it is the sovereign will of God that is the cause of the manifest universe. This theory of creation is known as the principle of sovereign will (of God). Kashmir Shaivism holds that the world is born of Him, and He is the very fibre of its existence. The world under this doctrine is not a dream. It is real because Shiva manifests Himself in the world. Thus Shiva is within the world as well as beyond the world. Shiva, by his own free will, sends forth the universe from his own being, imparts existence to it, and again withdraws it into Himself. The cosmological structure of Trika Shaivism is based upon the 25 Samkhya categories of existence (tattva/elements). It, however, adds 11 more categories and thus, in Kashmir Shaivism, the total number of manifestational categories become 36, of which the highest category is Paramshiva, and the lowest one is that of the phenomenal world. Kashmir Shaivism believes in the existence of numerous realms besides our empirical world, and these realms are thought to be inhabited by beings invisible to the naked eye. To give the reader an idea of the nature of these tattvas or elements, I shall name a few of them, to wit: Five Great Elements (earth, water, fire, air, ether), Five Subtle elements (smell, taste, form, touch, sound), Five Organs of Action (creative, excretion, foot, hand, speech) etc. Thus, Paramshiva transcends all these 36 tattvas and exists as the pure being unaffected by all time, space, and causation
while standing as the support and substratum of everything.

Kashmir Shaivism constructs a pure monism that assumes a single Reality (the Ultimate Reality) with two aspects, one transcending the universe (prakasha) and the other operating through it (vimarsha). According to this philosophical approach, every entity owes its existence to Shiva. Shiva as absolute God is pure light (prakasha) or the spiritual light of consciousness. On account of this light of consciousness, we are able to know what is to be known. Prakash is the aspect of self-realization which illuminates everything. Nevertheless, the Absolute as consciousness is not only light but also reflection (vimarsha). The reflective aspect of the Absolute discloses its dynamic nature. It is in and through reflection that the Absolute appears as phenomena. Vimarsha is the aspect that uses prakash to survey itself. The universe, as well as whatever there is in the universe, is the self-manifestation of the Absolute. This Ultimate Reality, according to the Trika system, is the core of all things and is known by the name of Paramshiva (the Supreme Shiva). He is beyond all manifestations; He is beyond the limitations of form. He is beyond change, always remaining transcendental and undiminished. The luminosity of the Absolute represents its static aspect. As the essence of light is reflection, so the Absolute shines forth as God through the five cosmic powers of manifestation, preservation, withdrawal, obscuration and revelation. It is through the reflective aspect that the Absolute expresses its five cosmic powers. At the conceptual level of thought, this aspect is known as Shakti, which in terms of religious devotion, is symbolized by the Goddess. It is shakti that imparts the necessary dynamism to the otherwise passive Shiva. The word Shakti is derived from the root “shak” meaning to be capable of; therefore, it is the power of consciousness to act or active aspect of consciousness. It is the cause of all motion and change observed throughout the manifest universe. Shakti, according to the Kashmir Shaivism, is the universal energy that brings all things into being; and as such, it is considered to be the feminine aspect of nature, the “Mother of the Universe.” In yogic parlance, Shakti is known as kundalini Shakti. It works ordinarily in all living beings. According to Arthur Avalon, “Kundalini is the state Shakti which is the individual’s bodily representative of the great cosmic power (Shakti) that creates and sustains the universe.”

Kashmir Shaivism has been called the religion of grace. It is through divine grace that the seeker of salvation is enabled to reach his esoteric goal of libration in terms of realizing his unity with the supreme consciousness, namely, Paramshiva. The final cosmic activity of God is said to be that of revelation, or the stage in which He reveals Himself as He is, as a consequence of His grace. The take of Kashmir Shaivism on God’s grace is that it should be seen as the mainspring of an individual’s search for liberation. However, the system maintains that grace should not be treated as being the result of one’s religious deeds. Grace is purely a gift from God; the descent of grace upon an individual occurs according to His free will. While pouring down His grace upon people, God does not necessarily take into consideration whether they have sinned or not. Grace is meant for the sinner primarily. Thus, the divine grace of God may be seen as the initial pointy of movement towards salvation. Though phenomenal existence is a manifestation of divine nature, it must be transcended because it is a state of limitation or imperfection. The three states of waking, dreaming and deep sleep, which comprise the whole of phenomenal life, are painful and constitute the realm of toil and suffering. During these states, freedom is reduced to a subordinate position. Therefore, the state of liberation, which is the fourth state called (turiya), is highly sought after. It is a state of spiritual revelation. There is, however, a still higher state of spiritual illumination that is known as the (turiyatita) that is, beyond the Fourth. Liberation is sought only upon the negation of bondage. Although in reality, there is no bondage, the individual is bound as long as he continues to feel limited. If he does not feel bound, he has no real problem. However, as long as he maintains a sense of ego and identity with the body, he remains in the realm of limitation and has to put forth self-effort to overcome his trials and sufferings. And this suffering acts as an essential stimulus for spiritual awakening. The final release or liberation consists of the realization of the absolute freedom or perfection. The attainment of freedom is possible only when one transcends the realm of Maya. Liberation is the recognition of one’s own true nature- the original, innate, pure I-consciousness. When an individual has this awareness, he knows his real nature and attains the bliss of the Universal Consciousness or Shiva-Consciousness. The highest form of bliss, according to Kashmir Shaivism, is Jagadananda or Lokananda, the bliss of the world, in which the whole world appears to the liberated soul as the embodiment of Shiva.

Kashmir Shaivism represents one of the most luminous attainments of the spiritual endeavour to relate human with the divine, being conceived as the happy marriage of the abstract with the realistic world of human experience. If one were to describe or explain the central idea and substance of Kashmir Monistic Shaivism, then one is often reminded of the observation made by Swami Utpalacharya, a distinguished Shaivite, who said, “I would bow in reverence before that great bhaktha, who performs no japa nor undertakes any dhyana but who finds Shiva in everything and everywhere.”


In the concluding part of the article, I would like to state a verse from Abhinavagupta’s Paramarthasara:

“It is in me that this universe reveals itself, like vases and other objects in a spotless mirror. From me, everything arises, just as the many different dreams arise from sleep. It is I whose form is this universe, just as a body has hands, feet, and sense organs. It is I who shines in everything, like a light shining in different forms.”

Thus, it would be apt to say that Kashmir Shaivism is the pinnacle of all philosophy, that there is nothing beyond it.

References:

  • Swami Lakshmanjoo, Kashmir Shaivism: The Secret Supreme
  • Nand Lal Shah, Kashmir Trika Philosophy and other Thoughts
  • Swami Tejomayananda, Introduction to Kashmir Shaivism
  • Moti Lal Pandit, Trika Shaivism: An Introduction
  • Swami Shankarananda, The Yoga of Kashmir Shaivism: consciousness is everything
  • Prof. Navjivan Rastogi, Introducing Kashmir Shaivism

-0-

Satyarth Pandita is a BS-MS undergraduate student at an Indian Institute. He is doing his major in Biological Sciences. For him, the journey of writing began with sending short stories and paintings to ‘Springer'(Monthly Children’s Magazine) and now many of his short stories, essays and articles have been published in the state newspapers like ‘Daily Excelsior’, ‘State Times’ and in magazines like ‘Kitaab’,  ‘All Ears’, ‘Ayaskala’ , and ‘TheStoryVault’.

Follow Satyarth on Twitter: @panditasatyarth

Maeshravthas Janaan by Vishal Pandita

A SearchKashmir production. 6th in the series

“Maeshravthas Janaan” by Vishal Pandita, lyrics of Rasa Javidani, a song originally immortalised by Raj Begam. Original was a love song, here it becomes exile lament. There is play on Kashmir “paradise”, what we hope to see, and what we actually see when we return, and ends with a famous verse of Lal Ded about soul’s journey home.

As always the brief from my end was that the song has to be shot in Kashmir. The team did a great job at executing the ideas, finding the locations, and even used old images from SearchKashmir site to get the feeling right.

-0-

video link

-0-

Lyrics and translation:

Kashmir

tche oosukh                                            
   [you were]

tche chukh                                                          

 [you are] 

ti tche roozakh                                      
   [and you will be]
jannat-e-benazir                            
        [paradise par excellence ]
kasheer                                          
 [kashmir]
maeshravthas janaan                            
    [my love, you have forgotten me]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
maeshravthas janaan                            
    [my love, you have forgotten me]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
chukh aze waffa begaane                
    [today you are faithless]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
dar-e-dil kare mai jaay, mat’hai maay nigaroo  

 [in valley of my heart i gave you space, love, our love you forgot]
kaaba’es me gov but-khan’e,            
[Kaaba of my heart, is now a desolate temple]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
akh jalwe haevith aashiqan                        
    [ your lovers could only sneak a peek]
falwa tche karith gokh                    
  [having driven us mad, you were gone]
chui aalma deywaan,                        
     [whole world having gone mad]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
maeshravthas janaan                            
    [my love, you have forgotten me]
tche kar yaad pyamai bo                  
     [when will you remember me]
[Lal Ded, Vakh] ami pana so’dras,      
[with weak untwisted thread]
navi chas lamaan                                                      

[ I am towing my soul boat]
kar bozi dai myon, myeti di taar      
   [would my God listen, help me cross]
amyn tak’yn poyn zan tshamaan         

[like water slow seeping through an unbaked clay pot]
zuv chum bramaan ghar gatshaha      
 [the desire to be home grips my lonely heart]

-0-

Audio Credits: Song: Maeshravthas Janaan

Singer: Vishal Pandita

Lyrics: A.Q. Rasa Javidani

Original composer: Virender Mohan Deewan “Virji”

Composition: Music/Mixing/Mastering: Varun (i Music)

Rabab: Swastik Bhat

Translation: Vinayak Razdan

Video Credits:

In Frame: Vishal Pandita

DOP/Director/Editor: Rohit Pandit (RP Films Jammu)

Concept: Karan

Line Producer: Ashish Raina

Team RP Films: Rashika Bhat & Umesh Bhat

Poster Design: RP Films Jammu

Special Thanks: Dr. Ramesh Nirash for pheran, people at Bhagwan Gopinath Ashram Kharyaar, people at Habba Kadal, locals of Dharbagh for helping us find Zooni House, people of Rainawari, the boatmen and people of Kralpoora Budgam.

-0-

Can set as ringtone in all major networks.

Music Download and Streaming links:

Spotify

Gaana

JioSaavn

Wynk

Hungama

itunes store

Apple Music

Amazon Music

Deezer

Birth and Journey of Vitasta – mother river of Kashmir

Guest post by Late Manmohan Munshi ji detailing the story of Vitasta river. He had shared it with me a decade back and wanted me to publish it by adding detailed maps, images and illustrations. It was quite a task, I wasn’t sure if I could do it and then I forgot about it, but I think the work is finally complete. Manmohan Munshi ji passed away last year.

According to Nilmatpurana it was Sati daughter of Himal Parvata consort of Shiva who was called Uma in Vaisvara Antra and is the same goddess as Vitasta and the same is Kasmira. The Goddess Vitasta is verily the holy river remover of all sins. People who offer their bodies to, or die within its water in their bellies reach heaven without any hindrance. Those persons who take bath in Vitasta do not see even in dreams the tortures of Hell. Vitasta gives protection with her hands to the evil doing sinners falling into the hell. Fire of hell is pacified with cool outpourings of the drops sent from the waves of Vitas carried by the wind,. A person merely listening to the glory of Vitasta goes free from sins. The only thing that Ganga has more that of Vitasta are the heaps of bones of human beings all other things are equal. The river draining the entire Kashmir Valley called by Kashmiris as “Vyath” is the direct derivative of the original Sanskrit name Vitasta. The intermediary Prakit from Vidasta was altered by Greeks to Hydaspes. Vitasta is also mentioned in the river names of Rigveda. In Vayupurana, Vitasta has been referred as Biloda and Wular Lake as Bilodia situated south of Dumra Lohita ( Nanga Parbat)- The king of mountains. The present name Jhelum River has been adopted from the city of Jhelum besides which it flows in Pakistan . The name was brought to Kashmir by European travelers and found its way in official use otherwise the river is still known to the natives as Vyath.

Kashmiri painting collected by David J. F. Newall in 1850s and presented in his book ‘The Highlands of India’ (1882) and Preliminary Sketches in Cashmere; Or, Scenes in “Cuckoo-cloudland.” By (D.J.F. Newall.) [With Illustrations.] (1882).
route of jhelum river. 1920. You could take a doonga or a house boat for a month and this be the tourism highway from Kashmir valley. All a hundred years back.

The river Vitasta can be considered to have formed at the confluence of [i]Harspatha(Arapat), [ii] Bringa (bring) and [iii] Sandran[older name not known]. But the old holy scriptures have traced the origin of Vitasta to a more specific source. As already stated in Nilmata Purana, Harcaritacintamani and subsequently quoted in latter references Vitasta is a manifestation of goddess Parvati. After Satisar(Parvati’s lake ) was drained of its water and demon Jalodbava destroyed by Vishnu, Brahma and Maheshvara, at the request of sage Kasyapa Maheshvara persuaded Parvati to show herself in Kashmir in the form of a river to purify the Manavs (humans) from the unholy contact of Pisachas . The goddess assumed the form of an underground river and asked Shiva to make an opening by which she could come to the surface in the form of a river. Shiva by striking the ground with his trisul on 13th of Badra Shuakula Paksha from which the river gushed forth receiving the name of Vitasta, after the measure of the ditch of one Vitasti. Since then the birthday of Vitasta is celebrated on on 13th Badra Shakula Paksha. The spring from where the goddess flowed in river form became known by several names Nilanaga (Abode of Nila), Nila Kunda, Sulaghata(Trisul thrust) or simply Vitasta. The name of Varnag /Veri nag seems to have adopted at a latter stage probably after the administrative unit of Var Pargana. It is said that Vitasta disappeared from fear of defilement from the contact of Sinful men but reappeared second time by the prayers of Kasyapa at Panchasta (Panzath) in Devsar Pargana., disappeared again and reappeared at Narasima. The Goddess was finally induced to stay permanently when Kasyapa secured for her the company of Lakshmi in the form of Visoka (Vesheu) and Ganga in the form Sindhu(Sind River) [not to be confused with Indus. Sachi consort of Indra as Haraspatha(Arpat), Aditi the mother of the gods as Trikoti [probably Sandran] and Ditti as [Chandravati] mother of Datiyas [close to verinag, probably Bring]. According to another legend Vitasta made her second appearance at Vitastatra (Vethvatur) close to Verinag. Clear mention of Nilanaga (Verinag) as the birth place of Vitasta by Kalhana leaves no doubt about the tradition prevailing in his time.

Map of Shahbad, Anantnag. By Sahib Ram Kaul. 1860s. Vitasta and the springs taking birth below Panchaladeva(Pir Panchal) range. What starts as snow in mountains, melts, seeps into moulins, drops, emerges as river goddesses and spring gods at bottom. Giving birth to life in valley and a civilization.

This map is important as this is specifically map of village Gutalgund, the place with nits many spring which is/was known as actual source of Vitasta.

The place gets its name from spring of vitasta bagwati (marked on map next to big splash).
Map of Verinag Spring. Sabib Ram Kaul. 1860s.
Nilanag Spring. Verinag. Vinayak Razdan. 2014.
Vitastatra Nag/Vethvatur. Early 1940s. Stein collection.
Pancahasta Springs. Panzath. Early 1940s. Stein collection.
Shushramnaga (Sheeshnag), Circa 1955
Kapatesvara. Early 1940s. Stein Collection.
Akasvala (Achibal ). Circa 1915
Machbawan(Matan). Circa 1910

The rivulet of Bring is fed by springs of Trisandhya, Ardanarisvsra, and Kapartesvara(Koter). Akasvala(Achibal) feed the Harspatha (Arpat). Lidari which derives its waters from the glaciers of Koenjar and Gashbrar (Kolahoi glacier), Lakes of Shushramnaga (Sheeshnag), Tarsar, and springs of Machbawan(Matan) and other sources joins the Vitasta slightly down stream of Anantnag and flows in a single channel except in Srinagar City. In its north westerly course between Anantnag and Baramulla a distance of about 90 Kilometers , the river bed falls slightly less than seven meters in elevation. Islands if any are sandy and temporary except the one at the present Vitasta-Sindhusamgama near Shadipur which was artificially built.

Locality of Shivpora. 1903. Viewed from Gopadari Hill named after King Gopaditya, circa 3rd century AD. After him is named Gupkar ( Gopa – Agrahara (“Agrahara” + land given by Kings to Brahmins for maintenance of temples)). In late 19th century, Gupkar came into prominence as English had villa there and Maharaja was close by. Stein also studied Kashmir history Rajatarangini here in one such lodge quarter.

The most conspicuous meander of the river is located immediately south of Gopadri (Shankracharya hill) round the flood prone locality of Shivpura. The course of Vitasta has not changed during the historic times except at the Vitasta-Sindhusamgama where it was altered by Suyya the able engineer of King Avantivarman in the 9th century.Between Mahpadamsaras (Wular Lake) and Huskapura (Uskar) Vitasta flows in a south westerly direction and beyond Uskar in a west-noth-westrly direction upto Muzafrabad Kohala aree where it is joined by Krashna (Kishenganga)river. At Wular and Muzafrabad Vitasta abruptly makes south westerly due to the Synataxial bend of the western Himalayas in common with other rivers of the region. Downstream of Anantnag is located Vijayeksetra,(modern Vijbror) one of the holiest sires where temples of Shiva, Vajesvara, Vishnochakradara Ashokvehara and numerous viharas and agarharas and a university of learning [where students- scolars from countries beyond Kasmira used to come for study of Shastras, astronomy astrology and other subjects]once flourished.

Gambhira Sangam = Vitasta + (Vishav + Rembyar, Stein’s Gambhira). Gambhira Sangani of Rajatarangini. Sangam at Kakapora. Between Bijbehara and Avantipur. 2014. Vinayak Razdan.
Something about the bridge from updated Rājataraṅgiṇī:
“It may be noted that this crossing has a certain strategic impotence. On occasion of a rising in 1930 in parts of Jammu territory, sympathizers in the Kasmir valley took care to burn the wooden bridge by which the modern motor road from Srinagar to Banhal pass crosses here the river. It has been since replaced by an iron one duly guarded.” ~Luther Obrock (ed.) Marc Aurel Stein – Illustrated Rājataraṅgiṇī (2013)
Konsar Nag. Source of Visoka (Vesheu). Early 1940s. Stein collection.

United waters of(i) Visoka (Vesheu) issuing from Kramasaras (KonsarNag) also known as VishnuPad near the tirtha of Naubandana where Vishnu, Brahma and Mashevara took positions to destroy the demon Jalodbhava and (ii)Ramanatvi (Rembyar)originating near Bhab and Nandan sars join the Vitasta along the left bank as Gambhira (the deep) at Gambhira Samgama (Sangum) below Vijbror where king Chandrapida built a Vishnu temple Gamirsvamin of which no trace is left now A few kilometers downstream of Sangum Vitasta is joined by a relatively smaller stream Chaturvedi (Narastan nala ) Below the confluence of this stream King Awantivarman founded his capital at Awantipura and built two temples Avantisvamin and Avantisvara dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva respectively. Both of these and like other temples of the valley Were vandalized by by Skindar butshikan at the end of 14 th Century. The ruins at present are testimonies to their former glory. Some of the carved stones from these temples have been used in foundation and plinth of nearby Muslim Ziarats.

Vitasta near Awantiswamin Temple, Avantipur. John Burke’s photograph from 1868

Further downstream Vitasta is joined along the left bank by Ramshu (Ramu or Kakpor Kol) rising in the Pantsal mountains by the side of the forgotten temple of Gangodbheda or Bhedagiri(Badbrar) one of the few Sarasvati temples of Kashmir. At the present village of Kakpor ruins of an old temple believed by some authorities of the time of King Khagendra the founder of Khagendapura (Kakpor) and by others as remains of the Utplasvamin, a Vishnu temple built by Utpla an uncle of King Cippatajayapida . In case the former identification is correct the ruins can be one of the oldest in Kashmir, if the latter is correct can be of the ninth century . Just opposite Kakpor on the right bank of the river is the saffron karewah and small township to Lalitpura(Letpur) founded by architect of Laltaditya. North of Lalitpur in former Viha Pargana a number of ruins of old Hindu temples at Barsu, Ladhu, Balhom some converted to Muslim Ziarats can be traced even today. The Vishnu temple of Padmasvamin built by Padma another uncle of King Cippatajayapida at Padmapura (Pampore) is also now in ruins. Stones from its ruins have been used in the construction of Muslim Ziarats.. Another Vishnu temple by the name of Samarasvamin on the left bank of the river opposite Panduchak was built by Samara a minister of King Avantivarman of which no trace is seen now. Close to Panduchak in Viha pargana is the Tirtha of Takshakanaga at Jeyyavana (Zewan ) and is visited by devotees even today especially at the time of solar eclipses .Further downstream is the temple of Merudasvamin built by Meruda a minister of King Partha.

Takshaka Naga. Zewan. Early 1940s. Stein collection.
Course of Vitasta river through Srinagar. 1920

It is believed that the City of Srinagari (Srinagar) capital of Kasmira was founded by Emperor Ashoka At Pandrethan – the present cantonment of Badami Bagh when Pravarasena ii shifted the capital to Pravapura [the high ground between Kasurikabla(Khodbal) and Harparvata(Hariparbat) the old capital came to be known as Puranadisthana. The ruins of other Hindu temples around Pandrethan were seen till beginning of early twentieth century About two Kilometers north of Puranadisthana is the hill of Gopdari also known as Jeyesthirudrarodrakhyparvata (Shankracharia Hill) top of which stands the temple of Jyestherudra (Shankrcharya temple) believed to have been originally built by Jaluka of which only the outer plinth remains. King Gopadiya rebuilt the temple at a later date and also viharas of Guphra (Gupkar). The temple was repaired again by King Zainulabdin the pious muislim ruler of Kashmir in 15th Century and also by Dogra rulers of Kashmir since early 20th century since then it is looked after by the Dharmarth trust. It is believed that the temple was approachable by a stone staircase from Sudhkshikheta (Shurayar). The stone steps were removed and built into Pathar Masjid o0jn the left bank of the river near Mujahid Manzil during the 17 th century by Noor Jehan ,queen of Emperor Jahangir.

Vitasta is joined by along its right bank by Mari or Mahasirat(Tsuntkol) issuing from Jeyarudrasaras (Dal Lake) at Marisamgama which was considered as a holy Tirtha in ancient times . The island formed between Vitasta Tsuntkol and latter’s southerly flowing branch was known by the name of Maksvamin and had a Vishnu temple by the same name of which no trace is left today. Opposite the Marisamgama on the left bank of Vitasta Kippitiska or Kutkulia (Kutkol) leaves the Vitasta and after flowing in a north westerly direction bifurcates into two the right one falls back into Vitasta above Safakadal and and the left one joins Duddhaganga (Dudganga or Chat Kol) which also falls into Vitasta near Chatabal. The area between Vitasta and Kutkolia was known by the name of Katol. It is not very clear if the Kutkolia is a natural channel or manmade. It may have been build by Hindu Rulers as a defense moat after Srinagar started spreading along the left bank of Vitasta.

Zaina Kadal. Srinagar. Dome of tomb of Zaina,s mother in background.
People watching Nehru’s Boat procession from Ganpatyaar Ghat, Srinagar. May 1948.

Below the Marisamgama at the present Malyar Ghat stood the temple of Vardamanesa of which nothing is left today . A Linga serving as lamp post in a nearby Mosque believed to be from the original Vardamanesa temple was removed and installed in Malyar Temple in 1818. Immediately below Habakadal Bridge on the right bank is the Somyar temple, site of the ancient Somatirtha . Similarly situated on the left bank is Purushyar the site of ancient temple of SadaSiva. Between Haba Kadal and Fatehkadal on the right bank of Vitasta is the locality of Narparistan near Malikangan, stood the temple of Naresheri which was converted into a Ziarat during the muslim rule. Further downstream between Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal also along the same bank was bank was located the temple of Kalisheri which was destroyed and rebuilt as ziarat of Shah Hamdan by Sikandar Butshikan. The oldest bridge over the Vitasta in the City was known as Mahasetu it was a boat bridge like a modern poonton bridge which could be removed during emergencies like war etc. At the location of the Mahasetu Zainulabdin built the first permanent timber bridge across the Vitasta in 15 th century which came to be known as Zaina Kadal and other muslim rulers followed by building a number of timber bridges in the city and elsewhere across the Vitasta. Again on the right bank of the river betwen Zainakadal and Alikadal is the tomb of the queen of Sikandar Buthshikan and burial place for other muslim rulers known as Mazar Salatin. The Tomb which is built entirely of bricks very similar in architecture to the tomb of Bibi Jawandi at Uchchh Sharif near Multan in Pakistan. Its foundations & embankments on the riverside and material used in the surrounding walls betray it to be site of an ancient Hindu temple.

Further downstream on the same bank of the river almost touching the bridge is the Ziarat of Wyusi sahaib which also due to its foundations,embankments and the entrance appears to be site of an original Hindu temple. Nothing is known about the antiquity of these two temples/shrines. Near the locality of Chatabal confluence of Dudhaganga (Dudganga or Chata Kol) [issuing from the Pantsal Mountains] with Vitasta was the site Tirtha of Dudhagangasamgama now completely forgotten. The other temples and hindu shrines, namely Hanuman Mandir, Ghadadhar Kharyar,Malyar Raghunath temple are relatively of recent construction. However it is possible that a few of these temples like Ganpatyar were rebuilt at ancient sites.

Bridge over Kutkol canal. 1926.
 Starting point of Tsont Kul near Chinar Bagh. 1910
Tsunt Kul. Apple Canal, 1881..
Vitasta leaving Srinagar. Chattabal Weir. 1920s. Personal collection. Vinayak Razdan

Between Srinagar and Shadipur the Vitasta is not joined by any major tributary except the Sukhnag along the left bank. The Sindhu(Sind river) rising from the Great Himalaya Range south east of Amreshvara ( Amarnathji Cave) joined by glacier fed streams of Panjtarangini (Panjtarni), Amurveth(Amravati), Nehnar etc, outflows of of the lakes of Utrasaras or Utraganga(Gangabal), Koladuga,(Nandkol) springs of Sodara (Naranag) uniting into Kankavahini (krenk nadi) flowing in Nandiksetra at the foot of Harmukh mountains by the sides of Buthesvara, Jyesterudra, Ciramokana, at Kankpura (Kangan) used to meet Vitasta at Vitasta-Sindhu Samgama till the ninth century. Immediately west of the gap of Badrakhel nala between the Vudars (karewas) of Parihaspura (Paraspur) and Trigami (Trigom) close to the sites of ruined temples Vishunosvamin, Vinayaswamin about 5 Kms south west of the present confluence at Sundribavana (Naran bagh) near Parihaspura was founded by Lalitaditya as his capital which according to Kalhana excelled heaven. Lalitaditya whom Kalhana has called “Indra of the earth “ built numerous other temples Parihaskesva with the image ofVishnu in silver pearls, Mukhtakesva with golden image of Vishnu, Mahavara with Vishn’s image in golden armour. And silver image of Goverdandhara, Bradbuddha numerous viharas ,agarharas and palaces. Even his queen Kamlavati built Kamlahatta with silver image of Kamalakesva. One of Lalitaditya ‘s ministers Mitrasarmamn installed the Shivlinga of Mitresvara. Needless to say that the site of the capital Parihaspura and numerous temples was apparently chosen for proximity to Vitasta-sindhusamgama, the former being regarded as manifestation of Yamuna and the latter that of Ganga. Suyya the able engineer of King Avantivarman by his expertise shifted the location of Vitasta-Sindhu Samgama from Parihaspura to the vicinity of Sundribhavana by forcing the course of Vitasta north eastwards by construction of embankments to reclaim cultivable land fromfrom Nambals (marshes) and flood prone areas. A Vishnu temple by the name of Yogasvamin was also built by Suyya at Sundribhavana at the instance of King Avativarman. The material from the ruins of the said temple seem to have used for building of the solid masonry walls of the island with a solitary chinar tree at the present confluence [referred as Prayaga in the Vitasta Mahatmaya ] at a latter date.

Vitasta-Sindhusamgama. The Chinar tree at Shadipore in a photograph by Fred Bremner. 1905 
The river in the left foreground with greyish coloured water is the Sind river and the other with the bluish green coloured water in the right background is the Jhelum. Suyya the able engineer of King Avantivarman by his skill shifted the position of Vitastasindhusamgama from Parihaspura Trigami area to its present location in the vicinity of Sundribhavana (Naran Bagh) by forcing the course of Vitasta north east wards by blocking its original course with embankments to reclaim the cultivable land from flood prone areas and marshes. A Vishnu temple by the name of Yogavasmin was also built by Suyya at the instance of Avantivarman. Photo: Manmohan Munshi

Beyond the Sangama, Vitasta continues to flow north west wards by the side of Vaskur village [Rupbhawani’s shrine) and receives the outflow of Manasaras (Manasbal Lake) at Sumbal, and after passing Jayapura (Indrakoot) enters the Mahapadmasaras (Wular lake). The ruins of the ancient buildings and temples at Jayapura founded by King Jayapida on an island like raised ground among the nambals (marshes) south of Sumbhal were seen up o the middle of 20th century. King Jayapida also built the castle of Bayokota on the peninsulalike ridge Dwarpati with three images of Buddah and a temple of Jaya devi. According to Kalhana inner town of the castle excelled heaven in beauty. According to an ancient legend the site of Mahapadamsars was occupied by a wicked Naga Sadangula who was exiled by the Naga king Nila to Darvisara . The site left dry was occupied by the township of Chandrapura ruled by the king Visvagavas.. Mahapadma Naga in the disguise of a Brahman approached Visvagavas and after securing the king’s permission to reside in the city appeared in his true form with the result that the king and his subjects had to migrate westwards to a new town of Visvagaspura.

Ruins on Zaina Lank island, Wular Lake. Kashmir. ) circa 1910. [via: Leiden University Libraries, Netherlands]
The story goes that Zain-ul-Abidin was told about the existence of an island temple in Wular lake. He sent men to investigate. Some ruins and gold sculptures were found under water at the spot. The sculptures were sold and a proper island was built with a palace and a mosque atop the temple. The purpose of Island creation was not just religious. The creation of man-made islands was an ancient technique used to make big lakes navigable. The island cause wave diffraction, smaller waves do not collide to become bigger waves, hence reducing the chances of creation of giant waves (“wav jinn” in Kashmir) for which Wular was famous. This is also the reason why there are islands in Dal lake.
It was here that the Persian inscription in stone bearing the name of Zain-ul-Abidin in relation to founding of the island in 1443/4 was found. The inscription reads:
May this place endure like the foundation of heaven !
Be known to the world by the name of Zaina Dab!
So that Zain-ul-abdin may hold festivities therein,
May it ever be pleasant like his own date !
Ruler on a boat with attendants
17th century, reign of Jahangir
British Museum
Jahangir’s trip to Wular Lake. Island with ruins.

At present Vitasta enters Mahapadamsars (Wular lake) at the north eastern corner and leaves it at the south western corner near Suyyapura (sopore). A glance from a high mound will show that a peninsula like ridge projects into the lake . Due to continuous deposition of silts from Vitasta along the eastern side of the lake has resulted in turning the eastern side of the lake into marshes and swamps and shrinkage of the clear water area of the lake. Similar silting relatively on a smaller scale going along its northern fringes of the lake by Madhumati stream (Bandpur Nala). It can also be summarized from the fact that waters of Vitasta are silty at the inflow (especially during rains ) and clear at the outflow near Sopore. The scientific reason for this being that transporting capacity of water is directly proportional to the velocity of the current. When any river enters a lake the velocity of its current drops ,resulting in deposition of silts in stagnant and relatively low velocity of water It is corroborated from the historical facts that man made island of Jainalanka (Zainlank) which according to Jonaraja was surrounded by waters and at present is surrounded by marshes and dry land . If the silting of Wular is not checked, the great and biggest fresh water lake in the state will be reduced to a marshy land similar to Anchar,Hokarsar or Pambsar with river slowly meandering through it. In case Wular has to be preserved for future generations, an alternative between Sumbal and downstream of Sopore by passing the lake which existed in the past has to be rejuvenated through which the waters of the river will have to be regulated by a barrage/ veer during heavy rains, floods or whenever the water of the river will turn muddy thus saving the Wular lake from silting. The silts of Bandipur nala can be prevented from entering Wular Lake by construction of a cofferdam and the silts thus accumulated upstream of the dam can be removed from time to time for construction purposes.

Sopore. Early 1950s.
Vitasta at Baramulla. 2014. Vinayak Razdan

Downstream of Suyyapura (Sopore ) in Kashmir valley Vitasta receives its last major tributary along its right bank the Pahara (Pohur) draining the north western corner of the valley and being of steeper gradient and faster current than Vitasta deposits silts in the latter’s bed resulting in rise of the water level upstream. However from time to time at the site of confluence of Pahara with Vitasta silts have been removed by dredging in the recent past. Vitasta after leaving the last major town of the valley Baramula enters its mountainous course at Huskapura(Uksur) beyond which it becomes unsuitable for navigation. The name Vaharamula (Baramula or Varmul) has been derived from the ancient Tirtha of Vishnu -Adi -Vahara where Vishnu was worshiped since time immemorial as a medieval boar. On western extremity of the town near KothiTirtha till very recently a number of ruins were seen but not much is known about their antiquity.

Vitasta near Uri. 2014. Vinayak Razdan.

Between Uskar and Uri, Vitasta flows in a south westerly direction and beyond somewhatin a north Westerly direction upto Muzafrabad where it is joined by Krashna (Kishen Ganga) Kunar, Kahgan follows a southerly course up to Mangla near Jhelum forming the boundary between West Punjab and State of Jammu & Kashmir. From Mangla onwards Vitasta again heads in a south westerly direction before meeting Chandrabhaga( Chenab) near Jang-Sadar.

-0-

Seven Springs of Rainawari

Guest post by H.L. Raina. Former Deputy Superidenting Archaeological Engineering, ASI. H.L. recalls the location of the springs in Rainawari area using memories from 1980s. It was these springs that were the life pulse of the stream that made Rainawari in Srinagar fabled “Venice of East”.

Naidyar Bridge and temple. 1974. Photo by By Bill Strong.

Kashmir is an oval shaped Valley surrounded by snow peaked mountains ranging from 12000 ft. to 18000 ft. and at 5000 ft. from the sea level. The melting of snow from these mountains is supposed to be the source of water in the Valley which has created wonderful lakes, springs and other sources of clear and pure water. Kashmir has been famous from ancient times for five main things like: learning, lofty houses, saffron, icy waters of lakes and springs and grapes. The main river of the valley is Vitasta which divides the Valley into two halves connectivity of this City is maintained by the five bridges ,which have further been added during some time back. The great Sindh River also flows in the Valley but at a downstream merging with the main Vitasta river near a village called Sumbal forming a Sangam/Prayaga. Among Hindus Prayaga is considered to be one of the Holiest place of pilgrimages for Holy dip in it the Kashmir had the distinction of having its own Prayaga. Unlike this Sangam the Prayaga of Allahabad is supposed to be the holiest Pilgrimage Centre of Hindus where most of the Hindu Rituals are observed. The confluence of Vitasta and Sindh can be compared like Vitasta corresponding to Jamuna and Sind to Ganges. Hindus of Valley used to perform their Religious rituals etc. at Allahabad Sangam. Poor Hindus of Kashmir could hardly afford to move to Allahabad for such rituals which happened to be too cumbersome besides costlier in ancient times.

Rainawari Maar. 1920s. Mahatta Postcard. From personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

Among several lakes of Kashmir the Dal lake is supposed to be famous than all other lakes. It is connected with small and big canals which feeds its water from Dal and finally join the main river Jhelum of Kashmir. One of the biggest Canal coming from Dal traverses through narrow floating Gardens and other Orchards just to mingle with Chunt Kul and other sub-canals finally to merge with the main river Vitasta .This biggest canal coming from Dal is locally called Maar which passes via modern Rainawari, besides providing floating passage for small and big Boats for navigation into the interiors of smaller Mohallas thus connecting Dal Lake with people who might like to have Shikara ride. This ride might give them the opportunity to enjoy Shikara ride with surrounding floating Gardens bearing the growth of Water melons and other vegetables grown there on and finally reaching to Dal anchoring the Houseboats. Rajanavatika, the ancient name by which the present Rainawari was known, was considered the largest suburbs of Srinagar falling on North side traversed by numerous canals coming from Dal Lake. This Rajanavatika was inhabited mostly by Brahmins. These Brahmins were responsible for creating problems for King Suseela during his adverse streits by resorting to solemn fasts (Prayopavesa) modern Satyagraha for meeting their demands. This perhaps Satyagraha was brain-child of these Brahmins. Ranawari was predominantly inhabited by Kashmiri Brahmins belonging to “Rainas” sub caste, which is why people have general notion about its name. Infact, some people say Raina being the sub-caste of people and in Kashmiri Language Rainawari is supposed to be mix of Raina + Wari (“Wari “ in Kashmiri means Garden) thus forming the combination word “Rainawari”. The inhabitants living on the either side on this suburban Nallah (Kul) coming from Dal lake in the earlier times happened mainly to be Hindus. It is but natural to find small and big Temples with a ghat on most of these banks. These ghats would enable them to have Sandhya rituals and bathing before entering these Temples. This canal was navigable for people to reach Dal Lake besides being conduit for sub canals. Existence of many such sub Canals cannot be ruled out in Rajanavatika (Rainawari) in those days.

One of such sub-canal penetrated deep into the part of Mohalla Naidyar at the entry point of this Mar into Rainawari. This sub-canal facilitated the inhabitants of this area to have a link of communication with other parts of the area by Shikaras, small boats and mini houseboats or doongas, besides providing parking for the boats. As there were no means of communication in those ancient times therefore they relied on navigation through these small boats.

This sub-canal enters at the right hand side where the big famous Orchard known as Nar-Batun –Bagh after coming from Dal lake ultimately culminating after reaching its dead end . There happened a big Chinar Tree a few yards beyond the end of this sub-canal towering over a small Spring [1] having fresh and clean water forcing its way to mingle with this part of Canal.

Moving back towards its entry point a Wonderful stepped Ghat touching the Octori Post Hut that has a common wall with old Ancient Mughal Bridge of Naidyar. This is the starting point to take one to the walking path through Dal Lake so as to reach the famous Nishat Bagh. This Canal water near Octori Post flows down the Naidyar Bridge which touches the right hand side of its bank having a beautiful Temple enshrining Wonderful Shiva-Ling. A Temple is supposed to have a Bathing Ghat near the vicinity of the temple so that the devotees before entering the temple have to take a bath so that they could offer the prayer in it. Yes this Temple too happened to have had well laid Stepped well-dressed Ashlar Masonry Ghat adjoining this Temple for those who might like to have a bath before entering it. At the end of the steps of the Ghat on opposite side of Temple main entrance towards Western side one would encounter an old gabletted four story building standing majestically. At the bottom fringes of this building from this running Nallah there is a beautiful Spring [2]. This spring is paved with fine dressed ashlar Stone Masonry all around including bottom flooring. This spring has a inherent character to bear sparkling clear and cold water during Summer months and warm water during winter months. People make use of this water as per needs of the Residents of the Locality.

Pandit woman and Muslim woman. Karapora Ghat. Naidyar Bridge in distance. Circa 1904. Magic lantern slide. Personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

On the opposite side of this Maar (Canal) Spring has a large orchard consisting of special type of Pears and other varieties of fruit trees. In the center of this orchard is a spacious Kashmiri Architectural Building which is Housing the D. A. V .School which was perhaps donated to this School by its owner called Daya Kishen perhaps this might be the reason why this orchard was called Daya Kishen’s Bagh. This Maar moves downwards slowly and steadily and touches the steps of the Ghat on its right hand side called Karapora. At the mid of this stepped ghat a beautiful Spring (3) is situated under the big Chinar tree. The fresh and pure water pouring out from it finally falling into the Nallah Maar below. This spring too bears warm water during winter months and cold water during summer months. This spring has been provided with fine dressed stone pavement all along at the end of this Ghat there is a Temple at the edge of its compound wall touching the waters of Maar. The temple here houses number of deities unlike the Temple of Naidyar, a Shivling too is in the center of this Temple symbolically.

There appears no change in the speed of flow of water as it moves further ahead till it kisses a Spring (4) on the left side of this Maar opposite the Karapora Temple, the water from this spring mingles with the flowing Water of Maar. The people in and around this Spring live in the Mohallah is known as Keni Mohallah. The seasonal cold and warm water of this Spring serves them as and when there is need for that.

Bod Mandir. Circa 1904. Magic lantern slide. Personal collection of Vinayak Razdan

The Nallah Maar heads forward downward to reach Ghat Jogi-Lanker, before reaching to this place it sub-divides into small sub-miniature canal and this sub-canal which is the off- shoot serves those Mohallah falling on or above the banks of these sub-canals etc. Ghat-Jogilanker too has stepped Ghat on the both banks of the Maar. The pedestrians make use of wooden bridge across this sub-canal. Ghat Jogilanker falls on the right hand bank of this Canal which serves as a parking place for the Shikaras which take people to different places of City, as the sub-maar moves further onwards it touches the compound wall of Saraf Park on the right hand side. This sub-canal further sub divides one of which moves towards Mohallah Kralyar, before reaching there it has to pass through a small wooden Bridge leading to Kralyar Ghat. This sub-canal has a motorable small road running parallel to it, which is an extension of the bigger road coming from Surtang to Kralyar. At the first division of the canal one could see the conical top of a Temple known as Bood-Mandir of Rainawari its entry from the left hand side of the road. A wonderful fresh water of a Spring (5) on the opposite side of this Temple coming from the rim of the wall of Kachroo’s House. Its water too has the character of having cold and warm water during summer and winter respectively. On the other side of the Canal, after crossing the motorable road a magnificent women School along with the famous College has come up which was founded by some prominent Kashmiri Pandiths of Rainawari, one among them happened to be my father (Late Maheshwar Nath Raina) who had the privilege to be one of the founder member of this Women Welfare Committee of Rainawari. It was built Brick by brick after reclaiming the backyard Marshy Land. This little Temple of Education developed into a full-fledged Educational Institute for Women by the name of Vishwa Bharati Institution of Education. I do hope it still continues to impart the Education to Women not only of Rainawari but to all who might need it.

The sub canal before reaching to Kralyar Ghat is supplemented by the spring water coming from what was known as Bagdagi near Kachha road. There happened a Spring (6) above the bank of the Kachha Kralyar Ghat in between the House of Tickoo’s and Jalalali’s House. Its water being fresh and clear, helped the people of this locality by providing warm water during winter months and cold water in Summer months. This spring used to be submerged whenever the level of the canal used to rise.

The sub- canal extends from the Kachha Ghat of Kralyar and forces its way towards left where a wooden bridge connects Kralyar and Jogilanker. This water forces its way to reach to Vital Bhairav of Motiyar where it mingles with main Nallah. Vaital Bhairav has a wonderful stepped Ashlar Stone Ghat bearing a well laid Spring (7) which is most of the time submerged with the main Nallah water thus making difficult for the people to judge the quantum of water coming out from it, even the variation of temperature of water during winter and summer cannot be determined. The canal thus formed does not stop here but continues to push off downwards. The main Maar Canal water after covering Bod Mandir area and other places on its way trifurcates after moving further, one part moves deep into the City the other part makes a bend towards left till it reaches Gagribal and finally once again joins Dal water. The other moves towards Centre till it joins Chunt Kul and finally falls into the Vatasta.

A hand drawn rough map of the spring locations. From memory by H.L. Raina.
Locations extrapolated onto Google Map based on text and hand map. Position of Spring 6 is having a wider margin of error. Most of the temples in the area are now dumping ground. Most of the springs gone but some surviving in decrepit state.
Recent image of spring 3. Shared by a local, Syed Yasir via Twitter in response to map.

-0-

by Charles W. Bartlett, 1919. Probably Kralyaar Ghat.

-0-

Additional note not in original write-up

According to Tarikh-i- Sayid Ali (1569): 14th century queen Kota Rani had a brother named Ravan Raina. Ravan Raina had a son named Abdal Raina. Abdal Raina laid out Rajanakavatika, Garden of Rainas (skt. Rajanaka), area now known as Rainawari.

In Google Maps only one natural spring officially marked in data for area. The spring exists before Naidyaar Bridge [ marked on right side of the image]. The spring seems to be in a better preserved state and is near a Muslim shrine. In past, there may well have been many more springs in the area.

-0-

Archival Video Compilation: Life on river and lakes of Kashmir.

video link

using archival footage going back from 1930s to 60s, we take a look at how life moved to the rhythm of water in Kashmir. We see why Srinagar was fabled as the “Venice of East”. And we see how Hanjis (boat people) were central to this life and tale.

-o-

Edit: SearchKashmir

Original Music – Kartik Koul & Akash Sage

Mix Master – Akash Sage

-0-

Previously:

Sahib Ram’s Tirathsangrah Maps and the Sacred Geography of Kashmir

Like for many of his generation, Sahib Ram Kaul’s exact date of birth is not known. What is known is that his father Dila Ram Kaul was revenue officer in the court of Maharaja Gulab Singh and lived in Anantnag. His mother was daughter of scholar Pandit Tika Lal Razdan of Srinagar. When his father died, Sahib Ram was only seven. His mother moved to Srinagar and that is where he grew and got his education. Sahib Ram eventually started his own family at Drabiyar, Srinagar.

Sometime after 1865 when Maharaja Ranbir Singh ascended the throne of Jammu and Kashmir, Sahib Ram Kaul, the best of Pandits of the time, the head of newly formed Sanskrit Mahavidyalaya was tasked with finding the old ancient texts of the place, in Sanskrit, Persian, Arabic, so that they could be placed in the library of the university for production of fresh scholarship. It was for this project that Sahib Ram Kaul procured various copies of Nilamatapurana and then finding them unsatisfactory, produced a critical edition that however was never published even as few decades later western scholars like Georg Bühler and Aurel Stein were to find Sahib Ram Kaul had shown which parts of Nilamatapurana had been used by Kalhana in Rajatarangini even as they at times disagreed with Sahib Ram’s approach. His work was to prove beneficial to these western men who arrived seeking glimpses of Kashmir past and it was widely accepted that Sahib Ram Kaul was the pinnacle of Kashmirian scholarship of his era.

What made Sahib Ram Kaul stand out was not just his skills of the languages (Sanskrit, Persian [he studied in a Persian language Maktab (school)] till the age of 18, picking up sanskrit only in adulthood) and his work on texts (ranging from shastras, kvyas, itihasa, commentary on erotica [Pañcasāyaka of by Kaviśekhara Jyotirīśvara], translation of work on Islamic morality [Ahalq-e Mohseni/Viraratnasekharasikha]) but his rooted understanding of geography of Kashmir in which he was able to visualize the past from present. The materialization of that vision of Sahib Ram Kaul was Kashmiriatirathasangrah, a work compiling all the major holy spots of Kashmir, mostly various nagas/springs all over the valley based on texts like Nilamatapurana, Kalhana’s Rajatarangini and Abu’l Fazl’s Ain-i-Akbari. Along with notes (in Sanskrit) Tirathasangrah had maps of the holy sites with topographical identifiers, local lore and village names. To compile the work, pandits across the valley were roped in to help collect the material. If there was a local spring or a holy village in some remote village, even that was recorded by Sahib Ram diligently. However, the work was never completed as Sahib Ram died in around 1870 or 72. The incomplete work already comprised hundred on pages of folia with maps, many of them incomplete, just sketched, not painted, some with no notes. The monumental work however was taken up again a few years later by his son Damodar Kaul

In 1875, when George Buhler arrived in Kashmir looking for Sanskrit manuscript, the “original” Rajatarangini and Nilamatapurana, he was directed to meet Sahib Ram’s son Damodar who was now the head of Sanskrit Mahavidyalaya. The visit triggered Damodar [who was working on continuing Kalhana’s Rajatarangini] to dwell into his father’s work. He again visited the locations mentioned by Sahib Ram in his maps, did a bit of digging at sites, probably to re-verify the claims of the text. The folios of Tirathasangrah got more notes. A copy was taken by Buhler to Poona. Decades later Stein for his translation and notes to Kalhana’s Rajatargini was to use the text to add notes to location of many (and many a) ancient sites like Sharda (which based on Sahib Ram’s work we find also existed at Khuyhom, Bandipore. Buhler probably informed by Damodar tells us it is at Horil in Khuyhom. Stein to add to that besides finding the actual Sharda, also tells us of a Sharda pilgrimage taken by Srinagar pandits to Harwan at a place called Sharda Kund ).

We find (and Stein mentions) that Pandits had forgotten the sites which were outside of valley, outside their area of influence, the “urban” areas, in the distant places, only lore, often mangled and jumbled, remained. They would visit holy sites, but often the origins were freshly re-invented. The limitation this brought about was noticed by Stein in Sahib Ram. Thus Stein who was trying to find the “true” meaning of texts, Sahib Ram’s work often proved too problematic. Centuries later, the work was summarised rather simplistically by political commentators as a political project of the Maharaja. A project to reclaim the Hindu past, ignoring the question if such a reclamation was needed by the community for survival.

The motivation of Sahib Ram Kaul in making the maps and studying the sites perhaps can be best understood by the fact that it was this man who pulled together the ruined pieces at top of Hari Parbat and reactivated the Chakreshwari Shrine. For Sahib Ram it was not just an academic project (like say for someone like Stein), instead, for Sahib Ram it was about putting back pieces and reclaiming. It was personal. When Stein notes that most Pandits didn’t know much of their own past, he is not wrong, and perhaps Sahib Ram was aware of that, and thus his project on the sites and history. It was a conscious effort by someone who could do something about it. It was not an act of some political vengeance as we can see that while executing his maps there is no erasure of islamic sites, the ziyarats. In fact, in the Maps, we find such monuments diligently shown in all their beauty. In Abul Fazal he must have read that in Kashmir valley there were 45 shrines dedicated to Shiva, 64 to vishnu, 3 to Brahma, 22 to Durga and around 700 nagas. In Sahib Ram’s time, in 1850s, although Pandits were again going on pilgrimages to sites like Tulamulla and Jwaladevi, the actual functional temples in Kashmir were not there yet. The temples that came up later and in this time were sites, which had lingered in memory, often people would bring broken discovered sculptures, place then at a site and worship. It was these sites that were verified by texts, sanctified by ruler, that gave birth to modern surviving functional temples in Kashmir. It was possible because of efforts of people like Sahib Ram. Yet, even today we find that most Kashmiri Pandits would be hard-pressed to make sense of the maps drawn by Sahib Ram. If Stein were to ask random Pandits today the same questions he asked them in 20th century, he would still conclude that they know little and have made up stories where the facts were missing, or that they have no interest. However, in all this it should be remembered that there has been no actual study of the work and few have actually seen the maps of Sahib Ram, fewer still even know about their existence, or even where it exists.

An original copy of Tirathsangrah was sold few years back on Bonhams. That told me the work did indeed exist (multiple copies?) and was in circulation.

About 250+ pages of maps from Tirathsangrah of Sahib Ram are at S.P.S Museum Srinagar (not on display!). A low-res digital version (with no proper details) was shared by them with National Mission on Monuments and Antiquities (NMMA), the (statewise) database for heritage, sites and antiquities.

Here, I am presenting some of the interesting maps from the collection, along with my notes on them.

Fig 1: Hari Parbat, Srinagar. Pradyuman Parbat of ancient texts. The walled city “Nagarnagar” of Akbar. Steps leading to the shrine of Chakreshwari. Various springs outside the wall, some of which still exist. [saw one a few years back which had been cleaned and revived as a public project by local government]

Sahib Ram has given quite detailed maps of the hill. Covering all the sides of it. Important in the light of the fact that he was instrumental in rebuilding the Hari Parbat temple.

Continue reading “Sahib Ram’s Tirathsangrah Maps and the Sacred Geography of Kashmir”

Be Aaro | Kashmiri Love Song | New Version

A SearchKashmir production. 5th in the series

Rahul Wanchoo sings “Be Aaro Teer Mo laay”, the classic by Vijay Malla ji written and composed originally by Rajesh Khar.

Featuring: Aparna Raina

Music and Direction: San J Saini

video link

-0-

Lyrics and Translation

Be Aaro Teero mo laay
O merciless, don’t throw these darts

me ha cham maay chaini
I am in love with you

logut kyazi beparwaai why act like you don’t care

me ha cham maay chaini
I am in love with love

lal royes saal karhai
a feast for this tulip face i will set

pyaal barhai panai
goblets of wine I will fill

thaal shirith kortham zaay
my plates of feast, all set to waste by you

me ha cham maay chaini
I am in love with you

seen mutchrith haal bavay
I will open my heart, show you how I feel

keen tchalhem jigras maybe this heartache will go

deedar haav kar myon paay
show your face, be my cure

me ha cham maay chaini
I am in love with you

-0-

Listen online:

Spotify

Gaana

JioSaavn

Hungama

Amazon Music

Kashmiri Pandits in Miniature Paintings

Kashmiri Pandit. 18th century. SPS Museum, Srinagar.
Kashmiri Pandit. 18th century. SPS Museum, Srinagar.
Kashmiri Pandit Couple. 19th century. Mead Art Museum, Massachusetts. via: twitter @Yael_Rice
“a Grunthee or Sikh who reads the Grunth & a Kashmiri Pandit”, watercolours on watermarked paper, circa 1850.Via twitter: ਸ੍ਰੀਖੜਗਕੇਤੁ (@Kharagket)
Facebook
YouTube
Instagram
RSS