Akhbaar

July, 2009

Sarkar  gir gai! Sarkar  gir gai! The government has fallen!’

At Amira Kadal, a young newspaper vendor was screaming at the top of his voice. The paper was selling briskly. Only paces away from him, on the same pavement, a distraught looking old man, another newspaper vendor, was trying to grab the attention of faceless morning crowd. He was beating the palm of his one hand on his head while the other hand was pointed towards his young competitor.

Ha yemis kya sa gao! Ha yemis ha’sa niyn ra’tith! What is wrong with him? They will get him! The government hasn’t fallen. He is lying through his teeth. Look at him. Stop him.’

People kept walking. He competitor kept making the pitch.

Previous day, the Chief Minister of the state, amid an uproar, had angrily walked out of the assembly house and later submitted his resignation. The resignation was rejected by the governor and the government did not fall.

Birch tree, Burza

A Birch tree (called Burz’e Kul) at Sonamarg.
A ‘murder’ atop Birch tree.
(Murder, that’s what a group of crows is called) These mountain crows are known as ‘De’v Kaw‘ or ‘god crow’. (more of them later)
Birch bark or Burza. In old days, when there was no paper, Birch was used for writing. A lot of ancient Kashmiri manuscripts are preserved on burza. [Restoration of these works]

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Tchir Tchot

Made from rice flour. Get its name because of the Tchir or sizzling sound that it makes on the tava (or Taaw, in Kashmir) while being prepared. I like to have it in the morning with a cup of Kahwa.

Kagazi Doon/ Paper Walnut

This variety are called Kagazi because its shell is supposed to be thin as paper and hence easy to break.
Makes a great chutney with green chilly and curd.

According to Kashmiri pandits, the four kernels of Walnut represent the four vedas.

Jajeer

The thing that goes: good good good

A Kashmiri with his Hookah.

If he coughs, he takes another drag. ‘It is good. Relieves the cough. Clears the chest. Just like a medicine.’ Takes another drag. Good Good Good.

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Jahamuk tamok
Tobacco from Jaham (ie, splendid tobacco).
Jaham tobacco is said to be the finest in the valley

– A Dictionary Of Kashmiri Proverbs and Sayings
(1885)
J. H. Knowles
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Photographs are by my father.

Smudgeler

An old angrez, all the way from England, had come to inspect the Biscoe school. Boys from different classes were gathered in a hall and the guy would ask them  various questions. In variable the question that gets asked is: What do you want to become? So after he asked this question to a bunch of boys, each time nodding his approval appreciating there replies – A Doctor, A Scientist, An Engineers, IAS, KAS, A Minister, A Lawyer, An Actor, A Singer – almost contend, other teachers wearing a proud smile, old geese stopped in front of a young boy who looked like he may have prepared and practiced his answer for days. This was his big day when the world will know.

‘What do you want to become when you grow up, Young Man?’
‘Sir, I was to become a big Smudgeler when I grow up.’
‘Goo…what?Sorry son, I didn’t catch your reply’
‘Sir, I was to become a big Smudgeler when I grow up.’
 ‘A Smudgeler!’
‘Yes, Sir’
The faces of teachers, looking at the baffled face of Angrez, went through a range of emotions, Surprise, Dumbstruck, Shocked, Angry, Refaced, Embarrassed, ‘What-did-he-say’ look, wait-till-I-get-my-hand-on- you’ Look.
Old Englishman asked around,’Can someone tell me what he wants to become? What the hell is a Smudgeler?” The faces of all teacher changed to ‘Could-you-repeat-the-question?’ look. Then an idea struck the Angreaz (but the teacher later claimed they all got the idea simultaneously). He walked the boy to the blackboard, handed him a chalk and asked him to right it down. The boy, shocked at their stupidity, confidently screeched away on the blackboar, in bold letter, the word –
S M U G G L E R.
Turning around he again spoke the word aloud in his mind: smuGG LER.

As he began to write each letter, some of them began to suspect but and then the word hit them. When the boy turned around with a ‘I-am-right.’ look (which the teachers read as ‘Now-you-know’ look) the full force of the words, each letter, hit them. It was the era of Haji Mastans whose great exploits were regularly  in those films made in Bombay. The boy wanted to be a smuggler. Principal wished the earth to swallow him whole or at least let him bury his face into it. He did not want to face the Englishman. At least he got the spelling right, no one can fault the  school for that. Angrez turned around and asked, ‘ Mr. Principal, now can you tell me what is this Smudgel that this gent here wants to smuggle into Kashmir?

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A cousin shared this funny story that apparently did take place for real.

Changus Sings Again: Recreating an old Kashmiri melody from year 1835.

The year must have been 1835. Godfrey Thomas Vigne, an English traveler in Kashmir,one of the first, was visiting a decaying old village called Changus( Shangus, as it is now called), a miles from Achibul (or Yech-i-bul, as he called it) in Anantnag district. He had heard that in the old glory days of Kashmir, this village was renowned for its colony of dancing girls. The singing, dancing and the beauty of  the nautch women from this village was renowned all over the valley. The most famous among these danseuses was a women named Lyli. Englishman’s local host, a nobleman named Samud Shah, spoke of her with signs of regret, and expressions of admiration. But Lyli was long dead and so it seemed was the village. There were still some dancing women in the village but none refined like the days of yore. Like most places in Kashmir, this village too had lost its muse. The dancing muse – Terpsichore, no longer lived in that village. Or so it seemed. While he was walking around in the village, he heard a woman sing a song whose opening notes reminded him of a certain old comic song  “Kitty Clover” by one Mister Liston and yet to him the song’s import seemed rather amorous. He was fascinated enough by the melody to have copied it into a sheet and then have it published in his book ‘Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo ‘ (1844) under the title ‘Kashmirian Dancing Girl’s Song’.

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When I first saw that small sheet of music given in G.T. Vigne’s ‘Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo ‘( see my post about nautch girls of Kashmir ), a strange thoughts occurred to me, ‘What song had G.T. Vigne heard that day? Wouldn’y it be nice to some how recreate that tune! Would it sound familiar?’.

With no knowledge of sheet music, I set about doing something about it.

(Sheet for Kashmirian Dancing Girl’s Song given in Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo)

After experimenting with a number of software, I settled with  a software called SharpEye2 that reads sheets from images and converts them to Midi format. The music sheet generated by the software isn’t perfect. Facility for editing the notes is provided but it isn’t very flexible. After tweaking the sheet, the end result looked something like this:

 It isn’t pefect but still good enough.
And here is the sound generated (MP3 converted from Midi format):




Don’t know about ‘Kitty Clover’ (couldn’t find anything on it) but the opening notes are certainly wonderful and it indeed sounds Kashmiri.
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Enjoy a variation on the song with images of Shalimar Bagh:

School Excursion to Shalimar Bagh

Every Friday Open.
Original Mughal Garden Plan didn’t include an Iron gate. Stupidly enough, nobody thought of it at that time. And these Royals were supposed to be master builders of gardens. The iron gate stands right over the stream making exit from the garden.
Queued. As Master and Madam confer. Children are all ear. Almost all of them.
We are in. It’s a Picnic.
Watch me make a splash! Don’t wet my shoes!
The kid just put his face right in front of my face, smiled and went, ‘‘Asalawalekum!’  The right thing to say is – Walaykumsalam.

As stood on the ancient terrace, a little girl walked unto the place where I stood, confident, she went, ‘Execuseme!’. I realized I was blocking the entry to the monument. The right thing to do is – walk aside.

The humble-almost embarrassed – source of all water in the great garden.

Alternate entry point. No entry fee. And it is fun. Again, stupidly enough, it was not included in the original garden plan by the great Mughals.