First dig. 1936 |
Megalithic Menhirs.Yanderhom Karewa, Burzahom.
2014 |
Story of the discovery for some other time.
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SearchKashmir turns 8.
in bits and pieces
First dig. 1936 |
Megalithic Menhirs.Yanderhom Karewa, Burzahom.
2014 |
Story of the discovery for some other time.
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SearchKashmir turns 8.
In November, I went back to look for it.
I found Harwan.
I took the right turn this time. I realized why most people miss it. The place is too hidden, you have to hike to the place. Most Pandits visiting are too old, can’t climb, have no old association with the place.
And older cousin of mine however did remember the quite little place near Chandipur where they would sometime go for excursion with Walden school.
Diaper Pebble Technique |
The lonely worker was carrying out repair for damage suffered by Stupa due to the flood of September.
I remembered that this high terrace was buried under debris due to cloudburst and flood of 1973 and finally cleared in 1978-80.
Coming in from some distance, I could hear the sound of men sitting somewhere inside an invisible security bunker.
The sun was setting, it was time for me to move.
I am convinced that when the place was conceived, the level of Dal Lake would have been higher. The site would have stood just next to the water body.
From Louise Weiss’s Cachemire (1955) |
In 1950s, you could just walk around Harwan and the now famous tiles could be seen strewn all around the place. Back them people hoped, it would be an open museum for the tiles.
One the way back, I again lost the way. I couldn’t figure out how to get back to the main road.
“hum wayti, maalya”
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In 1947, just when geographic borders of Kashmir were getting re-defined, a bunch of artists started on a journey that was to alter the borders of Indian art. Six young artists founded the Progressive Artists Group in Bombay. These were FN Souza, SH Raza, KH Ara, MF Husain, SK Bakre and HA Gade. Around same time three men in Kashmir were also going Progressive mentored by the artists from Bombay group. These were S.N. Butt, Triloke Kaul and P.N. Kachru. When SH Raza reached out to these artists in Kashmir in August 1948, the result was formation of ‘Progressive Artists Association’ in Srinagar in October. It’s first exhibition was held in May 1949 and by October that year the exhibition traveled out to Delhi. The two progressive groups continued to inspire each other for many years to come. Raza famously went on to explore the Tantric symbolism in his paintings inspired by Kashmir. In 1950s, Raza went on to mentor one of the best known progressive artists from Kashmir, G.R. Santosh who too worked on Tantric symbolism.
[can see the work of Bombay group here]
The post from 2011, giving the work of Kashmir Artist group from late 1940s:
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Earlier this year I got married. I married someone related to Triloke Kaul. Kashmiri marriage formalities require that the new couple eat-out with relatives of each other. A meeting with Triloke Kaul is what I looked most forward to. I wanted the complete story of the art movement in Kashmir.
And I had something special for him: images from March 1955 issue of Marg: A Magazine of the Arts (Heritage of Kashmir Special Issue) edited by Mulk Raj Anand. The issue carried some of his early works along with that of his colleagues.
In his room the TV was on Tetris mode. I think he plays. He doesn’t follow news much. Classical India Music plays, he records it and neatly arranges them by the Ragas.
We talked about the magazine, turns out he helped Mulk Raj Anand edit the particular issue, he even ghost wrote the introduction to the issue He identified the sketches done by him in the issue…most of the sketches of Kashmiri ornaments.
In the magazine, he saw one of his early work: Ajanta. It was done during his Baroda days. He doesn’t have it with him. I have promised to send a scan to him. He also asked for a work of S.N. Butt.
And about that iconic self-portrait. I was happy to see that he had a sense of humor. He indulged me when I suggested that he offer me a pose with the cigarette. He even suggested the proper angle. He told me that back in 1950s when that portrait was exhibited in Jehangir Art Gallery, a photographer did capture him against the painting holding onto a cigarette between the lips.
No, he doesn’t have most of his old work with him. In 1990, he lost most of his early work to conflict when he was forced to shift to Jammu like other Kashmiri Pandits.
Left: the deity from his ancestral village talked art. |
He talked art and history. How he mentored Santosh and how young Raza greatly influenced all of them. The names of the Kashmiri artists of earlier generation and the politics of the later years.
Here’s the audio of the conversation (primarily in Kashmiri):
History of Progressive Art in Kashmir with Triloke Kaul
video link
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Bismillahi mantrena nashantea Vijayeswara
बिस्मिल्लाही मंत्रेणा नाशंते विजयेशवरा
~ Strange tales from Rajatarangini
In Ain-e-Akbari it is mentioned that when Parihasapura was destroyed by Sikandar Butshikan (1389-1413) “a copper-tablet was discovered on which was inscribed in Sanskrit, that after the lapse of eleven hundred years one Sikandar, would destroy it, and gather for himself exceeding great chastisement”
A similar story was narrated to Aurel Stein by priests of Vijayeshwara temple. (Point to note is that both “prophecies” get the dates of destruction wrong) Aurel Stein in ‘Memoir On Maps Illustrating Ancient Geography Of Kashmir’ (1899), in a footnote gives us:
Ekasasasalam varsam Sikendaramahabalabismilla iti mantrena nasyante Vijayesvarah
After the lapse of 1100 years, Sikandar the Mighty
would utter “Bismillah” and destroy temple of Vijayeshwara
While on the subject, here’s another one.
Taj-i-shahi az sare Shahane Kashmir bara fated wa sardari an hama rabanagoisari nihad
The royal crown will fall from the heads of the kings of Kashmir, and their government will be overthrown
~ Maulavi Mohammad Sahib on death of Sultan Fateh Shah after a bracelet given by Shah Hamada to Sultan Qutb-ud-Din (1373-89) was buried with Sultan Fateh (1486–1495).
The reason for this post: Last month I was in Rajasthan, in Jaisalmer, at a tea shop I hired a local guide. After a lot of delightful but lunatic conversation, he claimed that he was a member of VHP. So all his theories about Jews also being Hindu suddenly made sense. During the conversation, he mentioned that a Muslim Sufi saint had predicted that the Rajputs would lose royal seats and that the foreigners would roam freely in their land.
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Pashmina Gabba embroidered by Smt. Sonmal Dhar.
Circa 1940s
Shared by her great granddaughter Anubha Kakroo
Khardungla 1953 From the book “Ladakh: My Journeys Up, Down & Across” by Pushker Nath Kaul (2016) |
September, 2015
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1866
2016.
1848 |
1870
Feb, 2016.
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From Louise Weiss’s Cachemire (1955).
Feb, 2016
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